Wildout's D-Series Motor Rebuild
03-12-2007, 09:41 AM
#1
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Wildout's D-Series Motor Rebuild
So it begins once again, this time I'm rebuilding my spare SI motor. Three reason's why I'm doing this. First the current CX motor burns too much oil for my liking. I no longer change oil, I just top it up with every gas fill up, yes it burns that much.
Second reason, I want to build a D-series motor, why you ask...just cuz.
Third, I have two d-series motors laying around in my garage so why not, also this motor will be seeing low boost at the end of summer. Aiming for around August/September. Once again I will be doing all the motor work myself and will have Graham at Canadian Cylinder Head do the machine work.
The machine work will consist of:
-hone cylinder walls
-micropolish crank
-valvejob
The parts I plan to replace regardless of condition are:
-all the gasket's, so I'll be purchasing a engine gasket kit.
-valve seals
-piston rings
-timing belt
-rod bearings, main bearings & thrust washers
-rod bolts
So far the only thing that has been done, is that the engine is remove from the car and the intake and exhaust manifold's have been removed. I will be taking pics along the way once again, but this time I will show everyone exactly how long it takes from start to finish.
Any questions, statements (smartasspho) or whatever just post. Anyone has any request for pictures of certain things just ask.
Pricing for the parts and pictures will be added later on tonight.
P.S. This motor will be done before Fuzzy's. :*****:
Second reason, I want to build a D-series motor, why you ask...just cuz.
Third, I have two d-series motors laying around in my garage so why not, also this motor will be seeing low boost at the end of summer. Aiming for around August/September. Once again I will be doing all the motor work myself and will have Graham at Canadian Cylinder Head do the machine work.The machine work will consist of:
-hone cylinder walls
-micropolish crank
-valvejob
The parts I plan to replace regardless of condition are:
-all the gasket's, so I'll be purchasing a engine gasket kit.
-valve seals
-piston rings
-timing belt
-rod bearings, main bearings & thrust washers
-rod bolts
So far the only thing that has been done, is that the engine is remove from the car and the intake and exhaust manifold's have been removed. I will be taking pics along the way once again, but this time I will show everyone exactly how long it takes from start to finish.
Any questions, statements (smartasspho) or whatever just post. Anyone has any request for pictures of certain things just ask.
Pricing for the parts and pictures will be added later on tonight.
P.S. This motor will be done before Fuzzy's. :*****:
03-12-2007, 10:14 AM
#6
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whoooooooooooo thas dirty! i member when a friend had a turbo D series thing would brake loose in 3rd gear............
haha be done b4 fuzzy wuzzy....
lol jamacian time. that still cant be any better then indian time. LOL.
haha be done b4 fuzzy wuzzy....
lol jamacian time. that still cant be any better then indian time. LOL.
03-12-2007, 12:05 PM
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are you gonna use the HX/CX exhaust manifold as the turbo manifold. It will save you $$$ all you need is a flange 
Only hard part is actually sourcing the part. I think the canadians only got the CX, but in the US they got the HX as well so their odds are double ours.
Th d16A6 is a strong motor, i've heard lots of stories about how strong they are for boost.
Or you can go Mini Me. SOHC VTEC D16y8 head on a D16A6... but that would take too much time and money.
Only hard part is actually sourcing the part. I think the canadians only got the CX, but in the US they got the HX as well so their odds are double ours.
Th d16A6 is a strong motor, i've heard lots of stories about how strong they are for boost.
Or you can go Mini Me. SOHC VTEC D16y8 head on a D16A6... but that would take too much time and money.
03-12-2007, 02:51 PM
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Of Course :laugh1:
LOL, there's no race. I'm gonna win. Another reason for this post is for fuzzy to get off his *** and finish the motor. Atleast this way I'll make him hurry up.
are you gonna use the HX/CX exhaust manifold as the turbo manifold. It will save you $$$ all you need is a flange
Only hard part is actually sourcing the part. I think the canadians only got the CX, but in the US they got the HX as well so their odds are double ours.
Th d16A6 is a strong motor, i've heard lots of stories about how strong they are for boost.
Or you can go Mini Me. SOHC VTEC D16y8 head on a D16A6... but that would take too much time and money.
Only hard part is actually sourcing the part. I think the canadians only got the CX, but in the US they got the HX as well so their odds are double ours.
Th d16A6 is a strong motor, i've heard lots of stories about how strong they are for boost.
Or you can go Mini Me. SOHC VTEC D16y8 head on a D16A6... but that would take too much time and money.
Last edited by WildoutWhiteGSR; 03-12-2007 at 02:54 PM.
03-12-2007, 02:57 PM
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03-12-2007, 02:57 PM
#13
aha, well im slammed already, and everything else is just being started now, i dont plan on actually having the car dairly driven til next year. Just a side project, but turbo and such should be done by summer. Then comes wheels, paint, accessories ect.
03-12-2007, 03:02 PM
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03-12-2007, 03:16 PM
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LOL
There's nothing on the car to sell, but my remote start and I'm not doing that.
What are the rules, I can't find them on the site. I have a lot of spare parts in my garage, am I allowed to use them?
There's nothing on the car to sell, but my remote start and I'm not doing that.
What are the rules, I can't find them on the site. I have a lot of spare parts in my garage, am I allowed to use them?
03-12-2007, 03:23 PM
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http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/cha...2007rules.html
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/cha...07scoring.html
I'll bring some back issues next time if you want ot read up on it some more.
DO IT!!!!
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/cha...07scoring.html
I'll bring some back issues next time if you want ot read up on it some more.
DO IT!!!!
03-12-2007, 03:31 PM
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03-13-2007, 01:16 AM
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How the garage looked before I started the tear down.
Spare CX motor
Tools and Parts Organizer I bought while on sale at Crappy Tire during the Christmas break.
Tear down begins around 9:30pm
Oil Pan Removed
Valve Cover Removed
Head Removed
4th Cylinder
3rd Cylinder
2nd Cylinder
First Cylinder
Head Upside Down, Showing the Valves
4th Cylinder
3rd Cylinder
2nd Cylinder
First Cylinder
Spare CX motor
Tools and Parts Organizer I bought while on sale at Crappy Tire during the Christmas break.
Tear down begins around 9:30pm
Oil Pan Removed
Valve Cover Removed
Head Removed
4th Cylinder
3rd Cylinder
2nd Cylinder
First Cylinder
Head Upside Down, Showing the Valves
4th Cylinder
3rd Cylinder
2nd Cylinder
First Cylinder
Last edited by WildoutWhiteGSR; 03-13-2007 at 01:57 AM.
03-13-2007, 01:31 AM
#24
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Oil Pickup Removed
Crank Girdle Removed
And then I saw it......SPUN BEARING!!!
I could cry....I hope the crank is ok and can be cleaned up with micropolish. I will only know once I send it out. I really don't feel like taking apart the CX motor as well for the crank, but if I have to I will.
The main and rod bearings. They look oh so bad.
Crank Girdle Removed
And then I saw it......SPUN BEARING!!!
I could cry....I hope the crank is ok and can be cleaned up with micropolish. I will only know once I send it out. I really don't feel like taking apart the CX motor as well for the crank, but if I have to I will.
The main and rod bearings. They look oh so bad.
03-13-2007, 01:56 AM
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Rod Caps
Pistons
Oil Pump & Rear Main Seal
Bare Block
How it looked about half way through. Roughly 2hrs of work.
Back to work, now onto disassembling the head
Cam Plate Removed
Rockers Removed
LMA's (Lost Motion Assembly) Removed
Cam Holder...LOL
Almost there, only the valve springs, retainers and valve keepers left.
Ever wondered what it looks like when people tell you that your valve seals are gone and that's the reason your burning oil. Well take a look. The rubber is suppose to be snug up against the valve stem with no gap, but in these to pics you can clearly see the gap.
The result is that the oil runs down the valve stem onto the valve. Just take a look, see how wet the valves are.
How the Exhaust valves look in comparison
Now take a look into the head, see how wet inside is from the leaky valve seals
Head all taken apart
How I kept everything organized
Next is a cleanup of all the parts, then onto the machine shop they go.
Pistons
Oil Pump & Rear Main Seal
Bare Block
How it looked about half way through. Roughly 2hrs of work.
Back to work, now onto disassembling the head
Cam Plate Removed
Rockers Removed
LMA's (Lost Motion Assembly) Removed
Cam Holder...LOL
Almost there, only the valve springs, retainers and valve keepers left.
Ever wondered what it looks like when people tell you that your valve seals are gone and that's the reason your burning oil. Well take a look. The rubber is suppose to be snug up against the valve stem with no gap, but in these to pics you can clearly see the gap.
The result is that the oil runs down the valve stem onto the valve. Just take a look, see how wet the valves are.
How the Exhaust valves look in comparison
Now take a look into the head, see how wet inside is from the leaky valve seals
Head all taken apart
How I kept everything organized
Next is a cleanup of all the parts, then onto the machine shop they go.
Last edited by WildoutWhiteGSR; 03-13-2007 at 02:04 AM.
03-13-2007, 05:32 AM
#26
There's plenty to do outside my room but I choose not to!
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Damn you! you're already ahead of me in my build. i'm waiting for my ARP hardware to show up at my door before i send my bottom end out to the machine shop. it's been almost 3 weeks. i should've got me one of those parts organizers too. i have a feeling Dave and I are gonna be hunting down alot of silly little parts.
03-14-2007, 02:51 AM
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that spun bearing looks like the one we pulled out of scotts old block. the rod bearings on cylinder 3 were stacked on top of one another. they were like tin foil.
03-15-2007, 06:26 PM
#34
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Sadly yes 84.5mm vs 90mm
Do it up Jay, it'll be faster than Fuzzy's 4 year build....
Yeah anytime. I didn't want to bug you with the young one being born recently, was just waiting to see to post on here or honda-tech.com as a sign that you have some spare time. Now that I know we can talk about finishing up my b-series project
Yeah anytime. I didn't want to bug you with the young one being born recently, was just waiting to see to post on here or honda-tech.com as a sign that you have some spare time. Now that I know we can talk about finishing up my b-series project
Last edited by WildoutWhiteGSR; 03-15-2007 at 06:29 PM.
03-15-2007, 07:11 PM
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03-15-2007, 09:52 PM
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hehe... Melanie keeps a pretty close eye on him :P
03-16-2007, 12:35 AM
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$1200 over 6 months
Machine Work $400
Parts $400
Random ---- $400
03-20-2007, 01:58 AM
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Actually I just redid the budget and it's gonna be under $600 easily.
Anyways the block, head and new crank without a spun bearing has been sent off to the machine shop. Updates should come within 2 weeks.
Anyways the block, head and new crank without a spun bearing has been sent off to the machine shop. Updates should come within 2 weeks.
03-20-2007, 06:35 AM
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will this engine be up and running before fuzzy's? :laugh1: