moptrf

iTrader: (1)

I will be starting a motor build soon(98 GSR) and would like some advice. It will be rebuild at Canadian cylinder head, and tuned shortly after. looking for 200whp daily driver.

Bottom
New oem bearing, polish crank, stock rods,(maybe ls crank/rods if i can find them) 82mm bore, RS 82mm ITR pistons, ARP all round, ES motor inserts
new stage 1 clutch, 12.5 pound flywheel,new oem timing belt/water pump

top
port and polish < - Will this help, or a waste of money????
port match Skunk2 intake manifold, thermal gasket, supertech valve springs, stock retainers
Chipped P06 ecu

and need help picking a cam(was thinking of Rocket m22x or m22xx, or Sk2 pro1s/2s or maybe buddy club 3/3+)
and will i need to upgrade my fuel pump(walbro 255?) and TB(65mm or 68) and injectors(rc 310?), fpr, or will stock work for some?

I also looking to use a JDM ITR 1-4 header and was wondering if i should use 2.25 or 2.5 collector(has to have cat)
Also anybody know what the cr wil be about?

thanks

MPR

Couple of things to note:

-200whp NA from a b-series, even starting with an ITR motor, requires quite a bit of work and money.
-You'll need at least s2 s2+ cams or similar in another brand, with adjustable cam gears.
-You'll need after market valve springs and retainers to handle the extra lift from the bigger cams and higher rpm operation.
-You'll need a compression ratio of at least 11.5:1 or higher.
-You'll need to rev it higher (to a certain extent) to make use of the bigger cams. This should require having the whole rotating assembly balanced for reliability, smoothness and more efficient power delivery. Keep in mind, this doesn't mean screaming it just because. You only need to rev as high as the cams will allow it to make power. For example; if the power starts to drop off at 8700, then don't rev it any higher.
-You don't need to change the fuel pump. An adjustable fuel pressure regulator is a good idea and larger injectors may be necessary. 310's should be sufficient.
-The skunk2 intake mani is a good one for making NA power. A larger than stock (~68mm+) throttle body would be recommended.
-Port & polish of the head is not necessary but will help to achive your power goal. P&P is more effective and practical when building an NA motor vs a forced induction motor.

As for compression, you can shave the head for a higher cr, but depending on your choice of piston, you'll want to clay it to determine if the combination will work. You also have to take into account the cams your using and the cam timing. You don't want piston to valve contact...lol.

You can input the specs of your engine on c-speedracing and it will estimate your cr. Here's the link:http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/c...c/compcalc.php

Just so you know, you can add a turbo and make that power and then some for the same money or less and not have to rebuild the whole engine, depending on it's current condition. Just thought I'd throw that out there.

Just curious, what will the car be used for? Street, track, both?

moptrf

iTrader: (1)

thanks, its for the street, bit of track i want to stay na, and i have the money for this project, i have the supertech springs, not valves my motor has 230000km, burns oil(lots more in vtec), needs a rebuild anyway, the whole thing will be balanced at canadian clyinder head.

MPR

Cool, sounds good.

Buff4Prez Yo

iTrader: (2)

for the price, grab yourself a set of Brian Crower cams and valvetrain. i was originally gonna get the Buddy Club setup but it's too pricey.

try zealautowerks.com for a compression calculator.