flywheel weight
#1
flywheel weight
What aftermarket flywheel weight are u guys using?
Talked to a couple friends who tried convincing me not to get a 9lbs flywheel because it really isn't for the street. To use a 12lbs instead.
I guess i'd really have to get in someones car and try it out for myself, to see what i'd like.
Opinions? Suggestions?
Talked to a couple friends who tried convincing me not to get a 9lbs flywheel because it really isn't for the street. To use a 12lbs instead.
I guess i'd really have to get in someones car and try it out for myself, to see what i'd like.
Opinions? Suggestions?
#2
I have a Act Prolite 8lbs flywheel. It's easy to drive. As you know I daily drive my car.
The only thing you have to get used to is change your driving habbit to shift faster. That's about it. Oh and rev match your downshift.
The revs just drops faster than oem.
The only thing you have to get used to is change your driving habbit to shift faster. That's about it. Oh and rev match your downshift.
The revs just drops faster than oem.
#3
I've used a Jun 11 lb chromoly steel flywheel and I can tell you from first hand that if you want the rpms to go up fast, get the lighter flywheel. Don't buy the "you want the inertia for the heavier flywheel for daily driving" sales pitch.
My problem with the Jun was that because it was made for a JDM starter, it was incompatible with the North American starter motor teeth and that would chew the FW teeth and cause the motor not to start over time. After about a year, I had to roll the car forwards about 2 feet in neutral first to get the 2 teeth rows to align before firing up the ignition to allow the starter to catch.
When I finally removed it, you could see the bevel of the FW teeth were badly damaged from the harder metal on the starter teeth.
some people had to machine a bevel on the edge to prevent that.
Nowadays most of the major FW's sold from US companies like ACT don't have that issue.
If you want your rpms to fly up like a bike's, get the 8-9 lb FW.
Do you autocross or solo1?
My problem with the Jun was that because it was made for a JDM starter, it was incompatible with the North American starter motor teeth and that would chew the FW teeth and cause the motor not to start over time. After about a year, I had to roll the car forwards about 2 feet in neutral first to get the 2 teeth rows to align before firing up the ignition to allow the starter to catch.
When I finally removed it, you could see the bevel of the FW teeth were badly damaged from the harder metal on the starter teeth.
some people had to machine a bevel on the edge to prevent that.
Nowadays most of the major FW's sold from US companies like ACT don't have that issue.
If you want your rpms to fly up like a bike's, get the 8-9 lb FW.
Do you autocross or solo1?