overheating at idle
#1
overheating at idle
Hello all,
I have a 96 Integra and it seems to be overheating at idle. The temp. guage is at the normal position while driving, but as soon as I hit a traffic light, or let the car idle, the temp guage starts increasing towards the H mark. Then as soon as i start driving again, or hold the revs, the gauge goes down to the normal reading. My radiator fan, and heating seems to be working perfectly.
Any input would be appreciated.
I have a 96 Integra and it seems to be overheating at idle. The temp. guage is at the normal position while driving, but as soon as I hit a traffic light, or let the car idle, the temp guage starts increasing towards the H mark. Then as soon as i start driving again, or hold the revs, the gauge goes down to the normal reading. My radiator fan, and heating seems to be working perfectly.
Any input would be appreciated.
#2
I would check the rad hoses see if there are any visible cracks or rips, i would also think could be the termostat but you are saying you are still getting heat coming into the car that seems noramal.
#5
There's plenty to do outside my room but I choose not to!
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could be a number of things
rad fan fuse check that
rad fan switch: find your rad fan switch most likely on the thermostat housing and jump the 2 wires to see if the fan turn on (key must be in the on position). if it does then it'll be the switch. if not, put 12v directly to the fan and see if it turns on.
rad fan fuse check that
rad fan switch: find your rad fan switch most likely on the thermostat housing and jump the 2 wires to see if the fan turn on (key must be in the on position). if it does then it'll be the switch. if not, put 12v directly to the fan and see if it turns on.
#12
no i am not tamil, that is actually my name.
I topped up my coolant in the radiator and the car ran fine for a couple of days, but today again it started overheating at idle, so i added more coolant to the rad, and it seems to be running fine again. but i dont know whats going on.
i dont seem to have a leak, rad fans work, heating works.
I topped up my coolant in the radiator and the car ran fine for a couple of days, but today again it started overheating at idle, so i added more coolant to the rad, and it seems to be running fine again. but i dont know whats going on.
i dont seem to have a leak, rad fans work, heating works.
#14
hmm strange you must be loosing coolant some how.. maybe theres air blocked in the system run the car with the rad cap open for a few mins to see if you could get air out
also theres the bleeder valve but that dosnt usually get all the air out
how much did you have to add?
also theres the bleeder valve but that dosnt usually get all the air out
how much did you have to add?
#16
strange that you would would have to add some more... it does sound like a leak but you said there is no where for it too leak, it could be that there is air in the lines thats stopping some of the coolant.
#17
i added about a 1/4 of those big coolant jugs.
and it seems to be running fine as of now..
i think i will change my thermostat and flush the whole system this weekend.
my friend told me my water pump might be going.. are these the symptoms?
and it seems to be running fine as of now..
i think i will change my thermostat and flush the whole system this weekend.
my friend told me my water pump might be going.. are these the symptoms?
#20
Nope, i dont notice any white smoke coming out from the exhaust.
Today, i checked my oil dipstick and i noticed barely any oil, i got an oil change done from Wal-Mart less than 4000kms ago. The only reason i got it done from them was they do a full synthetic for 59 bucks plus tax. Mobil1 5w30 is $42 as it is, and i didn't want to do it in the cold, so I just got them to do it. The mechanic put the leftover oil jug in my trunk, and there was about half a jug in there. So I just topped up my oil.
maybe my engine was overheating cuz of no oil? i dont know much about this stuff
but it seems to be driving perfectly after the top ups
Today, i checked my oil dipstick and i noticed barely any oil, i got an oil change done from Wal-Mart less than 4000kms ago. The only reason i got it done from them was they do a full synthetic for 59 bucks plus tax. Mobil1 5w30 is $42 as it is, and i didn't want to do it in the cold, so I just got them to do it. The mechanic put the leftover oil jug in my trunk, and there was about half a jug in there. So I just topped up my oil.
maybe my engine was overheating cuz of no oil? i dont know much about this stuff
but it seems to be driving perfectly after the top ups
#24
K new development. I think my car is leaking something.
I moved my car from my driveway and there seems to be leak spots from where it was parked. I'm not sure what it is though. Also, at rare occasions, when I start my car, it gurgles as if its low on fuel and it stalls. Then i have to start again and rev a bit, and then it idles normally.
I moved my car from my driveway and there seems to be leak spots from where it was parked. I'm not sure what it is though. Also, at rare occasions, when I start my car, it gurgles as if its low on fuel and it stalls. Then i have to start again and rev a bit, and then it idles normally.
#26
yeah it is green. I think my radiator is going. It's not holding coolant for more than a couple hours and the car starts overheating after. Vida, i think i have the same problem as u did. How much did u pay for ur rad, and how hard is it to install?
#27
They can go from anywhere from 130-300. 300 if you want to buy a fancy aluminum Mishimoto Rad.
I got mine for 200 at part source, you may also need a new rad cap cuse the one that goes on your rad may be too big for the new rad
As for the install, its pretty simple. You can figure it out once you look at the rad itself. Thats what I did pretty much
Drain the rad, take off the upper rad hose from the rad.
Take out all the 10 mm bolts holding on to the rad and fans at the top. Unplug the fans from their respective harness, take out the fans. take off the lower rad hose from the bottom of the rad. And then the 2 tranny lines
, and bam. Rad is out. Theres 2 "bushings" at the bottom of the old rad make sure the new rad has them on when you put the new rad in the car. Its a stay to hold on at the bottom.
. For the tranny lines watch it, if you let it drop tranny fluid will go. I ziptied them on while I did my work so no tranny fluid was spilled.
Try it out man. isnt too hard and its fun to learn something, lool.
I got mine for 200 at part source, you may also need a new rad cap cuse the one that goes on your rad may be too big for the new rad
As for the install, its pretty simple. You can figure it out once you look at the rad itself. Thats what I did pretty much
Drain the rad, take off the upper rad hose from the rad.
Take out all the 10 mm bolts holding on to the rad and fans at the top. Unplug the fans from their respective harness, take out the fans. take off the lower rad hose from the bottom of the rad. And then the 2 tranny lines
, and bam. Rad is out. Theres 2 "bushings" at the bottom of the old rad make sure the new rad has them on when you put the new rad in the car. Its a stay to hold on at the bottom.
. For the tranny lines watch it, if you let it drop tranny fluid will go. I ziptied them on while I did my work so no tranny fluid was spilled.
Try it out man. isnt too hard and its fun to learn something, lool.
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