future recomendations
12-08-2010, 09:16 PM
#1
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future recomendations
I have tried researching and all but I still have not decided. In the future, i would like to add a vtec and/or turbo on my stock rs engine... OR can possibly just swap for a b18c..but right now the stock engine has 168xxxkms... a few questions come to mind... with that kms...is it still reliable to work on it? if not i might just go to the b18c way....keeping in mind maybe it'll be closer to 180xxxkms if every i decide to do a vtec and/or turbo... another question is, i kind of don't want to buy any parts and then replacing them again for the vtec/turbo setup in the future. What kind of small or even major parts i can mod now that can stay for the future mods. ie. headers, intake..etc?
12-08-2010, 09:55 PM
#3
Oh boy you got loads of research to do. This has been covered about a bilion times but here we go again.
First of all, what are your power goals? And what is your budget?
Second of all, the engine is still in decent mileage, though you should check compression test and/or leakdown test to see if your engine is in decent condition.
For mods, it depends what you want to do. Cams...you can do if you stay non-vtec and go boost. Exhaust manifold wouldn't even waste my money on, since if you go turbo, the header will be a waste. And so is all the exhaust really. 3" exhaust would be most optimal with turbo, but would cause a lot of low end power loss without one in the low end.
Decide what you want and work towards that. Save your money and don't buy parts that free up "1-3hp".
First of all, what are your power goals? And what is your budget?
Second of all, the engine is still in decent mileage, though you should check compression test and/or leakdown test to see if your engine is in decent condition.
For mods, it depends what you want to do. Cams...you can do if you stay non-vtec and go boost. Exhaust manifold wouldn't even waste my money on, since if you go turbo, the header will be a waste. And so is all the exhaust really. 3" exhaust would be most optimal with turbo, but would cause a lot of low end power loss without one in the low end.
Decide what you want and work towards that. Save your money and don't buy parts that free up "1-3hp".
04-21-2011, 11:19 PM
#8
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ok...soo i finally finish my degree.. yay... and car only has 175kms...
back to the topic...
car is going to be a DD and a half because im ganna grab a bike... not really going to track it..
as with power.. im looking towards 200-250 hp... i really just want something fun to drive.
so i could do the compression test and hopefully alll is well and/or rebuilt the engine.. my question is... would turbo be reliable around the 200-250 range since itll be DD... or should I do gsr swap and upgrade to reach the hp....
and also other upgrades like transmission and clutch....
its alot of what ifs... just looking for some recommendations, possibly a tip that you guys can tell me to stay away from or what not...
as for budget... its going to be open.. most likely.. the best bang for the buck... but if you need numbers... id say no more than 4k....thats a max of 4k...
back to the topic...
car is going to be a DD and a half because im ganna grab a bike... not really going to track it..
as with power.. im looking towards 200-250 hp... i really just want something fun to drive.
so i could do the compression test and hopefully alll is well and/or rebuilt the engine.. my question is... would turbo be reliable around the 200-250 range since itll be DD... or should I do gsr swap and upgrade to reach the hp....
and also other upgrades like transmission and clutch....
its alot of what ifs... just looking for some recommendations, possibly a tip that you guys can tell me to stay away from or what not...
as for budget... its going to be open.. most likely.. the best bang for the buck... but if you need numbers... id say no more than 4k....thats a max of 4k...
04-22-2011, 12:41 AM
#9
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: toronto
Posts: 383
an ls/vtec with alot of goodies will net you low 200. (i think, someone with more experiance please correct me if im wrong)
best bang for the buck is definitly a turbo kit but please stay away from ebay and fpm motorsport kits.
a good kit will cost anywhere from 2000 to 3500. if you get it used a bit cheaper. but dont forget another 600 for a tune.
i know some people that have pieced a kit together for about 2000 using used parts and dsm turbos, injectors, and bov. if you end up getting dsm injectors i suggest black tops instead of blue tops because black tops are dual spray instead of single spray.
if you go turbo stick with the ls because its prime compression already. you dont have to but if you want the extra assurance you can get all arp headstud main studs and rod bolts and aftermarket pistons 9:1 cp.
if you still have a stock clutch get atleast a stage 1 or more. the ls tranny is pretty good because the longer gear ratios gives you more time to build boost.
hope this helps
best bang for the buck is definitly a turbo kit but please stay away from ebay and fpm motorsport kits.
a good kit will cost anywhere from 2000 to 3500. if you get it used a bit cheaper. but dont forget another 600 for a tune.
i know some people that have pieced a kit together for about 2000 using used parts and dsm turbos, injectors, and bov. if you end up getting dsm injectors i suggest black tops instead of blue tops because black tops are dual spray instead of single spray.
if you go turbo stick with the ls because its prime compression already. you dont have to but if you want the extra assurance you can get all arp headstud main studs and rod bolts and aftermarket pistons 9:1 cp.
if you still have a stock clutch get atleast a stage 1 or more. the ls tranny is pretty good because the longer gear ratios gives you more time to build boost.
hope this helps
04-22-2011, 01:38 AM
#10
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thanks... also to add.. im not in a rush for this build..
i am leaning towards a small turbo... and if anything ..realistically i might do a rebuilt first and get the engine ready for the turbo... just need a lot more info and have a direction..dont really want to do a ls/vtec and then decide to boost... i kind want to know my end goal..and work from there.. saves money and time...
just to let you know... i am a complete noob... and hopefully within the process ill be atleast level 8 prestige...lol
i am leaning towards a small turbo... and if anything ..realistically i might do a rebuilt first and get the engine ready for the turbo... just need a lot more info and have a direction..dont really want to do a ls/vtec and then decide to boost... i kind want to know my end goal..and work from there.. saves money and time...
just to let you know... i am a complete noob... and hopefully within the process ill be atleast level 8 prestige...lol
04-22-2011, 08:12 AM
#11
If your looking to spend 4000$ at most to get 200-250 then turbo is the way to go. A gsr swap will cost you around $2000 and to build it to get to 200+ will cost you another 3000+
Turbo is an easy way to get high numbers even on stock parts but you lose that reliabilty. Dont jump into anything without doing your research. If your budget is $4000 always leave room for errors and have a little bit more towards that number.
Turbo is an easy way to get high numbers even on stock parts but you lose that reliabilty. Dont jump into anything without doing your research. If your budget is $4000 always leave room for errors and have a little bit more towards that number.
04-26-2011, 06:02 PM
#12
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ok.. well since iv decided that turbo is the goal... i was wondering if it would be advisable to just slap a turbo on it... IF my compression is good.. what should be RECOMMENDED to upgrade on the engine for the turbo... my initial plan was to rebuild the engine... but i mean what if the engine is still good.. what are your MUST upgrade for the engine?...
ignazty mentioned "you can get all arp headstud main studs and rod bolts and aftermarket pistons 9:1 cp. "
is that all or if anything is there any a must upgrade?..
ignazty mentioned "you can get all arp headstud main studs and rod bolts and aftermarket pistons 9:1 cp. "
is that all or if anything is there any a must upgrade?..
04-26-2011, 07:41 PM
#13
If you're turbo-ing, rods and head studs I'd say. It wouldn't hurt to replace your bearings either if money allows.
Adding extra compression pressure in the cylinders as with a turbo will exert a lot more force on your rods and those are the common point of failure on the LS motors, so that's a definite must if you want to push serious power and/or keep some decent reliability. Otherwise, things are just extra precautions - new bearings to not spin an old one; head studs - better resistance to increased internal pressures (changed compression ratio through pistons or otherwise forced induction).
Sky's the limit, but the more money the more reliable. Research research research. Having a good budget plan is an excellent starting point for sure. Expect to be spending a good amount of money on the turbo setup and parts, it'll cost a pretty penny I'm sure.
Adding extra compression pressure in the cylinders as with a turbo will exert a lot more force on your rods and those are the common point of failure on the LS motors, so that's a definite must if you want to push serious power and/or keep some decent reliability. Otherwise, things are just extra precautions - new bearings to not spin an old one; head studs - better resistance to increased internal pressures (changed compression ratio through pistons or otherwise forced induction).
Sky's the limit, but the more money the more reliable. Research research research. Having a good budget plan is an excellent starting point for sure. Expect to be spending a good amount of money on the turbo setup and parts, it'll cost a pretty penny I'm sure.
04-27-2011, 11:33 PM
#15
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regarding water pumps and timing belt... im due soon for a new one.. and since im planning on a turbo set up in the future.. what is recommended.. gsr wp/tb? or still with the ls? for the turbo
also is it ok to run gsr wp/tb on an ls motor since the turbo has no timetable yet...
also is it ok to run gsr wp/tb on an ls motor since the turbo has no timetable yet...
04-28-2011, 01:15 PM
#16
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another thing.... stock ls rods w/ arp bolts vs. eagle h-beams ?? i know the pros and cons but....my initial goal is 250 max... but in the future if i want to go up to 300... you think oem rods with arp bolts could sustain it? i still dont know about my rev limit...
04-28-2011, 09:50 PM
#17
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I wouldnt rev an LS past 7K, with turbo you dont really need to cuz 90% of your power is gonna kick in down low any way. Since ure a nooB i would just grab a turbo kit for ure car...that way it comes with everything u need...just remember ure gonna smoke ure stock clutch soon...dont forget about torque...LS has 128 ft-lb stock, with turbo u gonna add another 100...
04-28-2011, 10:17 PM
#18
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yea..i understand that.. im learning so much in the past week... but i mean being a noob doesnt mean taking a short cut... if i can grab pieces together and save 40% ..why not... but u have a point
I could just go stock internals like a lot of people are saying because my hp goal is below 300hp... but i still want added reliability and a possible increase in hp in the future... so
so far here is what my wish list ... pls advice if ill be getting something unnecessary..
option 1: ARP rod bolts and head studs
Headgasket
CP or wiseco pistons (still need help on specific compression)
Stage 2 or 3 clutch
Turbo kit possible w/ t3/t4 57 trim
550 cc injectors
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
option 2:
stay stock ls
Stage 2 or 3 clutch
Turbo kit possible w/ t3/t4 57 trim
550 cc injectors
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Im still a long way but Im starting to understand more... i might go for option 2 just because Im not yet comfortable in opening the engine.
what you guys think?...i know theres more im missing.. but right now, i want to decide whether to stay stock or upgrade internals... money is tight atm but will be getting some chiching ..but then again i dont want to be spending all my money on it...soo 4k is still the budget..
I could just go stock internals like a lot of people are saying because my hp goal is below 300hp... but i still want added reliability and a possible increase in hp in the future... so
so far here is what my wish list ... pls advice if ill be getting something unnecessary..
option 1: ARP rod bolts and head studs
Headgasket
CP or wiseco pistons (still need help on specific compression)
Stage 2 or 3 clutch
Turbo kit possible w/ t3/t4 57 trim
550 cc injectors
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
option 2:
stay stock ls
Stage 2 or 3 clutch
Turbo kit possible w/ t3/t4 57 trim
550 cc injectors
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Im still a long way but Im starting to understand more... i might go for option 2 just because Im not yet comfortable in opening the engine.
what you guys think?...i know theres more im missing.. but right now, i want to decide whether to stay stock or upgrade internals... money is tight atm but will be getting some chiching ..but then again i dont want to be spending all my money on it...soo 4k is still the budget..
04-29-2011, 12:08 AM
#19
Well, if you bottom end is healthy, dont burn oil or coolant and compression is all there, i say go with option 2. Though, arp head bolts is a VERY good idea. You do the headgasket at the same time since they are not reusable. Rod bolts can also be done without taking the engine apart.
Moreover, piecing together a turbo kit, would probably be a better idea, atleast in my opinion, since if you have patience and time, you can find a lot of good deals on many parts.
Stay clear of turbo kits for 1500$-2000$ since in reality, a brand spankin new turbo ranges from 900$-2500$ depending on brand/size, so keep that in mind. Finding a used turbo in good condition is key, rest is not a big deal. Example, piping is piping...if you going to be using boots, then even the thin ebay piping will be just fine. If you decide to weld them, GoAutoWorks sells piping kits or you can find it locally on the forums. Intercooler can be had at a scrap yard if you are really tight on cash, or Ebay intercoolers are actually decent quality.
I see you are looking at 550cc injectors?? WHY?! Get some 450cc DSM injectors and a resistor box and you will be good to go. Total spent = about 100$ lol.
Other than that, stage 2 clutch will be enough [should be] as long as you break her in properly and dont go crazy at slipping it on launches.
Post back with more questions and or if any clarification is needed. Too late at night and im tired of typing :P
Moreover, piecing together a turbo kit, would probably be a better idea, atleast in my opinion, since if you have patience and time, you can find a lot of good deals on many parts.
Stay clear of turbo kits for 1500$-2000$ since in reality, a brand spankin new turbo ranges from 900$-2500$ depending on brand/size, so keep that in mind. Finding a used turbo in good condition is key, rest is not a big deal. Example, piping is piping...if you going to be using boots, then even the thin ebay piping will be just fine. If you decide to weld them, GoAutoWorks sells piping kits or you can find it locally on the forums. Intercooler can be had at a scrap yard if you are really tight on cash, or Ebay intercoolers are actually decent quality.
I see you are looking at 550cc injectors?? WHY?! Get some 450cc DSM injectors and a resistor box and you will be good to go. Total spent = about 100$ lol.
Other than that, stage 2 clutch will be enough [should be] as long as you break her in properly and dont go crazy at slipping it on launches.
Post back with more questions and or if any clarification is needed. Too late at night and im tired of typing :P
04-29-2011, 12:28 AM
#20
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Well, if you bottom end is healthy, dont burn oil or coolant and compression is all there, i say go with option 2. Though, arp head bolts is a VERY good idea. You do the headgasket at the same time since they are not reusable. Rod bolts can also be done without taking the engine apart.
Moreover, piecing together a turbo kit, would probably be a better idea, atleast in my opinion, since if you have patience and time, you can find a lot of good deals on many parts.
Stay clear of turbo kits for 1500$-2000$ since in reality, a brand spankin new turbo ranges from 900$-2500$ depending on brand/size, so keep that in mind. Finding a used turbo in good condition is key, rest is not a big deal. Example, piping is piping...if you going to be using boots, then even the thin ebay piping will be just fine. If you decide to weld them, GoAutoWorks sells piping kits or you can find it locally on the forums. Intercooler can be had at a scrap yard if you are really tight on cash, or Ebay intercoolers are actually decent quality.
I see you are looking at 550cc injectors?? WHY?! Get some 450cc DSM injectors and a resistor box and you will be good to go. Total spent = about 100$ lol.
Other than that, stage 2 clutch will be enough [should be] as long as you break her in properly and dont go crazy at slipping it on launches.
Post back with more questions and or if any clarification is needed. Too late at night and im tired of typing :P
Moreover, piecing together a turbo kit, would probably be a better idea, atleast in my opinion, since if you have patience and time, you can find a lot of good deals on many parts.
Stay clear of turbo kits for 1500$-2000$ since in reality, a brand spankin new turbo ranges from 900$-2500$ depending on brand/size, so keep that in mind. Finding a used turbo in good condition is key, rest is not a big deal. Example, piping is piping...if you going to be using boots, then even the thin ebay piping will be just fine. If you decide to weld them, GoAutoWorks sells piping kits or you can find it locally on the forums. Intercooler can be had at a scrap yard if you are really tight on cash, or Ebay intercoolers are actually decent quality.
I see you are looking at 550cc injectors?? WHY?! Get some 450cc DSM injectors and a resistor box and you will be good to go. Total spent = about 100$ lol.
Other than that, stage 2 clutch will be enough [should be] as long as you break her in properly and dont go crazy at slipping it on launches.
Post back with more questions and or if any clarification is needed. Too late at night and im tired of typing :P
dude piece it together saves alot of money. and dsm black tops swith a rb will save you 100+! just make sure they are cleaned and perhaps flow tested.
you want reliability and the option to up the power to 300 arp bolts, eagle h beam rods and pistons! the weak points will all be reinforced by doing that. its a bit more money but it keep you from thinking if i floor it will i break lol
intercoolers off ebay are decent but make sure its a brand name one lol. dont forget other stuff like fuel pump, colder spark plugs,gauges, fpr, mbc etc etc
04-29-2011, 12:43 AM
#21
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Join Date: Jul 2009
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what about the pistons?... will oem hold up or should i get aftermarket? or b16?...
I know the BEST/RELIABLE is to upgrade.. but im not going to go higher than 300hp (yet) also..how difficult is it to do the pistons +rods + gasket?...is it a possible diy?. also..iv heard that oem rods will hold as long as i upgrade the bolts...
so so far..
ARP rod bolts and head studs
Headgasket
Stage 2 clutch
Turbo kit possible w/ t3/t4 57 trim
450 cc injectors, dsm black top-2g..+ rb
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
still have question on pistons...i know i keep repeating myself.. but for under 300 hp... is it ok to run oem pistons?... (cause if i can..ill save some)
also with the water pump and timing belt.. im close for a change... which is desirable for an ls turbo... gsr wp/tb or stay ls? and why..?...keeping in mine if i do go gsr..id still have no turbo untill then...
and what intake manifold is recommended?...
intercoolers and gauges, tuners and other stuff.. should be easy and id tackle those later on... i just want to get the primary things..and then i can go shopping...
also... if i stick with my plan.. how long will this take?...if i dont lift my engine....
thannnkss...
I know the BEST/RELIABLE is to upgrade.. but im not going to go higher than 300hp (yet) also..how difficult is it to do the pistons +rods + gasket?...is it a possible diy?. also..iv heard that oem rods will hold as long as i upgrade the bolts...
so so far..
ARP rod bolts and head studs
Headgasket
Stage 2 clutch
Turbo kit possible w/ t3/t4 57 trim
450 cc injectors, dsm black top-2g..+ rb
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
still have question on pistons...i know i keep repeating myself.. but for under 300 hp... is it ok to run oem pistons?... (cause if i can..ill save some)
also with the water pump and timing belt.. im close for a change... which is desirable for an ls turbo... gsr wp/tb or stay ls? and why..?...keeping in mine if i do go gsr..id still have no turbo untill then...
and what intake manifold is recommended?...
intercoolers and gauges, tuners and other stuff.. should be easy and id tackle those later on... i just want to get the primary things..and then i can go shopping...
also... if i stick with my plan.. how long will this take?...if i dont lift my engine....
thannnkss...
04-29-2011, 01:51 AM
#22
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: toronto
Posts: 383
what about the pistons?... will oem hold up or should i get aftermarket? or b16?...
I know the BEST/RELIABLE is to upgrade.. but im not going to go higher than 300hp (yet) also..how difficult is it to do the pistons +rods + gasket?...is it a possible diy?. also..iv heard that oem rods will hold as long as i upgrade the bolts...
so so far..
ARP rod bolts and head studs
Headgasket
Stage 2 clutch
Turbo kit possible w/ t3/t4 57 trim
450 cc injectors, dsm black top-2g..+ rb
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
still have question on pistons...i know i keep repeating myself.. but for under 300 hp... is it ok to run oem pistons?... (cause if i can..ill save some)
also with the water pump and timing belt.. im close for a change... which is desirable for an ls turbo... gsr wp/tb or stay ls? and why..?...keeping in mine if i do go gsr..id still have no turbo untill then...
and what intake manifold is recommended?...
intercoolers and gauges, tuners and other stuff.. should be easy and id tackle those later on... i just want to get the primary things..and then i can go shopping...
also... if i stick with my plan.. how long will this take?...if i dont lift my engine....
thannnkss...
I know the BEST/RELIABLE is to upgrade.. but im not going to go higher than 300hp (yet) also..how difficult is it to do the pistons +rods + gasket?...is it a possible diy?. also..iv heard that oem rods will hold as long as i upgrade the bolts...
so so far..
ARP rod bolts and head studs
Headgasket
Stage 2 clutch
Turbo kit possible w/ t3/t4 57 trim
450 cc injectors, dsm black top-2g..+ rb
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
still have question on pistons...i know i keep repeating myself.. but for under 300 hp... is it ok to run oem pistons?... (cause if i can..ill save some)
also with the water pump and timing belt.. im close for a change... which is desirable for an ls turbo... gsr wp/tb or stay ls? and why..?...keeping in mine if i do go gsr..id still have no turbo untill then...
and what intake manifold is recommended?...
intercoolers and gauges, tuners and other stuff.. should be easy and id tackle those later on... i just want to get the primary things..and then i can go shopping...
also... if i stick with my plan.. how long will this take?...if i dont lift my engine....
thannnkss...
you have a ls motor? if so b16 pistons will be too small.
id say if you end up going gsr dont bother doing the wp/tb unless you plan on trying to sell it after. just my opinion other people would disagree.
for boost usually people say a victor x or performer x
skunk 2 for n/a
"intercoolers and gauges, tuners and other stuff.. should be easy and id tackle those later on... i just want to get the primary things..and then i can go shopping..."
keep in mind a tune is 600 bucks unless you plan on tuning it yourself. plus always always leave yourself room for stuff to go wrong and unexpected cost.
04-29-2011, 06:40 AM
#23
For water pump/timing belt, leave LS. As long as you dont rev the ---- out of it, ls will do just fine. GSR/B16 pumps have fewer fins to prevent foaming, but pushing it to 7.-7.5k rpm it will be just fine.
Regarding pistons, the stock ls will do just fine. B16 pistons will fit since ls/gsr/itr is all the same bore. The only b series that had a different bore was the b20 which was 3mm over. Though you should keep in mind that by installing b16 pistons you will raise compression which isnt what you want to do with a turbo engine.
The weak point is the rods. If you feel like you want to upgrade those, go right ahead and either get lower compression or leave stock pistons. Stock rods dont really like more than 280whp, keep it slightly lower than 300whp mark. It has been done before, no clue how long it was running for. Only reason you would want to upgrade the pistons is, if/when it gets hot enough and you miss, you will pop a hole in a piston lol. But as long as its tuned right, you will not have to worry about that.
Honestly, for turbo application, intake manifold isnt such big thing when lets say you compare N/A. You jam the air up the intake manifold and down to cylinders under pressure, not vacuum compared to n/a. So if you have a bit of cash to burn, go ahead and get Skunk2 or victoryX, if you wanna save a bit, ive heard good things about BLOX manifolds, slightly on the cheaper side yet still get the job done.
Regarding pistons, the stock ls will do just fine. B16 pistons will fit since ls/gsr/itr is all the same bore. The only b series that had a different bore was the b20 which was 3mm over. Though you should keep in mind that by installing b16 pistons you will raise compression which isnt what you want to do with a turbo engine.
The weak point is the rods. If you feel like you want to upgrade those, go right ahead and either get lower compression or leave stock pistons. Stock rods dont really like more than 280whp, keep it slightly lower than 300whp mark. It has been done before, no clue how long it was running for. Only reason you would want to upgrade the pistons is, if/when it gets hot enough and you miss, you will pop a hole in a piston lol. But as long as its tuned right, you will not have to worry about that.
Honestly, for turbo application, intake manifold isnt such big thing when lets say you compare N/A. You jam the air up the intake manifold and down to cylinders under pressure, not vacuum compared to n/a. So if you have a bit of cash to burn, go ahead and get Skunk2 or victoryX, if you wanna save a bit, ive heard good things about BLOX manifolds, slightly on the cheaper side yet still get the job done.
04-29-2011, 12:19 PM
#24
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: toronto
Posts: 370
For water pump/timing belt, leave LS. As long as you dont rev the ---- out of it, ls will do just fine. GSR/B16 pumps have fewer fins to prevent foaming, but pushing it to 7.-7.5k rpm it will be just fine.
Regarding pistons, the stock ls will do just fine. B16 pistons will fit since ls/gsr/itr is all the same bore. The only b series that had a different bore was the b20 which was 3mm over. Though you should keep in mind that by installing b16 pistons you will raise compression which isnt what you want to do with a turbo engine.
The weak point is the rods. If you feel like you want to upgrade those, go right ahead and either get lower compression or leave stock pistons. Stock rods dont really like more than 280whp, keep it slightly lower than 300whp mark. It has been done before, no clue how long it was running for. Only reason you would want to upgrade the pistons is, if/when it gets hot enough and you miss, you will pop a hole in a piston lol. But as long as its tuned right, you will not have to worry about that.
Honestly, for turbo application, intake manifold isnt such big thing when lets say you compare N/A. You jam the air up the intake manifold and down to cylinders under pressure, not vacuum compared to n/a. So if you have a bit of cash to burn, go ahead and get Skunk2 or victoryX, if you wanna save a bit, ive heard good things about BLOX manifolds, slightly on the cheaper side yet still get the job done.
Regarding pistons, the stock ls will do just fine. B16 pistons will fit since ls/gsr/itr is all the same bore. The only b series that had a different bore was the b20 which was 3mm over. Though you should keep in mind that by installing b16 pistons you will raise compression which isnt what you want to do with a turbo engine.
The weak point is the rods. If you feel like you want to upgrade those, go right ahead and either get lower compression or leave stock pistons. Stock rods dont really like more than 280whp, keep it slightly lower than 300whp mark. It has been done before, no clue how long it was running for. Only reason you would want to upgrade the pistons is, if/when it gets hot enough and you miss, you will pop a hole in a piston lol. But as long as its tuned right, you will not have to worry about that.
Honestly, for turbo application, intake manifold isnt such big thing when lets say you compare N/A. You jam the air up the intake manifold and down to cylinders under pressure, not vacuum compared to n/a. So if you have a bit of cash to burn, go ahead and get Skunk2 or victoryX, if you wanna save a bit, ive heard good things about BLOX manifolds, slightly on the cheaper side yet still get the job done.
so if you saying intake manifold isnt a big thing....can i keep my stock?.. \
martin..im pretty sure youv done ...arp head studs and rod bolts...+bearings... how long did it take..and the difficulty level?.... also..you guys didnt comment on the turbo i was aiming for... i guess its perfect for my goal?...
as for the budget... all im waiting for is getting my license...and if thats a success..nothing is stopping me to doing this project... so i will definitely get it tuned properly...
04-29-2011, 02:21 PM
#25
Sorry lol I'm going to bring up the water pumps again, what DTP said is true with less fins and I believe they're smaller too. If you do go with a GSR or Type R water pump, you're going to need the equivalent belt for the water pump because I believe LS belts are shorter then GSR/Type R belts.
04-29-2011, 02:45 PM
#26
the gsr and b16 belts are different length since b16 deck height is different. Moreover i believe the number of teeth on the belt on vtec vs non-vtec is different.
Raymund, if you gonna get new bearings, then its highly recommended that you get the crank micropolished. The b20v that i put together is running with KING bearings without any problems.
To do rod bolts and head bolts is easy. For rods, all you do is remove the pan/pick up/windage tray and from there you can access the rod bolts. Just need to be EXTREMELY careful not to scratch the crank.
For head bolts, all you do is remove the head, install the studs hand tight, install a new headgasket, set the head down and torque the nuts down. Good idea at that point to check for flatness of the block and head. If its beyond manufacturers specs, parts will need to be machined.
Regarding the intake manifold, yes, you can run the stock ls manifold.
Raymund, if you gonna get new bearings, then its highly recommended that you get the crank micropolished. The b20v that i put together is running with KING bearings without any problems.
To do rod bolts and head bolts is easy. For rods, all you do is remove the pan/pick up/windage tray and from there you can access the rod bolts. Just need to be EXTREMELY careful not to scratch the crank.
For head bolts, all you do is remove the head, install the studs hand tight, install a new headgasket, set the head down and torque the nuts down. Good idea at that point to check for flatness of the block and head. If its beyond manufacturers specs, parts will need to be machined.
Regarding the intake manifold, yes, you can run the stock ls manifold.
04-29-2011, 10:57 PM
#27
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: toronto
Posts: 370
wouldnt it be advisable to get the gsr belt and wp then?>..if even i rev high 7s or even 8s... what could go wrong if i run a gsr wp+tb on a ls.. (but i am getting an ls wp+tb.)..just want to know
crank micropolish? how much does that cost?..and any recommended shop?...how much do bearings cost? i saw some 69.99 and 105 online both KING..and i dont know the difference..i guess more reasearch.. thankss...
crank micropolish? how much does that cost?..and any recommended shop?...how much do bearings cost? i saw some 69.99 and 105 online both KING..and i dont know the difference..i guess more reasearch.. thankss...
04-30-2011, 03:04 AM
#29
Had bad experience with gord bush, took my business to Canadian Cylinder Head, and honestly, I couldn't be happier with the service. Did the job quicker, cheaper and yet quality. And also, its in the same place as DMT so all cars that get built there, get engine work done at Canadian Cylinder Head.