T2

Hey i have a turbo kit for my auto integra. I need some help. Right now i have:

TD05H Turbo with mitsubishi wastgate

B-Series Manifold

OBD 1 Map Sensor

Greedy 550 fuel injectors

BEGI Fuel pressure riser

Turboxs BlowOff valve

Auto Meter Phantom Boost Gauge & Air/Fuel Gauge (Both White Face)

Intercooler

Pipping , K/N air filter, o2 sensor, Down Pipe, Oil Lines.

Is their anything missing i need to get for it to be complete.My car is auto i just need to know what kinda FMU or management system out their i can use since i'm fairly new to all of this. What would u guys reccomend and the price range it's going to cost me. Also what shops would be good to get it installed and tuned at the same time for a decent price. Thanks in advance.

boost obsessed

You'll need a adapter plate for the manifold and turbo flange, bigger fuel pump (walbro 190lph or 255lph) aprox. 180-200 bucks, no need for the obd 1 map sensor just get check valves, for fuel management get a s-afc or get a obd 1 ecu and a obd2 - obd1 conversion harness and get it tuned on the dyno for like $400, if you do it like this you wont even need check valves, upgrade your exhaust to atleast 2.5" with no catalytic converter. Those injectors are way too big for your application that turbo is very tiny, dont get me wrong but those are very responsive but they die out top end, is it a 18g? The injectors are going to be hard to tune because of the turbo size, those inj. are good for about almost 400 hp.

Well it all depends on how much boost you want to run, if you are a ls you should be able to safeley run 12-13 pounds on that turbo because it doesent flow as much as a bigger one.

If you need more in dept detalis or have any questions feel free to pm me

Juka

The OBD of the MAP sensor shouldn't matter.
Yes 550 are large. For reference, I have 440s on my teo4h.
Put that $400 towards your own wideband o2 sensor & controller, chip burner, and street tune the damn thing yourself (if you're handy and willing to learn a bunch).

See uberdata (free tuning software, with datalogging capability).

boost obsessed

Uberdata has too many bugs, if you are going to go that route try to use CROME they also have a free software, Also if you're not familiar with turbos and tuning go to some one that knows what they are doing, tuning is not just about getting a 12.1-12.3 afr throught out the rpm band, it involves ignition timing, fuel pressure, and many other things. If it were that easy everybody would street tune.
Trust me theres a big difference between a street tuned car and a dyno tuned car, been there done that.
And for MAP sensors, honda ones are good for 11.2 psi of boost so dont worry and it doesn't matter about obd1 or obd2

Juka

Crome doesn't have a free version with datalogging though.
Yes, it's much more than getting the fuel map correct, hence, "street tune the damn thing yourself (if you're handy and willing to learn a bunch)".

And the real-life scenario (street tuning), if done correctly
1. is cheaper,
2. is more accurate than the "extra-controlled environment" of a dynonometer bay.
3. can be done anytime you like (again and again, after changing engine or exhaust components, etc etc) instead of forking out hundreds to a tuner each time.
4. gives you a sense of true "Tuner Pride".

Hell, do both... street tune, then dyno & datalog yourself or use a romulator or ostrich, then street tune again. BUT ONLY PAY FOR THE DYNO TIME, NOT SOMEBODY's TIME.

Read read read.

boost obsessed

^^ thats true about paying for dyno time, thats what I did, I used hondata s200.
Also the controlled enviornment is also true, the air intake temps make a big difference from street to dyno, for example if you tuned on a hot day like today and went out for a pass in oct. weather you would most likely be running too rich.
Personally I use a wideband for the readings and romulator and datalogging to make corrections or just to see whats going on, I hardley have make changes but still it's nice to have just to take a touch of fuel out once in a while for that little extra edge.
I think it all depends on cash, if you want proper stuff go full standalone like greddy or aem. It's all up to you, it depends where you want to go with this project, if you want it just for that little extra speed do it yourself like JUKA suggested, if you are serious and want to go all out start by building the motor then talk about boost.
The only downfall to street tune is where and when are you going to do it

96vtec

Juka Tuna - Resident Self Help Specialist

Smartass pHO

96vtec - Resident Self Love Specialist

Juka

Are you trying to be-little me, Mr. Obsessed?

I AM serious.
My motor IS built.
I am NOT going for that "little extra speed".
Doubling stock horse power is far from "little extra speed".

Juka

Smartass - Resident

96vtec

Good one... got me laughin Ry.

boost obsessed

Wasn't telling you I was asking the originator of the post, and thats very good for you to double the hp. BTW what are you putting down??

Juka

Started with crappy LS powa ~125whp.
Low compression pistons dyno'd 190whp @ 8.7psi (FMU garbage management).
Currently estimating 210whp @ 11psi (Uberdata).
Goal is 240whp @ 14.5 psi. 250 would be a bonus.

It's small potatoes, compared to the 400+ crowd, but it's all relative. A 100% gain in torque & power will make me proud. Especially self-tuned.

And yourself?

Bob

too high, he has an automatic.

If you go anything above 200, even with a tranny cooler it will begin to slip big time.

Don't bother with a bigger pump, just get something to map your fuel. Hondata 2b (you can't go to the s### series, they aren't made for autos) is an option, so is a GReddy E-manage, or uber, don't go anything higher. You'll be wasting your $$

boost obsessed

^ my buddys ls auto is putting down around 260whp and his tranny is just fine for the past 3 yrs.

JUKA 400+ is nice to have but traction is just another story, trust me