How to properly weight reduct integra
#1
There's plenty to do outside my room but I choose not to!
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How to properly weight reduct integra
Ive looked on google, but cannot find any for a DA.
If you guys can just shoot off a bunch of stuff I can take off, it would be great.
Thanks so much
If you guys can just shoot off a bunch of stuff I can take off, it would be great.
Thanks so much
#2
Most common but pricey weight reduction is changing parts and panels for carbon fiber.
Otherwise, you can consider gutting the rear, removing paneling, carpets, spare tire and hardware, etc.
Also consider, if you have money to spend on this, lighter wheels. There are wheels out there that are each up to 10 pounds lighter than regular ones.
Hope this helps
Otherwise, you can consider gutting the rear, removing paneling, carpets, spare tire and hardware, etc.
Also consider, if you have money to spend on this, lighter wheels. There are wheels out there that are each up to 10 pounds lighter than regular ones.
Hope this helps
#3
There's plenty to do outside my room but I choose not to!
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I already gutted the rear.
I want this to be a track car, because i am turbo'ing it. But i also need it as a daily driver. So i cannot take out any of the stuff i really need.
I wonder if I will pass safety if i gut the skeleton in the trunk on the quarter pannels and weld a roll cage.
I want this to be a track car, because i am turbo'ing it. But i also need it as a daily driver. So i cannot take out any of the stuff i really need.
I wonder if I will pass safety if i gut the skeleton in the trunk on the quarter pannels and weld a roll cage.
#4
So then I suppose that leaves carbon parts, lighter wheels, and removing the spare tire if you haven't already.
It's astounding what kind of weight difference lighter wheels can have, I found a chart showing most popular wheels and their weights, I'll see if I can find it and post it up here.
EDIT - here it is, found it http://www.wheelweights.net/
It's astounding what kind of weight difference lighter wheels can have, I found a chart showing most popular wheels and their weights, I'll see if I can find it and post it up here.
EDIT - here it is, found it http://www.wheelweights.net/
#5
There's plenty to do outside my room but I choose not to!
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sweet. Wheels will be soon. Cant afford a good set right now. Im just focused on the interior. taking ---- out and making it look bare. I glued suede onto my trunk when i gutted it. I kinda dont like it. I wanna go for the black spray paint.
#7
There's plenty to do outside my room but I choose not to!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: 43°04′48″N-79°04′16″
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My DA wont be the nicest one at the meet lol. I only finished half of the cars body. From the door to the front bumper is mint. then the back isnt done. You can still see the scratch marks from the sand paper. I said, ---- it. Id rather spend a few hundred bucks on preformance then body.
If i need help, ill let u know. Also if u ever need suspension done, let me know. I just got a whole wack of tools, so im set to lower cars now. Its a "business" i used to do when i lived in brampton
If i need help, ill let u know. Also if u ever need suspension done, let me know. I just got a whole wack of tools, so im set to lower cars now. Its a "business" i used to do when i lived in brampton
#13
There's plenty to do outside my room but I choose not to!
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This is from team integra
entire A/C sysem: 46.5lbs
cruise control actuator: 3.5lbs
metal panel in glovebox door: 2lbs
hatch interior (except anything visible from inside the cabin): 9.5lbs
intake resonator (cut off from downward tube): 4lbs
spare tire, jack, tools: 29.5lbs
front tow hooks: 1lb
tar from trunk and some below passenger's seat: 7lbs
wiper fluid bottle + assembly (almost full): 5lbs
power steering system: 17lbs
passenger's airbag: 8lbs
moonroof sliding cover: 1.5lbs
rear seatbelts: 5lbs
exhaust heatshields(all): 5lbs
driver's airbag and wiring: 3lbs
drivers kneeplates: 3lbs
front passenger's seat: 34.5lbs (leaving in, but just checked)
armrest replaced with jdm itr eliminator: 2lbs net (3lbs minus <1lb)
entire abs system (lines, wiring, etc): 28lbs
rear windshield wiper: 3lbs
odyssey pc680t: stock29lbs-odyssey14lbs: 15lbs net
97+ rear underseat bars: 18lbs (6lbs each)*info on the bottom of page 6*
intake manifold support bracket: 3lbs
antenna motor: 2lbs
entire A/C sysem: 46.5lbs
cruise control actuator: 3.5lbs
metal panel in glovebox door: 2lbs
hatch interior (except anything visible from inside the cabin): 9.5lbs
intake resonator (cut off from downward tube): 4lbs
spare tire, jack, tools: 29.5lbs
front tow hooks: 1lb
tar from trunk and some below passenger's seat: 7lbs
wiper fluid bottle + assembly (almost full): 5lbs
power steering system: 17lbs
passenger's airbag: 8lbs
moonroof sliding cover: 1.5lbs
rear seatbelts: 5lbs
exhaust heatshields(all): 5lbs
driver's airbag and wiring: 3lbs
drivers kneeplates: 3lbs
front passenger's seat: 34.5lbs (leaving in, but just checked)
armrest replaced with jdm itr eliminator: 2lbs net (3lbs minus <1lb)
entire abs system (lines, wiring, etc): 28lbs
rear windshield wiper: 3lbs
odyssey pc680t: stock29lbs-odyssey14lbs: 15lbs net
97+ rear underseat bars: 18lbs (6lbs each)*info on the bottom of page 6*
intake manifold support bracket: 3lbs
antenna motor: 2lbs
#19
My DA doesnt have A\C or powersteering anymore, first car i have ever drivin without it and havent had a problem, as spike said, just a dead stop is a little bit of a pain, like backing out of a small space in a parking lot
#21
There's plenty to do outside my room but I choose not to!
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haha. I had no power steering before. Try parallel parking.
So i just realized, i have to get my car inspected when i get insurance. So everything i took out, is going back in. jeeze louissssseeee
So i just realized, i have to get my car inspected when i get insurance. So everything i took out, is going back in. jeeze louissssseeee
#23
i didnt have ps in my ef. and it was a bit different at first, but you either get stronger/use to it. i liked it more than power actually. there is no play in the wheel. with old steering racks that are power, you can have 'dead spots" and i dont like that. non power always just seemed more responsive so to speak.
#24
Great data above for weight reduction.
I have gone to the extreme once to reduce weight on a G1.
Stock my G1 was about 2350lbs.
Since it was for race only then I went nuts removing stuff. I weighed it all as well. Most surprising was the sound deadening material. This is on the floors inside from rear to the front firewall. As well the G1's (maybe all tegs) had a thick fire resistant materialon the firewall. That alone was 20lbs. The total was about 35 with the stuff from the floor.
some cars also have this material in the doors. Remove it all its adds up!
I was able to get my teg to about 1850 with 110lbs of cage!!
I made my car manual steering as well and had the drive pulley shaved down.
Ther was no ABS on this car.
I went as far as removing most of the underhood bracing. (Bad idea though - too floppy).
Now I am too reducing the weight on my GS-R.
I will be pulling off the ABS system this year when time allows. This is a chore though. To make it easier source a replacement non-abs master and a proportioning valve. This stuff is easy to find.
Look at your car this way.... touch every component. Ask your self can I remove this and if not how much can I reduce its weight without affecting performance/structure of the car.
I even redesigned my exhaust and made it a side exit (for the G1). Thats removed feet of piping and a heavy can! (Only had a Cherry bomb on her and YES she sounded good!). Again it was race only.
You can still swap for a lighter flywheel.
And there are HP gains to be made from all this. PS, AC are HP robbers! Lighter flywheel is better. Maybe a headder rather than the cast manifold? again HP and weight.
Typical calc is 100lbs off the car means you would have added 10hp to stock chassis. This is just on old school calc so people don't be all over me on this.
When my G1 teg was done I was about 500lbs lighter and I had added about 15 HP to car (with a ZC) with exhaust cams flywheel and no PS or AC.
G1 race car 1850lbs with about 150HP. Thats about 8HP per 100lbs
GSR 2750ish with 170 hp. Thats only 6HP per 100lbs
GSR 2450 with 185 hp. Thats 8 hp per 100lbs!
Had I kept the G1 the GSR motor would have been it it.
1900lbs lets say with 185HP Now you are at bout 10lbs per 100HP!
Weight reduction is the simple cheap way to get fast!
I have gone to the extreme once to reduce weight on a G1.
Stock my G1 was about 2350lbs.
Since it was for race only then I went nuts removing stuff. I weighed it all as well. Most surprising was the sound deadening material. This is on the floors inside from rear to the front firewall. As well the G1's (maybe all tegs) had a thick fire resistant materialon the firewall. That alone was 20lbs. The total was about 35 with the stuff from the floor.
some cars also have this material in the doors. Remove it all its adds up!
I was able to get my teg to about 1850 with 110lbs of cage!!
I made my car manual steering as well and had the drive pulley shaved down.
Ther was no ABS on this car.
I went as far as removing most of the underhood bracing. (Bad idea though - too floppy).
Now I am too reducing the weight on my GS-R.
I will be pulling off the ABS system this year when time allows. This is a chore though. To make it easier source a replacement non-abs master and a proportioning valve. This stuff is easy to find.
Look at your car this way.... touch every component. Ask your self can I remove this and if not how much can I reduce its weight without affecting performance/structure of the car.
I even redesigned my exhaust and made it a side exit (for the G1). Thats removed feet of piping and a heavy can! (Only had a Cherry bomb on her and YES she sounded good!). Again it was race only.
You can still swap for a lighter flywheel.
And there are HP gains to be made from all this. PS, AC are HP robbers! Lighter flywheel is better. Maybe a headder rather than the cast manifold? again HP and weight.
Typical calc is 100lbs off the car means you would have added 10hp to stock chassis. This is just on old school calc so people don't be all over me on this.
When my G1 teg was done I was about 500lbs lighter and I had added about 15 HP to car (with a ZC) with exhaust cams flywheel and no PS or AC.
G1 race car 1850lbs with about 150HP. Thats about 8HP per 100lbs
GSR 2750ish with 170 hp. Thats only 6HP per 100lbs
GSR 2450 with 185 hp. Thats 8 hp per 100lbs!
Had I kept the G1 the GSR motor would have been it it.
1900lbs lets say with 185HP Now you are at bout 10lbs per 100HP!
Weight reduction is the simple cheap way to get fast!