Trans + clutch + header install

Old Apr 14, 2007 | 08:21 AM
  #1  
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Default Trans + clutch + header install

I was going to take the car out for the summer, but I knew it had trany and or clutch problems, I took it to a shop to test out and he told me for sure it was the trans. pic of the car last year



So I took the car home and started work on dropping the trans and installing a new clutch, and while I was under the car I found some other problems that I’m going to be working on, oil pan has a leak and needs a new seal + DC 4-1 header = crushed and will be replaced along with the cat.




Some picture of the work so far, I’m stuck at a bitch pin and might just take off the shifter link to make it easier after the transmissions is pulled. Picture attached.









^^^^ LOL I found this in the garage!! Spray and go tire traction!! Review will come some time next week of this amazing product.



























THE NEW TOYS







more pix soon...
Old Apr 14, 2007 | 11:19 AM
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To remove the bitch pin, remove a 12mm bolt (it'll be long and have a cone-shaped end) and use that as a punch to remove and insert the bitch pin. Done and done.
Old Apr 14, 2007 | 12:47 PM
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The trans is just about out.. when I do pull it, is it ok for the engine to just lean or should I use a jack to support it after the trans is pulled?
Old Apr 14, 2007 | 01:23 PM
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^it can lean, but not too much before you tear up your motor mount. however the motor is still supported by the other two mounts so it should be fine.

oh and to expand on what engsr said, the 12mm is one of the bolts holding in the AC compressor, pull it out, tap out the bitch pin, then put it back. good luck mang.
Old Apr 14, 2007 | 01:24 PM
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I used a jack to lower it, support it, and raise it back up.
Don't put anymore stress on other parts than you have to
Old Apr 14, 2007 | 02:11 PM
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Well its out, I got stuck hoping I would not have to remove the mount from the transmission in the picture below but man it was like 5cm and would not give.. so I had to remove that also. After that was don’t it popped out with no problems.







The bolts from the clutch looks like they are torque?? I dont have them in my sec so I done for today. Engine is supported with jack stand and wood.
Old Apr 14, 2007 | 05:40 PM
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since you have your tranny out, it's easy to get to the rear engine mount. you might want to remove it and inspect it for damage. when i pulled mine out at 200k, the metal insert that the bolt goes through was completely detached/ripped from the actual mount.

you'll need 12 point sockets to remove those bolts holding the clutch to the flywheel.
Old Apr 14, 2007 | 07:30 PM
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I’ll take a look at that.. any other things I should look for or change while I have is all gutted? I’m going to get new shifter bushings and the oil pan has a leak so I’ll replace that also.
Old Apr 14, 2007 | 07:38 PM
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that spray and go is hilarious.
Old Apr 14, 2007 | 11:13 PM
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also, aslong as you have the tranny out of the car, you can spray it down with brake cleaner or parts cleaner, and then hit it with a pressure washer. then mask off some parts and spray the tranny with a high heat silver/gray paint, it'll look like new.
Old Apr 14, 2007 | 11:38 PM
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whoa, did you like bottom out heavily or something? or was it previously lowered?
your car doesn't look lowered but yet your 4-1 got banged up pretty good.
Old Apr 15, 2007 | 09:14 AM
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I’ll clean up the transmission this week and also take out that bitch pin.. I got pissed off and just took out the whole link as you can see in the pictures.

The car is lowered, I bottomed out about 2 years ago on the QEW. I don’t know how much this transmission is going to cost to get fixed I’ll find out in a few days, then I start looking for a new header. JDM 4-1 looks like a good pick but I see a lot of them for sale with the same problem that I had.. a lot of them seem to get crushed because they seem to hang so low. The other option is the Rage header, but it’s a bit pricy and then my 3rd option is the Megan Racing header that seems to be making some good numbers for a good price.

Also thanks for the tip dc24me about the 12 point going to rip out the clutch in a few and see how it looks.
Old Apr 15, 2007 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by levi
The car is lowered, I bottomed out about 2 years ago on the QEW. I don’t know how much this transmission is going to cost to get fixed
what's wrong with the tranny? you might want to clean the case now, make sure the fluid inside is topped up and put it right side up on some clean cardboard or newspaper. make sure you didn't crack your transmission case. been there, done that...
Old Apr 15, 2007 | 03:16 PM
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The problems started about 6 months ago.. downshifting into 2nd gear from 3rd. 1st to 2nd is fine but after I go into 3rd, the 2nd gear is locked out and will not go back in until the car comes to a full stop. Also a problem with reverse, I start to roll the car back in reverse gear and when I press the clutch the car should keep on rolling but it comes to an urgent stop. From looking at the clutch it looks to be ok.. it had a small chip by the spring picture included. But I don’t think that would cause the problems, also any way to test the throw out bearing to see if its bad? I’m going to replace it but just wanted to know if that could have been one of the problems.

Old Apr 15, 2007 | 06:35 PM
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and you've had this car for how long? Damn! It's good to know that you're willing to "get down and dirty" with your car!
Old Apr 15, 2007 | 07:19 PM
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This is a 98 GSR I picked it up in 2000 with 42,000 on it. When I made the deal the guy hands me the keys to the car I had to tell him “ I cant drive stick can you drive it to my house” He laughed in my face The car now has 165,000 on the original clutch. This is my 1st time doing a trany drop and clutch install.. the only other thing I did on the car is oil changes and brakes.. so I was reluctant to start this job.. but its worked out fine so far.. bit by bit after work and proper tools. I’m thinking fixing the transmission problems also.. but I’ll have to read over the shop manual again to see if its something I should ever consider.

Edit: after looking at the shop manual I dont think I'm going to risk working on the trans, I have an option to get a used LS trans for about $350, would I see a big difference in the LS gearing from the GSR? I dont race the car but I like the pep is has and I'm worried if I get the LSI would I see a significant difference? Anyone with some info on this?

Last edited by levi; Apr 16, 2007 at 10:37 AM.
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 12:13 PM
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your gears would be longer with an ls, its a little better on gas, but it totally defeats the purpose of having the GSR, hondas of course make their power from revving
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 12:18 PM
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ill take that header off your hands if your looking to get rid of it
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 12:22 PM
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Damn, that bay has seen better days. Give her some tlc while youre at it man!
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by levi
This is a 98 GSR I picked it up in 2000 with 42,000 on it. When I made the deal the guy hands me the keys to the car I had to tell him “ I cant drive stick can you drive it to my house” He laughed in my face The car now has 165,000 on the original clutch. This is my 1st time doing a trany drop and clutch install.. the only other thing I did on the car is oil changes and brakes.. so I was reluctant to start this job.. but its worked out fine so far.. bit by bit after work and proper tools. I’m thinking fixing the transmission problems also.. but I’ll have to read over the shop manual again to see if its something I should ever consider.

Edit: after looking at the shop manual I dont think I'm going to risk working on the trans, I have an option to get a used LS trans for about $350, would I see a big difference in the LS gearing from the GSR? I dont race the car but I like the pep is has and I'm worried if I get the LSI would I see a significant difference? Anyone with some info on this?

yea, you'll notice a difference, the LS tranny is lonnnnngggg....and the GSR is alot shorter, hence why you get more acceleration with the GSR tranny.
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 02:24 PM
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Nice use of socks!
Old Apr 18, 2007 | 09:47 AM
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I wanted to take off the flywheel but it keeps on spinning, I seen that you can get a took that will help with locking it, but any other way? Also a good place to get it resurfaced?

Ok I got the flywheel off and resurfaced, I also got a used trans from a shop in Berrie with a 90 day warranty. I'm about to install it and my questing is can I do any tests to see if the trans is ok before I put the car all back together? Or is a test drive the only way to tell if this trans is going to be ok?

Last edited by levi; Apr 25, 2007 at 06:59 PM.
Old Apr 25, 2007 | 07:00 PM
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bump
Old Apr 25, 2007 | 07:16 PM
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^
put your rachet and socket on the pulley bolt and when you work on the flywheel bolts, it will turn lightly and then jam into place and hit the front frame rail. otherwise, i think ct has a pulley bolt holder...

what tranny did you end up picking up? because wildoutgsr has his gsr tranny fs in the fs forum.
Old Apr 27, 2007 | 12:36 PM
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Quick update, I got the trans in and just about all the pluming, I found something interesting in my oil pan, anyone know what part this could have chipped from?


Another picture of it


Also the top bold on this picture seemed to go in fine but then seemed to jump and get cross thread, and when I try to pull it back out it just spins, but it wont go in all the way and it has about a 2mm gap, would this be a big problem?


And this is why you should not work at 1am on a car



Old Apr 27, 2007 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by levi
Also the top bold on this picture seemed to go in fine but then seemed to jump and get cross thread, and when I try to pull it back out it just spins, but it wont go in all the way and it has about a 2mm gap, would this be a big problem?
Did you try a different bolt? If you want to try and chase the threads in the hole with a tap, you can do that too.

Otherwise, just throw a couple of washers on the head and make use of all the thread engagement you can. If you're really paranoid, add some loctite.
Old Apr 27, 2007 | 01:13 PM
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The problem is that I cant seem to get it out now.. it gets about 50% out and then just starts to spin. All the other bolts are in with no problems so I dont think it will effect it in any way, the bolt attached to the trans is in tight and the bracket has no play at all, so for now I'll move on and check back in a few months to make sure its not going to fall off.. Uhh very frustrating... thanks for the help.
Old Apr 27, 2007 | 01:24 PM
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Ahh....then the threads are screwed. If you can pry while backing it out you should be able to remove it, but you'll have to re-tap the hole afterwards.
Old Apr 28, 2007 | 09:28 PM
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Ok car back together, I have a problem. Car is on, clutch pressed its fine.. when I release the clutch it starts to make a whining sound AVI file attached. I took it for a quick test drive all gears go in fine clutch grips fine, the only problem is that noise. Any one? WTF could this be..
Kill me now..

www.tdma.ca/gsr/1.avi
Old May 7, 2007 | 09:42 AM
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Just wanted to give an update, after installing a new transmissions I found out that It needed some bearings replaced. I got a free LS transmission that was sitting for a few years with bad bearings, I used this transmission to get a better understanding on how to take it apart and put it back together before I start work on the GRS transmission.

Before I started I did some garage clean up

Before



After



As you can see the magnet has a few small parts on it





Testing some clearance







You can see we have a problem

The magnet with all the bearing parts

Bearing puller and bearing splitter


The main shaft top and counter shaft




And a new toy I picked up


I was able to put back the main shaft and counter shaft with no press, I used a torch to heat up the gears that had problems sliding back on, I then took it apart again and put it back just to get used to it. So far so good in a few days I'll put it all back and seal up the trans.

Last edited by levi; May 7, 2007 at 12:29 PM.
Old May 12, 2009 | 07:52 AM
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I'm going to bring this back from the dead. After working on my transmission 2 years ago I had some problems with 2nd gear popping out I replaced a few things and it was working fine for about a year. Right from the start I noticed a very quiet whining sound when it was in 5th gear. I just took the car out for the summer and its gotten much louder, I have a feeling its the bearings and I think my problem is that I did not shim it correctly because I just dont know how to. I looked at the shop manual but at the shimming part I’m lost. IF anyone has any experience with this it would be appreciated as I’m going to rip out the trans again and try to fix the problem.

Also can this be moved to "Integra Technical Questions and Tips"
Old May 12, 2009 | 08:40 AM
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WOW, how is it going?
Old May 12, 2009 | 09:46 AM
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I got it back together, its been running fine for over a year.. its still running fine now but I just have this whining sound and I have a feeling its the bearings, so I'll rip it out again but this time I want to be 100% sure I know how to shim it so that I hope this will be the best time I have to take it down. This was my 1st transmission that I ever worked out and I guess I made a mistake. I'll have it pulled fix the problems and get it back in a weekend, just need help with the shims, and how to get the measurements.
Old May 12, 2009 | 02:49 PM
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Holy crap. Looks like you got some serious job. Keep posting, plus more pictures.
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