so ive got a jdm b20 swap in my 96 teg and there are a few problems. so first im pretty sure there is a coolant leak but cant seem to find it. ive put bottles and bottles in and the reservoir just ends up being empty. havent driven it far at all just around the block. could my rad be bad or is it most likely something else?

i also have a bad power steering leak which isnt really a big deal but would that cause a problem also? is there an easy power steering delete?

last problem is my check engine light. checked the codes and im getting codes for my TP sensor (code 7), MAP sensor (code 3) and my primary O2 sensor (code 41). what should i do when checking this?

 

As for the loss of colant it could be either your rad and it could be a head gasket problem. Check from where it is leaking exactly see where it is wet.

As for the powersteering you might need to just get a new pump once again not sure where it's leaking from find out might be an easy fix. There are ways of removing PS but I would advise just to keep it and fix it up unless it's gonna be a track car.

And as for the code readings try putting them into google see what turns up and how people dealt with them. There should be tons about this on google.

 

i hope its not the headgasket seeing as i just bought the motor about a month ago. have you used the dye thing from canadian tire? i thought about renting it but i dont know if its just a waste.

as for the leak its a steel line located behind the motor. i was thinking of using some rubber hosing and some clamps? would that be safe or is the pressure from the pump too much?

 

I'm not sure what dye you are referring too.

As for the PS the fact that it's metal hosing oem must be a reason behind it. Did the PS come with the motor or did you use your old one. Cuz I know when I did the motor swap I used my old powering steering it wad a bit different not much but enough for it not to sit properly.

 

To delete power steering, its a b1tch. You will need to remove the feed/return line from the rack and get a piece of hose with 2 fittings and loop those two. Downside is, it will not feel like proper no power steering. It will get harder to turn as you turn more. Since there is some fluid left in the rack the more you turn the more it will get compressed and hence the increased force to turn. I drove around with both end plugged for about 3 months till i got rid of the car just because of a power steering leak and though it got easier over time and got used to it, i now have a rack that has never seen fluid and its like night and day.
The proper way of doing this is by taking the cover off the rack where all the lines go in, and you can remove few pieces from it which will prevent the fluid that is in there from being pushed around. I remember reading a DIY on team-integra about this but i cannot remember exact procedures at this time [blame the beer].

Also the lines get quite a lot of pressure so your idea of rubber hose/clamp will not work.

For coolant, have you bled the system? It could just be sucking up the coolant as the air pockets are moving out. Otherwise check for smoke out the tail pipe and of course for obvious leaks around the head and heater/rad hoses.

Regarding the codes, TPS should just be replaced, MAP can be cleaned and O2...well also just replace. Can always check the wires from sensor to the harness for any damage and O2 can be tested with multimeter if im not mistaking

 

thanks for the help guys. i cant seem to find a coolant leak anywhere. the upper and lower rad hoses are getting hot so im assuming that the coolant is travelling. i also just realized the rad fan is not turning on. correct me if im wrong but the fan usually turns on after idling for 2 minutes right?

checked the tps and map sensors and figured out the problem it looks like theres a little piece of the tps broken but its still able to plug in, the map seems fine probably just need to clean it and the O2 just wasnt plugged all the way in. im gonna reset the ecu and see if at least the O2 sensor code goes away.

also ran into another problem once again. went to turn the car around and back it into the driveway and now i cant shift into any gears. shifts into gears when its off but not when its running. clutch still has the same feel as before but just wont go into gear. with that being said would this most likely be my clutch plate broken and shattered or whatever horrid thing may have happened to it? my slave is brand new as well. could it be the master? if a master fails would the clutch stick to the floor or would it still feel the same?

 

it sound crazy to me but I herd you can put black pepper in the reservoir to stop coolant leaks, not 100% how much you put in, research it more though before you put it in, it might save you some cash