Bleeding bolt on b18b1 - Toronto Integras - Torontos Acura Integra Club
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Old 03-17-2010, 12:09 AM   #1  
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Default Bleeding bolt on b18b1

Please dont post unless your 110% sure.

Where is the bleeding bolt on a OBD2 b18b1. for coolant.
Is is this one

Also what size is it

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Old 03-17-2010, 12:55 AM   #2  
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no thats not it there isnt one you leave the rad cap open to let the air out and top up

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Old 03-17-2010, 12:56 AM   #3  
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That bolt i circled is the bleeder bolt for coolant on the gsr and type r engines. wouldnt it be for the b18b1 aswell
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:00 AM   #4  
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no its not the bleeder bolt for gsr, type r engines...

its to drain the coolant from the block on both vtec / non-vtec engines



dont you have a helms manual?????????
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:02 AM   #5  
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:11 AM   #6  
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yea, i wanna bleed the coolant from the block and put new coolant in from my rad.

There is a bubble in my coolant sumwere. and what I was told is to bleed the whole thing.

But ill try what you said 1st. its cheaper newais:P
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:12 AM   #7  
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I was also told after I get the bubbles out, fill my overflow tank to half
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:15 AM   #8  
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No but i really should pick one up

Quote:
Originally Posted by irsdb7 View Post
no its not the bleeder bolt for gsr, type r engines...

its to drain the coolant from the block on both vtec / non-vtec engines



dont you have a helms manual?????????
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:16 AM   #9  
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thats not bleeding thats draining! to bleed is it get the air out of the line/system :facepalm:
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:18 AM   #10  
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well u gotta unbolt that bolt to bleed or drain the system :double facepalm:
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:19 AM   #11  
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yes you need to fill the overflow half way.. i can hook you up with the helms man if you want.. its PDF

edit

no you dont undo that bolt to bleed only to drain the block
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:20 AM   #12  
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alright.

tell me right now, step by step. How to get air bubbles outta my system
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:25 AM   #13  
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okay straight from the helms manual

9. Pour coolant into the radiator up to the base of the
tiller neck.
10. Start the engine and let
it run until it warms up (the radiator fan comes on at least twice).
11 . Turn off the engine. Check the level in the radiator
add coolant if needed.
12.
Put the radiator cap on tightly, then run the engine
again and check for leaks.



when you run the engine with the cap off it will circulate the coolant the air will rise and escape through the highest point which is the rad cap.. you can quicken the process by squishing the hoses a bunch of times
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:27 AM   #14  
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I already got coolant in there and a brand new rad. so ill skip step 9:P
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:36 AM   #15  
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which hoses. the upper rad and lower rad one
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:40 AM   #16  
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both... mostly lower its not that huge of a deal once you actually drive the car and get it to operating temp the thermostat will open and all the air will move up youll just need to top up with coolant after it cools down again...

basicly

add coolant

run it for a few mins with the cap off squish the hosese a bunch of times till you dont really see the coolant going down anymore then put the cap on after youve driven it and let it cool down check the lvl and top up
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Old 03-17-2010, 05:20 AM   #17  
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Now wait, Anthony how about just try driving and see if the car even overheats? This all seems pointless if it doesn't. As I said, it will go up half way up the gauge quick if you start booting it. Your DC as you explained may have this or other problems as thermostat stuck.
But it just seems pointless doing unnecessary work... Idle the car and watch the temp gauge if it even goes past half mark. Because I'm sure if you were driving with some spirit and it was at half already, it would have shot up to H very quick. So first see if there is a problem, then trouble shoot it. I called an air bubble but I was half asleep and you didn't give me enough details.
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