Smartass pHO

Who wants to drive the Miata this time at COMP?

nightstick

nice set up. Carillo Rods and Ferrea VT? somebody is ballin' heavy. the only thing i don't like about the set up are the cams. if you are looking for big peak numbers, you won't get them from P1's and, they are not a mild mannered cam. i'm a bit under 200whp thru the cat with P1's and they are too much for my aging self. P1's should use no less than 12.0/1 c.r. to work well, with the obvious supporting mods. i can tell you one thing, you took ur ---- to the best machinist out there. GB knows it. trust me. i think Blox b's would have been a better choice, but, P1's are still decent. your low-midrange will be monsterous, but, above 6K Jun3, Blox b/S2S2, BC 4, M22x, Toda C will make more uptop on your particular setup. either way, it looks great. g/l with your goals. keep in mind, an honest 200whp (dynojet) out of a 1.8L is in no way easy. regardless of what you see. many of the bloated 210-220whp graphs from the u.s are hub readings (dynopacks). what header are you going to use?

on a side note, BC 4 > S2 P1....day and night.

nightstick

on a 1.8L, BC 3+, S2S2, S2S1 will produce a broader powerband the S2P1's on 95% of the set ups on the road today. lastly, Toad D, Jun 4's, BC 5 & 6, some of Rocket and Crower cams are as big or bigger than S2P2 & P3. advertised duration is misleading, as is lift and duration in general. more dosn't mean ----. S2S2's Intake cam actually measures 257 degrees@1mm. Intake open 22 BTDC, close 55 ABDC, 106.5 degrees lobe center. when calculated, the actual duration of the cam is 257, not the 266 advertised duration. and the lift is 12.1mm when mic'd. not the advertised 12.3mm. i'm going off of specs i got a few years ago, but its something like that. lastly, as much as people want to believe Blox b/S2S2 are the same as Jun 3's..this is untrue. the most ignored and unknown fact about vtec cam design is ramp speed/flank angle of the lobes. and i'll tell you from now, i know for a fact that Jun 3 are not the same as the b's and s2's. they are close, but, different. i just find it funny how, at the end of the day, Jun 3 and Toda C (C2 now) still make some of the best power from 6-9K. the design is about a decade old and all that cam manufacturers are doing is working off of those 2 profiles. more the Jun than the Toda's, but, whatever. what i'm trying to say is overcamming exists. and, on a 1.8L, you don't need a huge cam to make power, you need a dope ***, near perfect combo of parts.

Blue Dragon

^^ And you are?

Greco

Someone whos knows what the hell he is talking about or a really really good horse-*******....

WildoutWhiteGSR

Word, I wasn't going based upon advertised specs. The thing with this site is most don't give a damn about the exact specs and how it works, they just want to get a general idea of what the outcome would be and how it compares to other cams/parts out there.

The thing I disagree about in your post, is the fact that skunk 2 pro 1's would make less power than the buddy clubs spec 3's. We both know it depends on the other supporting parts they have installed. In the end though, the skunk 2 pro 1's would kill the buddy clubs spec 3's with the proper supportive mods.

This is so true, but I've noticed no one ever listens. They read it, but it doesn't sink in.

plzbeleiveit

Here ya Go.

Reza

that guy knows his ----, met him once and seems to be very informative. and he prolly has the fastest allmotor gen2 in toronto.

WildoutWhiteGSR

That graph is so inaccurate it's not even funny.

Look Here http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1135465

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1141681

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1338293



Doug any progress pics?

Baby NSX

This thread has come along way since I left for the weekend…

I agree whole heartedly about what has been posted so far. My selection of parts (including cams) comes from a lot of research and recommendations from Gord Bush himself as well as other qualified opinions. As you can clearly see I didn’t let costs factor heavily into my decisions…

Peak numbers do not mean much to me as this engine is being built for a track day car. A strong mid range will be much more useful for me.

I trust Gord suggested the Pro1 cams perhaps due to how he feels you can make the head work with them, and knowing my objectives with the build. There are likely a dozen cams I could have chosen for this build, each with their own strengths and weaknesses.

I’ve spoken at length to Skunk2 about cam selection and they assure me that I am not over caming the engine; in fact they suggested Pro2s would have made even more power. I opted for the Pro1 cams simply to put less stress on the valve train (my engine will spend a considerable amount of time above 7k RPM).

Nightstick,
I’m likely going to be running a full race SMSP header with this engine…