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08-20-2005, 08:05 PM
#1
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Alright. When the motor is cold. And I take off for work. I drive maybe 1 km, then stop at the light, and my rpms drop to about 50-100 rpms..the car splutters and dies unless I give it gas, n pound a good run. then it runs perfect n no idle problem. Anyone have any idea as to what it could be.
I have new headers
new cap, rotor, and coil
new wires
new spark plugs
new ecu
new fuel filter
whats left? that could be the cause?
I have new headers
new cap, rotor, and coil
new wires
new spark plugs
new ecu
new fuel filter
whats left? that could be the cause?
08-20-2005, 10:13 PM
#2
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Join Date: May 2005
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vaccume leak?..check all the vaccume connections...and have a look @ u'r PCV valve
08-20-2005, 10:32 PM
#3
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The ignitor in the distributor 
08-21-2005, 03:05 PM
#5
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I bet it is. You think a coil just goes like that? You must of replaced it because it went out on you.
If a coil goes it's because of your ignitor, not the coil itself. You basically replaced all the workings of the distributor, but the most important part.
If a coil goes it's because of your ignitor, not the coil itself. You basically replaced all the workings of the distributor, but the most important part.
Last edited by WildoutWhiteGSR; 08-21-2005 at 03:08 PM.
08-21-2005, 05:08 PM
#6
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^^Agreed.
08-22-2005, 12:41 AM
#7
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so if it is the ignitor. then why does it work perfect when the motor is warm, n shitty when its cold? doesnt make sense to me.
08-22-2005, 01:41 AM
#8
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Bah it's your car, I could care less what you do. You ask for an answer and you got it.
Do whatever you want with that answer.
Go check for a vacuum leak then post it's not fixed. Service your injectors then tell us the problem's still there. Replace your fuel pump and main fuel relay. Then replace the ignitor and let us know how it goes.
Do whatever you want with that answer.
Go check for a vacuum leak then post it's not fixed. Service your injectors then tell us the problem's still there. Replace your fuel pump and main fuel relay. Then replace the ignitor and let us know how it goes.
08-23-2005, 07:26 AM
#9
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i have no clue what the vac leak would be. or how to do anythin else..ahh! this has been happeneing since i had my motor dropped, n put back in. the colder it is outside, the worse it gets. just drops dead after about a km. thing i dont understand is...it runs perfect when warm.
Anyone here know how to do body work? i need a huudge chunk of my 1/4 panels replaced. also need help with tryin to figure out why my brakes make this clicking sound. sounds like the pads loose or something. and Pricing On A good Muffler.
Anyone here know how to do body work? i need a huudge chunk of my 1/4 panels replaced. also need help with tryin to figure out why my brakes make this clicking sound. sounds like the pads loose or something. and Pricing On A good Muffler.
08-23-2005, 02:40 PM
#10
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Richmond Hill
Posts: 80
clicking sound's probably from your dust cover scraping ur brakes. or ---- in between your brake pads. just give it some hard stops and use a pressure washer if u can.
08-23-2005, 05:55 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by RiceBoi
clicking sound's probably from your dust cover scraping ur brakes. or ---- in between your brake pads. just give it some hard stops and use a pressure washer if u can.
tried..doesnt work, I duno. exaust is leakin again to:'( I have a POS! :horse:
08-23-2005, 11:16 PM
#12
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Everyone was wrong.
Rad Fluid Was too low
Clutch Wasnt properly installed, nd it got rusted. so when cold it wouldnt grab on idle and kept slipping. Hence the dropped RPMS n stalling. And Last but not least, leaks in the exaust and the spark plugs gap was off .02.
Thats why it was fucked up.
I topped up the rad fluid, changed the oil, and regapped the spark plugs. fixed one exaust leak. n the other 2, plus the new cat will get fixed tommorow at a shop. The clutch has to be fixed by my buddie who installed it. but just from the rad fluid, oil, regap, it helped alot!
Rad Fluid Was too low
Clutch Wasnt properly installed, nd it got rusted. so when cold it wouldnt grab on idle and kept slipping. Hence the dropped RPMS n stalling. And Last but not least, leaks in the exaust and the spark plugs gap was off .02.
Thats why it was fucked up.
I topped up the rad fluid, changed the oil, and regapped the spark plugs. fixed one exaust leak. n the other 2, plus the new cat will get fixed tommorow at a shop. The clutch has to be fixed by my buddie who installed it. but just from the rad fluid, oil, regap, it helped alot!
08-24-2005, 12:19 AM
#13
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Your honestly telling me you couldn't tell if your clutch was grabbing or not?
08-24-2005, 06:48 AM
#15
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it grabbed. but once it went on idle..It wouuldnt I dont think.
08-29-2005, 07:16 PM
#16
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Its NOT the clutch
The timing belt is apparently good
The Vacume or w.e all attached, no leaks. Any other ideas? it is NOT the ignitor..been checked.
The timing belt is apparently good
The Vacume or w.e all attached, no leaks. Any other ideas? it is NOT the ignitor..been checked.
08-30-2005, 01:08 AM
#17
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: AJAX
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Change the IGNITOR and then Change The Main Relay Asap And Then Come Back.
Last edited by yazo; 08-30-2005 at 01:09 AM. Reason: blah
08-30-2005, 02:50 PM
#19
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Then why ask us, since more than one remember has told you to replace the ignitor so we all must be wrong.
Go to a real mechanic
Go to a real mechanic
08-30-2005, 11:13 PM
#20
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ignitor either works..or doesnt. therefore I doubt its it..maybe 02 sensor, timing, or a fucked up cylinder. best way to deal with it...= motor in the garbage..n pickin up a new one.
08-31-2005, 12:59 AM
#21
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this is the dumbest thread
08-31-2005, 01:22 AM
#22
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Ur a tool. We've all stated it's the ignitor.
How about you go buy a helms and read it. Guess what my ignitor still worked, and was in spec. It will always be in spec when u check it cause the car can't be running when you do it. If there was away for the car to be running and check it, it would say differenet. Guess what though, I replaced it and problem solved.
As I said before. If your coil goes, it's because of a bad ignitor. A coil can't go bad on it's own. It's just a coil of wire inside a box. Your not being sensible. Too much friggin pride to listen to simple logic?
Do it, buy a new engine so I can laugh at you when you still have the same problem. I'm guessing you have a 95 teg by ur name. That would make ur ignitor 11 years old. Your smart enough to replace every other part, but the main and weakest part out of the whole ignition system.
Lock this ----
How about you go buy a helms and read it. Guess what my ignitor still worked, and was in spec. It will always be in spec when u check it cause the car can't be running when you do it. If there was away for the car to be running and check it, it would say differenet. Guess what though, I replaced it and problem solved.
As I said before. If your coil goes, it's because of a bad ignitor. A coil can't go bad on it's own. It's just a coil of wire inside a box. Your not being sensible. Too much friggin pride to listen to simple logic?
Do it, buy a new engine so I can laugh at you when you still have the same problem. I'm guessing you have a 95 teg by ur name. That would make ur ignitor 11 years old. Your smart enough to replace every other part, but the main and weakest part out of the whole ignition system.
Lock this ----
08-31-2005, 05:06 PM
#23
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did i forget to mention...its a new distributer? lol with a new ignitor, new coil, new everything?
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