pulley question for JRSC B18C5
08-07-2008, 11:22 AM
#1
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pulley question for JRSC B18C5
So i bought this JRSC kit, and am wondering what pulleys i should use for my B18C5.
The big rusty lookin one is a B20 crank pully. The guy i bought it off said that if i install this b20 crank pully, it will up the boost at the S/C to 11psi.
Is this the way it works?
The small double belt one I THINK (please correct me if im wrong) is a underdrive alternator pulley.
Does the stock alternator pulley have 2 slots for belts? or just one.
(I assume just one cuz what the hell else would it run if theres no S/C...)
The one in the pic here has 2, one for the alt, and one for the S/C.
JW if i need to switch my stocker to this one.
Id go look at my civic, but its stored quite a drive away, (its just an event car, not a street car) and would rather just ask than drive 25 minutes each way just to look at the engine for 5 seconds.
Your help is much appreciated!
The big rusty lookin one is a B20 crank pully. The guy i bought it off said that if i install this b20 crank pully, it will up the boost at the S/C to 11psi.
Is this the way it works?
The small double belt one I THINK (please correct me if im wrong) is a underdrive alternator pulley.
Does the stock alternator pulley have 2 slots for belts? or just one.
(I assume just one cuz what the hell else would it run if theres no S/C...)
The one in the pic here has 2, one for the alt, and one for the S/C.
JW if i need to switch my stocker to this one.
Id go look at my civic, but its stored quite a drive away, (its just an event car, not a street car) and would rather just ask than drive 25 minutes each way just to look at the engine for 5 seconds.
Your help is much appreciated!
08-07-2008, 02:40 PM
#2
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yes, the B20 pully is bigger so it spins the SC faster creating more boost. the B20 pully brings boost to about 10-11 psi. the stock alt. pully only has a slot for one belt, hence why you have to use the one with two belts from jacksonracing to spin the charger.
a good idea would be to get rid of that FMU and get some solid tuning done with chrome or neptune.
oh and moaR pics of said nomnomnom chick.
a good idea would be to get rid of that FMU and get some solid tuning done with chrome or neptune.
oh and moaR pics of said nomnomnom chick.
08-07-2008, 03:25 PM
#4
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does FMU mean "fuel management unit", in this case my JR boost controller?
Yes I plan on getting it tuned with chrome or neptune, il prolly end up with chrome.
Im new to the boost side of things, If i get it tuned with chrome, i dont need the JR boost controller? so like i need either or not both? or was that what u were talking about in the first place lol...
Thanks for the help fuzz
08-07-2008, 06:56 PM
#6
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you will however have to move the MAP sensor from the throttle body, to the manifold. Since its a supercharger and boost isn't being made until the IM/supercharger if the MAP sensor is on the throttle body it won't see any boost, thus not deliver the right amount of fuel or retard the ignition timing (which is VERY important).
I'd recommend Neptune over crome for sure. Cromes lack of complete ignition timing control can get you into trouble on a supercharged car. This is b/c with supercharged cars the IAT (intake air temperature) is very very high, like 200 degrees F high. Now crome does have an IAT compensation for the fuel, but funky ---- happens to the ignition timing (usually adds timing in) as the IAT's increase, this can make bad ---- happen real fast.
With Neptune you can disable ignition adjustments (the ecu adds 6-8 degrees under certain conditions) to have complete control over the ignition timing under ALL conditions. Not to mention if you don't disable the ignition adjustments at least Neptune controls the ignition timing properly as the IAT's change, you can even set it up so that the ecu will pull timing as the IAT's get really high...this will make sure things are nice and safe and reliable.
Not to mention all of the other reasons why Neptune is a thousand times better than crome. If non of this makes sense, at least take into consideration that someone who tunes cars for a living is telling you NOT to use crome for reasons that will help you enjoy your car more.
That kit with the b20 pulley will run about 10.5psi. I tuned a JRSC'd GSR on Neptune with the b20 pulley just a few months ago and thats how much boost it made. Made like 5psi instantly even at 2000rpms, makes for a really fun street car. The only problem is the super high IATs and how quickly everything gets heatsoaked. Hot air is less dense, which makes less power.
I'd recommend Neptune over crome for sure. Cromes lack of complete ignition timing control can get you into trouble on a supercharged car. This is b/c with supercharged cars the IAT (intake air temperature) is very very high, like 200 degrees F high. Now crome does have an IAT compensation for the fuel, but funky ---- happens to the ignition timing (usually adds timing in) as the IAT's increase, this can make bad ---- happen real fast.
With Neptune you can disable ignition adjustments (the ecu adds 6-8 degrees under certain conditions) to have complete control over the ignition timing under ALL conditions. Not to mention if you don't disable the ignition adjustments at least Neptune controls the ignition timing properly as the IAT's change, you can even set it up so that the ecu will pull timing as the IAT's get really high...this will make sure things are nice and safe and reliable.
Not to mention all of the other reasons why Neptune is a thousand times better than crome. If non of this makes sense, at least take into consideration that someone who tunes cars for a living is telling you NOT to use crome for reasons that will help you enjoy your car more.
That kit with the b20 pulley will run about 10.5psi. I tuned a JRSC'd GSR on Neptune with the b20 pulley just a few months ago and thats how much boost it made. Made like 5psi instantly even at 2000rpms, makes for a really fun street car. The only problem is the super high IATs and how quickly everything gets heatsoaked. Hot air is less dense, which makes less power.
08-08-2008, 07:08 AM
#7
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That kit with the b20 pulley will run about 10.5psi. I tuned a JRSC'd GSR on Neptune with the b20 pulley just a few months ago and thats how much boost it made. Made like 5psi instantly even at 2000rpms, makes for a really fun street car. The only problem is the super high IATs and how quickly everything gets heatsoaked. Hot air is less dense, which makes less power.
My compression is either 10.6:1 or 11:1. right now its at 180whp 131 tq.
I have a DC ceramic 4-2-1 header, gutted type r exhaust.
with the methanol injection, what do u think my numbers would be around?
08-08-2008, 11:02 PM
#11
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my turbo b16 is almost 11.5:1 CR and its been boosted for 1.5 years and I daily drive it year round.
I don't know how much that JRSC'd GSR made b/c we haven't dyno tuned it yet, he wants to go to the dyno, i'm pretty much just waiting for him to call me to book some time.
I don't know how much that JRSC'd GSR made b/c we haven't dyno tuned it yet, he wants to go to the dyno, i'm pretty much just waiting for him to call me to book some time.
08-09-2008, 11:06 AM
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08-11-2008, 07:03 AM
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I was thinking that instead of using the B20 crank pulley to get the 11psi (which in my case I wouldn’t be able to use most of the power 11psi should deliver because of my 11:1 compression), would it be better to use my stock pulley to keep it at lower boost, and get the most out of that boost level?
using stock pulley would be what 6-8 psi?
and are the 370cc RC high impedence Injectors i have enough? or would 440cc be recommended?
using stock pulley would be what 6-8 psi?
and are the 370cc RC high impedence Injectors i have enough? or would 440cc be recommended?
08-11-2008, 11:15 AM
#16
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guy i bought it off of was using teh 370's but bigger doesnt hurt. i think 6lbs is the lowest boost level then 8 and 10.5 anything more the blower needs 2 b ported and rebuilt with stronger internals
Last edited by blown90b16teg@11psi; 08-11-2008 at 11:18 AM.
08-12-2008, 03:54 PM
#18
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the stock one is fine for max 11psi.
You need a chipped ecu and a tune.
If you want a different MAP sensor i'd use a Motorolla 2.5bar (its good for 23psi), but you will HAVE to have it setup in the tuning software for whatever MAP sensor you use *(different MAP's have different voltage scales), otherwise the car prolly won't start, if it does it'll run like poop....hot messy poop.
You need a chipped ecu and a tune.
If you want a different MAP sensor i'd use a Motorolla 2.5bar (its good for 23psi), but you will HAVE to have it setup in the tuning software for whatever MAP sensor you use *(different MAP's have different voltage scales), otherwise the car prolly won't start, if it does it'll run like poop....hot messy poop.
08-13-2008, 07:11 AM
#19
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Is this the motorola here? should i pick this up? for less than 45 bucks shipped it seems pretty cheap...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Xenoc...QQcmdZViewItem
am i better off using the stock crank pulley and keeping it on low boost, instead of using the B20 crank pulley to get the 11psi (which in my case I wouldn’t be able to use most of the power 11psi should deliver because of my 11:1 compression)
or do u think i could put more power down with the extra boost?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Xenoc...QQcmdZViewItem
am i better off using the stock crank pulley and keeping it on low boost, instead of using the B20 crank pulley to get the 11psi (which in my case I wouldn’t be able to use most of the power 11psi should deliver because of my 11:1 compression)
or do u think i could put more power down with the extra boost?
08-14-2008, 11:23 AM
#21
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id use the b20 crank pully if ur goinna go for 8psi why not 10.5 u already have the water injection 2 cool the charge down. @ 11psi u can still drive it as it was 8si but u cant drive 8psi like u were @ 10.5. id want the power if ur goinna track it its as simple as a pully adn in teh end the car will b faster with more hp and torque
08-14-2008, 11:32 AM
#22
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id use the b20 crank pully if ur goinna go for 8psi why not 10.5 u already have the water injection 2 cool the charge down. @ 11psi u can still drive it as it was 8si but u cant drive 8psi like u were @ 10.5. id want the power if ur goinna track it its as simple as a pully adn in teh end the car will b faster with more hp and torque
screw the b20 crank pulley, im gonna fab up my own pulley to put me at a jaw dropping 35 psi, with stage 5 cams so "the bitch will rev out to 13 grand" hahahahah
nah im jk... B20 crank pulley it is
Last edited by bluewater87; 08-14-2008 at 11:34 AM.
08-14-2008, 01:12 PM
#23
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you'll only put a rod through the block if you're making like 400+whp on the stock internals.
You're more likely to melt a piston or break the ring-lands off the piston(s) with a boosted honda.....especially if you run out of meth/water during a pull.
You're more likely to melt a piston or break the ring-lands off the piston(s) with a boosted honda.....especially if you run out of meth/water during a pull.
08-18-2008, 07:05 AM
#24
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Anybody know the diameter of the B20 crank pulley where the belt spins around?
The crank pulley i have on my b18c5 now is about 5 5/8" in diameter where the belt spins. It is different than stock as it has no accessory pulleys for a/c and PS, and therefore is MUCH lighter.
The "B20" crank pulley i got with my JRSC kit only has a diameter of 5 3/4" where the belt spins, and has both the a/c and PS drives on it.
This 1/8" difference can't make that much difference in boost can it?
So does anybody know the diameter of the B18C5 and the B20 crank pulley where the belt spins around?
either the pulley i have on now is bigger/lighter than stock (i dont know why bigger would be better on a N/A), or the supposed B20 crank pulley i got with the kit isnt what i was told it was.
The crank pulley i have on my b18c5 now is about 5 5/8" in diameter where the belt spins. It is different than stock as it has no accessory pulleys for a/c and PS, and therefore is MUCH lighter.
The "B20" crank pulley i got with my JRSC kit only has a diameter of 5 3/4" where the belt spins, and has both the a/c and PS drives on it.
This 1/8" difference can't make that much difference in boost can it?
So does anybody know the diameter of the B18C5 and the B20 crank pulley where the belt spins around?
either the pulley i have on now is bigger/lighter than stock (i dont know why bigger would be better on a N/A), or the supposed B20 crank pulley i got with the kit isnt what i was told it was.
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