How to properly weight reduct integra
Ive looked on google, but cannot find any for a DA.
If you guys can just shoot off a bunch of stuff I can take off, it would be great. Thanks so much:) |
Most common but pricey weight reduction is changing parts and panels for carbon fiber.
Otherwise, you can consider gutting the rear, removing paneling, carpets, spare tire and hardware, etc. Also consider, if you have money to spend on this, lighter wheels. There are wheels out there that are each up to 10 pounds lighter than regular ones. Hope this helps |
I already gutted the rear.
I want this to be a track car, because i am turbo'ing it. But i also need it as a daily driver. So i cannot take out any of the stuff i really need. I wonder if I will pass safety if i gut the skeleton in the trunk on the quarter pannels and weld a roll cage. |
So then I suppose that leaves carbon parts, lighter wheels, and removing the spare tire if you haven't already.
It's astounding what kind of weight difference lighter wheels can have, I found a chart showing most popular wheels and their weights, I'll see if I can find it and post it up here. EDIT - here it is, found it http://www.wheelweights.net/ |
sweet. Wheels will be soon. Cant afford a good set right now. Im just focused on the interior. taking ---- out and making it look bare. I glued suede onto my trunk when i gutted it. I kinda dont like it. I wanna go for the black spray paint:).
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Sounds good man, bring it out to a meet when you're done! Excited to see it. Also, let me know if you need help.
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My DA wont be the nicest one at the meet lol. I only finished half of the cars body. From the door to the front bumper is mint. then the back isnt done. You can still see the scratch marks from the sand paper. I said, ---- it. Id rather spend a few hundred bucks on preformance then body.
If i need help, ill let u know. Also if u ever need suspension done, let me know. I just got a whole wack of tools, so im set to lower cars now. Its a "business" i used to do when i lived in brampton |
you can remove the sound deadener in your car... that will reduce your weight by a bit....
The posts above about light weight wheels are a good option...... reducing unsprung weight is a great thing too... |
What is that. Sorry.
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pertaining to what though? sound deadener, or unsprung weight?
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Oh sorry. the sound
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removing the interior is only like 20 lbs less, so not worth it to me. I'm leaving mine in and still putting a cage in the car.
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This is from team integra
entire A/C sysem: 46.5lbs cruise control actuator: 3.5lbs metal panel in glovebox door: 2lbs hatch interior (except anything visible from inside the cabin): 9.5lbs intake resonator (cut off from downward tube): 4lbs spare tire, jack, tools: 29.5lbs front tow hooks: 1lb tar from trunk and some below passenger's seat: 7lbs wiper fluid bottle + assembly (almost full): 5lbs power steering system: 17lbs passenger's airbag: 8lbs moonroof sliding cover: 1.5lbs rear seatbelts: 5lbs exhaust heatshields(all): 5lbs driver's airbag and wiring: 3lbs drivers kneeplates: 3lbs front passenger's seat: 34.5lbs (leaving in, but just checked) armrest replaced with jdm itr eliminator: 2lbs net (3lbs minus <1lb) entire abs system (lines, wiring, etc): 28lbs rear windshield wiper: 3lbs odyssey pc680t: stock29lbs-odyssey14lbs: 15lbs net 97+ rear underseat bars: 18lbs (6lbs each)*info on the bottom of page 6* intake manifold support bracket: 3lbs antenna motor: 2lbs |
Why would you remove the abs lines, as that's what the brake fluid goes through.
Nice you got about 220 LBS out from the car. |
I didnt remove abs lines. That list was from team integra. Just posting it up here to share
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Remove power steering and A\C, its quite a bit of weight and really no need for any of that :)
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Power steering. It is a higher risk of getting into an accident and very unsafe driving.
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^^^ No it's not, it just makes it a little harder to turn when your dead stop, that's all.
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My DA doesnt have A\C or powersteering anymore, first car i have ever drivin without it and havent had a problem, as spike said, just a dead stop is a little bit of a pain, like backing out of a small space in a parking lot
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try driving without power steering and making a 3point turn with oncoming traffic
lol |
haha. I had no power steering before. Try parallel parking.
So i just realized, i have to get my car inspected when i get insurance. So everything i took out, is going back in. jeeze louissssseeee |
done it, and they can wait haha, just use 2 hands, really not hard at all?
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i didnt have ps in my ef. and it was a bit different at first, but you either get stronger/use to it. i liked it more than power actually. there is no play in the wheel. with old steering racks that are power, you can have 'dead spots" and i dont like that. non power always just seemed more responsive so to speak.
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Great data above for weight reduction.
I have gone to the extreme once to reduce weight on a G1. Stock my G1 was about 2350lbs. Since it was for race only then I went nuts removing stuff. I weighed it all as well. Most surprising was the sound deadening material. This is on the floors inside from rear to the front firewall. As well the G1's (maybe all tegs) had a thick fire resistant materialon the firewall. That alone was 20lbs. The total was about 35 with the stuff from the floor. some cars also have this material in the doors. Remove it all its adds up! I was able to get my teg to about 1850 with 110lbs of cage!! I made my car manual steering as well and had the drive pulley shaved down. Ther was no ABS on this car. I went as far as removing most of the underhood bracing. (Bad idea though - too floppy). Now I am too reducing the weight on my GS-R. I will be pulling off the ABS system this year when time allows. This is a chore though. To make it easier source a replacement non-abs master and a proportioning valve. This stuff is easy to find. Look at your car this way.... touch every component. Ask your self can I remove this and if not how much can I reduce its weight without affecting performance/structure of the car. I even redesigned my exhaust and made it a side exit (for the G1). Thats removed feet of piping and a heavy can! (Only had a Cherry bomb on her and YES she sounded good!). Again it was race only. You can still swap for a lighter flywheel. And there are HP gains to be made from all this. PS, AC are HP robbers! Lighter flywheel is better. Maybe a headder rather than the cast manifold? again HP and weight. Typical calc is 100lbs off the car means you would have added 10hp to stock chassis. This is just on old school calc so people don't be all over me on this. When my G1 teg was done I was about 500lbs lighter and I had added about 15 HP to car (with a ZC) with exhaust cams flywheel and no PS or AC. G1 race car 1850lbs with about 150HP. Thats about 8HP per 100lbs GSR 2750ish with 170 hp. Thats only 6HP per 100lbs GSR 2450 with 185 hp. Thats 8 hp per 100lbs! Had I kept the G1 the GSR motor would have been it it. 1900lbs lets say with 185HP Now you are at bout 10lbs per 100HP! Weight reduction is the simple cheap way to get fast! |
WOw. thanks man. That gives me a lot of help.
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I'll be buying another teg to make a track car, then I'll show you weight reduction,lol.
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Please do. I NEED PICS:)
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I'd love building track cars.. maybe not even to run them myself, but doing them.
I always dreamt of doing one of three - a teg, a datsun 240zg, or a porsche 944 |
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