D.T.P. Build Thread [pictures]
06-16-2010, 04:08 PM
#1
D.T.P. Build Thread [pictures]
So here is the build thread. It has been long overdue. So here it goes, after getting rid of the DA integra i had i picked up a 92 hatch with a b20 swap.
Got myself some coilovers, Falken ze912, Blox lower control arm and a lower tie bar.
So looking pretty clean now, time for real mods soon.
Went to the track just to see what it would run.
Ok enough of this. So i started a b20vtec project, seeing how i would spend a lot of money at the machine shop and the power outcome would not be nowhere close i started thinking of alternatives.
So i picked up another b20b block and a b16 head.
Got it up on a stand and started taking it apart.
Checked the bearing clearance and its still good and within factory spec.
Cleaned up the pistons AND here is the solution for the possible lack of power i was thinking about.
Got the turbo for a very good price, couldnt say no. From what I've read about this turbo, it is good for about 400whp so hopefully my information is right. Either way, the engine will see probably around 250-260whp. Still very many things left to get and I'm hoping ill have this done by September.
Let me know what you guys think.
Got myself some coilovers, Falken ze912, Blox lower control arm and a lower tie bar.
So looking pretty clean now, time for real mods soon.
Went to the track just to see what it would run.
Ok enough of this. So i started a b20vtec project, seeing how i would spend a lot of money at the machine shop and the power outcome would not be nowhere close i started thinking of alternatives.
So i picked up another b20b block and a b16 head.
Got it up on a stand and started taking it apart.
Checked the bearing clearance and its still good and within factory spec.
Cleaned up the pistons AND here is the solution for the possible lack of power i was thinking about.
Got the turbo for a very good price, couldnt say no. From what I've read about this turbo, it is good for about 400whp so hopefully my information is right. Either way, the engine will see probably around 250-260whp. Still very many things left to get and I'm hoping ill have this done by September.
Let me know what you guys think.
06-16-2010, 04:18 PM
#3
Thanks, i cant wait to put this thing in the car. Still need pretty much everything for turbo except the actual turbo. got a quote for 300$ for a custom log manifold. Also need a clutch, ARP bottom and head bolts, mounts, headgasket, water pump and timing belt and also bunch of gaskets/seals. So...yeah a load of $ is still needed.
Not sure about the stickers on the hatch...
06-16-2010, 04:23 PM
#5
The Hatch with no smoking stickers came with the car and also got an extra one in original colour. Now that hatch with stickers has a long history that originated from my good friend and by a fluke it came back to me after it has been through i believe 3 more hands. haha
06-16-2010, 04:39 PM
#6
WOAH WOAH WAOH. LOOL> Remember I said 12-13's in the summer? THat was waaaaaaay faster than I thought. Nice man. I wanna ride shotty in the car again but this time with Boost! it'll be deadly. loool
06-16-2010, 09:26 PM
#9
Administrator
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Observation deck...
Posts: 1,228
The Hatch with no smoking stickers came with the car and also got an extra one in original colour. Now that hatch with stickers has a long history that originated from my good friend and by a fluke it came back to me after it has been through i believe 3 more hands. haha
Good build thread.
06-17-2010, 08:43 PM
#16
Well the reason I'm doing this is because I'm tired of hearing how sleeves are weak, but that usually comes from somebody who has no first hand experience.
yes many B20v projects blow up but that's because year engines get revved to insane rpm with no or minimal tune. Most of the knowledgeable people I've talked to say B20v turbo'ed is ok as long as tune is good. I'm sure at 250whp the engine will be fine. If not I got the B20 in the car which I will keep incase it doesn't work out. Or maybe ls-vtec. We'll just have to wait and see.
yes many B20v projects blow up but that's because year engines get revved to insane rpm with no or minimal tune. Most of the knowledgeable people I've talked to say B20v turbo'ed is ok as long as tune is good. I'm sure at 250whp the engine will be fine. If not I got the B20 in the car which I will keep incase it doesn't work out. Or maybe ls-vtec. We'll just have to wait and see.
06-17-2010, 09:46 PM
#17
Well, its not inexperienced people that say this. It's actually the case. B20 is a bored out version of the b18 which in turns thin out and weaken the sleeve walls. As a "truck" motor, it is also not meant to be revved high that is why you already know this isn't going to be a high revving motor. Yes a tune is what keeps the car running good and fine but it still doesn't do anything about the sleeves.. but at 250 its not gonna go bad.
06-18-2010, 12:12 AM
#19
Let's just say I've done enough research and people who assured me that it'll be fine were people who were modding cars for well over 10years.
Now by inexperienced I ment people who hear things and just jump on bandwagon without actually knowing what they are talking about.
Yes you are right the sleeves are weaker in B20 and aren't that reliable, but with revs lower down it'll stay cool or atleast should. There are few reasons why sleeves crack. Things like no oil squirters like all vtec motors or the not so perfect rod/stroke ratio. So with these issues, once you start revving to 9000rpm failure is inevitable.
The suggested block guard is a maybe still, the only issue is heatsoak. Though the golden eagle block guard has cutouts for coolant to get to the top of the sleeve I am still somewhat unsure.
And in the end all I want is a year of fun with this engine and most likely ill have something else after that.
Now by inexperienced I ment people who hear things and just jump on bandwagon without actually knowing what they are talking about.
Yes you are right the sleeves are weaker in B20 and aren't that reliable, but with revs lower down it'll stay cool or atleast should. There are few reasons why sleeves crack. Things like no oil squirters like all vtec motors or the not so perfect rod/stroke ratio. So with these issues, once you start revving to 9000rpm failure is inevitable.
The suggested block guard is a maybe still, the only issue is heatsoak. Though the golden eagle block guard has cutouts for coolant to get to the top of the sleeve I am still somewhat unsure.
And in the end all I want is a year of fun with this engine and most likely ill have something else after that.
06-18-2010, 08:49 AM
#20
Moderator
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Where my car is.
Posts: 724
^Yeah, I decided to not use a block guard. From what I understand and have read, they are more for bigger higher hp builds where they're pushing 9000rpm+ and 300-400hp+.
In the 200-300whp range, I don't think they are necessary imo.
In the 200-300whp range, I don't think they are necessary imo.
06-21-2010, 05:38 PM
#21
*UPDATE*
Went out and picked up ARP head studs and ARP rod bolts [rod bolts will be in tomorrow] and also Skunk2 Pro series cam gears. GE vtec conversion kit is also on the way. Should have next week or so.
Went out and picked up ARP head studs and ARP rod bolts [rod bolts will be in tomorrow] and also Skunk2 Pro series cam gears. GE vtec conversion kit is also on the way. Should have next week or so.
10-07-2010, 06:12 PM
#23
So it was supposed to be a simple clutch swap. But it all went south.
Removed the halfshaft and all this fell out.
Bunch of metal pieces on the floor.
So yanked the engine out, got the transmission apart and took the clutch off. Enjoy
The release bearing shaved the diaphragm a lot, half the fingers arent even leveled.
One clip off the release bearing was broken off.
The spring in the clutch was sticking half way out and shaved the flywheel bolts...
And here is the housing of the transmission after i took it apart.
Removed the halfshaft and all this fell out.
Bunch of metal pieces on the floor.
So yanked the engine out, got the transmission apart and took the clutch off. Enjoy
The release bearing shaved the diaphragm a lot, half the fingers arent even leveled.
One clip off the release bearing was broken off.
The spring in the clutch was sticking half way out and shaved the flywheel bolts...
And here is the housing of the transmission after i took it apart.
10-09-2010, 07:13 AM
#28
missing metal pieces equal weight reduction. oh and we installed the new tranny last night... all went smooth until we filled her up with fluid, i will let martin explain the rest
10-09-2010, 10:44 AM
#29
Yeah, found 2 cracks in the housing. So...I'm keeping the gears from old tranny, may order some synchros, guy said he's gonna get me a case and ill have a mint freshly rebuild b16 trans.
Now for time being the gsr trans got jb weld as temporary fix.
Sooooo pissed of.
Now for time being the gsr trans got jb weld as temporary fix.
Sooooo pissed of.
02-26-2011, 07:45 AM
#32
Due to interest change, money issue, and different priorities it has taken a turn. the engine is still getting built slowly. Everything is ready except still need crank/rod bearings/rings/water pump/timing belt, and she will be ready to go. Got a gsr transmission to go with it and a new clutch to go with it. Spring time it will get installed as simple b20v with phk pistons. Though its not going in my car. It will be another members car, who doesn't really (ever) go on here. The turbo I'm keeping for a different car that will be coming around spring time.
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