best oil?
10-24-2008, 10:31 AM
#1
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: st catharines
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best oil?
just want to know what brand u guys think is better? my engine is a gsr stock and i always been using royal purple 5w30, but i want to know if there is something better out there. (plus royal purple seems to burn a little to quickly)
i didnt find a thread related to it so. if u fond one please pst link.
i didnt find a thread related to it so. if u fond one please pst link.
Last edited by and3s; 10-24-2008 at 11:10 AM.
10-24-2008, 10:10 PM
#13
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give us some background info...
model? year? mileage? environment driven in? how hard its driven? oil change frequency? mods? etc etc
i can find you a couple of links... just gimme as much info as possible
model? year? mileage? environment driven in? how hard its driven? oil change frequency? mods? etc etc
i can find you a couple of links... just gimme as much info as possible
10-25-2008, 12:09 AM
#16
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if this is just another thread on what every joe thinks is the best...
...then i pick castrol syntec 0w30 - Euro Formula
Made In Germany :P
But if you want what REALLY is best... then you need to do some research; i have a link around here somewhere for some good articles...
Most of the crap now adays is made locally; mobil 1 and castrol are packaged, and very often manufactured right in toronto; or imported from the states. After my personal fav, i'd say Amsoil, followed closely by Royal Purple.
...then i pick castrol syntec 0w30 - Euro Formula
Made In Germany :P
But if you want what REALLY is best... then you need to do some research; i have a link around here somewhere for some good articles...
Most of the crap now adays is made locally; mobil 1 and castrol are packaged, and very often manufactured right in toronto; or imported from the states. After my personal fav, i'd say Amsoil, followed closely by Royal Purple.
10-25-2008, 09:05 AM
#17
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car is a 2000 GSR have 135000 km mods (long ram cold air intake, every thing else is prety much estock), car is driven in summer.and of course b/c is vtec i allways running on high rpms.
y can't every body agree on a brand? so many choises
First year the car was always runninf quaker estate syn. then i change to royal purple since then, ALWAYS royal purple have touch the car but i notice that royal purple burns way faster that quaker state.
i have been reading all ur coments and one of the best tests done on a car i think is this one
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmDRXmKk9m8 <<<<< thats how it should be done i think other companies just put their oil and run a test with no comparcion.
what do you guys think??
y can't every body agree on a brand? so many choisesFirst year the car was always runninf quaker estate syn. then i change to royal purple since then, ALWAYS royal purple have touch the car but i notice that royal purple burns way faster that quaker state.
i have been reading all ur coments and one of the best tests done on a car i think is this one
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmDRXmKk9m8 <<<<< thats how it should be done i think other companies just put their oil and run a test with no comparcion.
what do you guys think??
Last edited by and3s; 10-25-2008 at 09:35 AM.
10-25-2008, 09:53 AM
#18
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 30
I've had good results with Redline oils. Currently running it in two cars (2000 Civic, 2006 Odyssey) and it's held up really well past 8000kms so far. I'm running it with a K&N Gold oil filter. It's pricey, but you get what you pay for. I buy mine from Stage Four Motorsports.
10-25-2008, 02:36 PM
#22
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Oil companies spend millions of dollars a year in research and development, so to say something as nieve as "thats how it should be done i think other companies just put their oil and run a test with no comparcion" is just utter stupidity...
The only real way you'll really know is to run them through your vehicle, and find which gives you the best results; there are alot of additives implemented, things to help with corrosion, dilution, lubrication, flash point, etc etc.
It' still a 'fairly' new car, so you need to pick an oil, and stick with it... if you just keep running different kinds of oil through it, then the engine will develop several different wear patterns (not very good).
You say your burning oil fairly quickly? How long between oil changes, and how much do you have to top up your pan?
I've been using 0w30 castrol syntec (i used to be a mobil 1 5w30 man, myself) but since no one seems to carry 0w30 in many other brands, i thought i would settle for oil manufactured outside of the north americas. I've also been contemplating moving down to a 0w20 oil; i'm trying to keep oil pressure down, and flow up.
I'm currently running it in a freshly built B18C1 engine, turbocharged, putting out about 290whp... to this day, i have had no problems, and i vtec/boost the ***** out of her every day, with almost every application of the throttle (once its warmed up, of course :P)
But, i also change my oil between every 2000-3000km's. The best insurance for your engine, is frequent oil changes.
If you want anymore specific answers, lemme know.
My 2 cents.
The only real way you'll really know is to run them through your vehicle, and find which gives you the best results; there are alot of additives implemented, things to help with corrosion, dilution, lubrication, flash point, etc etc.
It' still a 'fairly' new car, so you need to pick an oil, and stick with it... if you just keep running different kinds of oil through it, then the engine will develop several different wear patterns (not very good).
You say your burning oil fairly quickly? How long between oil changes, and how much do you have to top up your pan?
I've been using 0w30 castrol syntec (i used to be a mobil 1 5w30 man, myself) but since no one seems to carry 0w30 in many other brands, i thought i would settle for oil manufactured outside of the north americas. I've also been contemplating moving down to a 0w20 oil; i'm trying to keep oil pressure down, and flow up.
I'm currently running it in a freshly built B18C1 engine, turbocharged, putting out about 290whp... to this day, i have had no problems, and i vtec/boost the ***** out of her every day, with almost every application of the throttle (once its warmed up, of course :P)
But, i also change my oil between every 2000-3000km's. The best insurance for your engine, is frequent oil changes.
If you want anymore specific answers, lemme know.
My 2 cents.
10-25-2008, 02:48 PM
#23
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Brampton
Posts: 425
This site should answer any, and all questions regarding oils and lubricants.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
If your confused, or need a more detailed explanation of info contained on the site, hit me up.
If someone wants to post up more useless information, then i also recommend you read through the site before adding your 2 cents.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
If your confused, or need a more detailed explanation of info contained on the site, hit me up.
If someone wants to post up more useless information, then i also recommend you read through the site before adding your 2 cents.
Last edited by BestodaBest; 10-25-2008 at 02:50 PM.
10-31-2008, 10:48 PM
#28
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11-02-2008, 11:17 AM
#32
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Even boosted that seems like an overkill interval when most oils are good for 10,000kms at least on an NA engine.
11-02-2008, 12:37 PM
#33
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Brampton
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Before i had boost, i changed my oil every 4000-5000km's.
But since i've been running my turbo, i've increased the frequency because the oil at 2000km's looks like the oil used to look at 5000km's.
I'm running a journal bearing turbo; so the oil is used to cool and lubricate the system; I don't have a turbo timer, so i just watch my EGT gauge and shut her down at about 4800 Degree's fahrenheit. No matter what though, there's always a small amount of oil that's going to "coke".
I'm also running a closed PCV system, so all that ---- blowing by the piston rings and valve seals are being forced into the oil (no matter how efficient your setup is, there will always be oil contamination). When you hit boost, and your running rich, all that gasoline will wash down the cylinder walls, and run into your oil. Gasoline + oil = bad for the engine.
All in all, for a relatively small amount of money, i don't mind changing my oil every 3000km's. It's $50 for 4 litres and a Honda filter.
Protect your investments, people.
EDIT: And i would never, EVER take a car to 10,000km's. Even with Amsoil, or any other *miracle long life omfgzors oil*
But since i've been running my turbo, i've increased the frequency because the oil at 2000km's looks like the oil used to look at 5000km's.
I'm running a journal bearing turbo; so the oil is used to cool and lubricate the system; I don't have a turbo timer, so i just watch my EGT gauge and shut her down at about 4800 Degree's fahrenheit. No matter what though, there's always a small amount of oil that's going to "coke".
I'm also running a closed PCV system, so all that ---- blowing by the piston rings and valve seals are being forced into the oil (no matter how efficient your setup is, there will always be oil contamination). When you hit boost, and your running rich, all that gasoline will wash down the cylinder walls, and run into your oil. Gasoline + oil = bad for the engine.
All in all, for a relatively small amount of money, i don't mind changing my oil every 3000km's. It's $50 for 4 litres and a Honda filter.
Protect your investments, people.
EDIT: And i would never, EVER take a car to 10,000km's. Even with Amsoil, or any other *miracle long life omfgzors oil*
11-02-2008, 04:35 PM
#35
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Location: Ontario
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BUT, this is no longer the 1960s. I've seen several oil analysis results of oil run to the now common 8000kms interval and its just fine.
What the oil "looks like" is not necessarily an indication of its protective qualities. Week old oil looks black as hell in my Accord, while 8000kms old oil has only slightly darkened in my RSX-S.
Modern engines are better built, modern oils are better developed, and so are the filters.
Getting your oil analyzed is a sure fire way to know where you are at.
11-13-2008, 11:07 PM
#37
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Location: 5-9K
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actually, modern "generic" oils are not developed to protect ur motor better, they are developed to reduce emissions/contaminants. the most modern os generic oils do not contain required levels non environmentally friendly protectants i.e. Zinc. most synthetic oils are acceptable, but, there are better, less environmetally friendly oils on the market. and royal purp is not one of them. redline, amsoil, motul, and torco usually stand above the rest
Last edited by nightstick; 11-13-2008 at 11:10 PM.
11-18-2008, 10:14 AM
#39
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Location: Brampton
Posts: 425
I'm all for protecting your investment, particularly in cases like yours with a built engine.
BUT, this is no longer the 1960s. I've seen several oil analysis results of oil run to the now common 8000kms interval and its just fine.
What the oil "looks like" is not necessarily an indication of its protective qualities. Week old oil looks black as hell in my Accord, while 8000kms old oil has only slightly darkened in my RSX-S.
Modern engines are better built, modern oils are better developed, and so are the filters.
Getting your oil analyzed is a sure fire way to know where you are at.
BUT, this is no longer the 1960s. I've seen several oil analysis results of oil run to the now common 8000kms interval and its just fine.
What the oil "looks like" is not necessarily an indication of its protective qualities. Week old oil looks black as hell in my Accord, while 8000kms old oil has only slightly darkened in my RSX-S.
Modern engines are better built, modern oils are better developed, and so are the filters.
Getting your oil analyzed is a sure fire way to know where you are at.
Although, there are a number of determining factors that i use in rough estimates as to my oil change timelines.
Things such as how quickly or frequently i burn oil (have a buddy spot my exhaust), regular operating temperatures, oil level, turbo time (i occasionally find myself resorting to hot shutdowns if i'm running late for a timing, or if i'll be "in and out").
So instead of taking a gamble, topping up my oil, or sending my oil out for analysis, i just choose to change my oil more frequently.
But everyone has there own ways of conducting business; maybe when summer comes i'll get around to sending my oil off. Maybe even check things like compressor efficiency, pressure losses through the charge piping, temperature differences between the filter/compressor/intercooler/throttle body, etc...
11-18-2008, 11:29 AM
#40
n00b
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Toronto
Posts: 78
The oil companies and oil change service stations are obviously doing a good job at brain washing ppl into thinking they have to change their oil at 5000km. Even good Dino oil is good for 8000km and if you don't believe me get your oil analyzed, it is the only true judge.
Even if oil is cheap and it is better for your vehicle, think of the environment. You are depleting a non-renewable resource.
As for the quality of the oil, do you plan on keeping your car much longer than 300,000km? I'm sure the answer for most ppl is no, so then why spend the extra money on synthetic oil? Most ppl sell their car after 150,000km... it doesn't make sense to me.
I used Penzoil in my VTEC Prelude and it had 300,000km when I sold it, it is still running fine. I did oil changes every 8-10,000km and used VTEC a lot. What more proof do you need?
Even if oil is cheap and it is better for your vehicle, think of the environment. You are depleting a non-renewable resource.
As for the quality of the oil, do you plan on keeping your car much longer than 300,000km? I'm sure the answer for most ppl is no, so then why spend the extra money on synthetic oil? Most ppl sell their car after 150,000km... it doesn't make sense to me.
I used Penzoil in my VTEC Prelude and it had 300,000km when I sold it, it is still running fine. I did oil changes every 8-10,000km and used VTEC a lot. What more proof do you need?