Christmas came early...
 

Post man delivered a few goodies today...

http://www3.sympatico.ca/babynsx/pics/IMG-1005-3826.jpg

http://www3.sympatico.ca/babynsx/pics/IMG-1005-3830.jpg

Ferrea vs TypeR valves
http://www3.sympatico.ca/babynsx/pics/IMG-1005-3832.jpg

what I have so far:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/babynsx/pics/IMG-1005-3834.jpg

engine is comming out soon...

Hmmm I could use those cams.... and you live.......Where?! :D


James

nice parts, but i don't understand the reasoning behind the cam gears and stage 1 camshafts? aren't they the exact same as the R?

:headbang:

LOL...

NICE doug! another motor build! wOOt! u doing the work yourself?

They are far far far far away from stage 1 cams.

In order from smallest to biggest

Skunk 2 Stage 1 = Similar to ITR Cams and Close to Buddy Club Spec 3's
Skunk 2 Stage 2 = Blox B and close to JUN 3's
Skunk 2 Stage 3

Skunk 2 PRO 1 = makes more power all over than Buddy Club Spec 4's
Skunk 2 PRO 2
Skunk 2 PRO 3

Notice how after stage 2 there's nothing on the market to compare them to. They're that aggressive.



Doug those are my piston :shocked:

What Doug...no white dove?

LMAO

damn good stuff. I was wondering how the build was going.

oh my bad, didn't see they where the pro version.

somebody has deep pockets, or deep debt!

Damm... you mean I've got to pay for this stuff :P Dept is a way of life when you own a house...

A couple more pics:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/babynsx/pics/IMG-1005-3837.jpg

http://www3.sympatico.ca/babynsx/pics/IMG-1005-3841.jpg

those pictures are beautiful.

+1

wow..good stuff good stuff.

OH! so that's what I'm supposed to spend my money on.
Thank you for showing me the light!

I'm I crazy to say that I'm more fascinated with the pictures themselves rather than what the picture is actually of? Damn, I needs to get a DSLR ...

doug only u can make engine parts look sexy lol.....anyways good luck with the build over the winter

Joe

hahaha...sure beats my shitty webcam pics of my pistons..LOL

---- i gotta get my ass in gear.

Excellent.... if everything goes well, I'll have the exact same setup next summer....

Doug, tis a slippery slope indeed that you are going down. New ITR tranny, motor rebuild...
Where is the new water pump, toda timing belt, toda oil pump gear, and the RC injectors, along with the fuel pressure regulator?

While you are at why not get a nice manifold and a nice tapered TB. And since you are getting the mani, may as well get some port work done, and the list goes on and on

RC injectors are already here (in the picture showing the part collection)

Slippery indeed :P Here are my build plans (copied over from Honda-Tech):

Head:
- Fully port and polished by Gord Busch Performance (in Mississauga)
- Port matched intake manifold
- Skunk2 Pro1 cams
- Skunk2 Pro cam gears
- Ferrea +1mm intake valves
- Ferrea exhaust valves
- Ferrea valve springs
- Ferrea Ti retainers
- Ferrea Seat locators
- Ferrea Valve locks
- ARP head studs

Bottome end:
- Weseco Pistons (81.5mm 5cc)
- Carrillo Rods
- Greddy timing belt (or PE)
- new oil pump, water pump etc...

Other:
- RC 440 injectors
- Honda Bearings
- Honda Valve seals
- Honda head gasket

Parts already on the car:
- Mugen intake
- Mugen twin loop
- High-flow cat
- Spoon header
- Hondata S300
- PLX R-500

Im with Bryan, those pics are crisp!! How much power do you think your car will put down after the rebuild?

I'll be disapointed if I don't break 200WHP and very pleased if I clear 215...

Good luck with the build. I hope you attain the power you're looking for :yeah:

Nice parts and pics!!

DAN

hmm, I don't see new lost motion assemblies on that list. Considering that you are putting in higher lift cams, replacing them while you are doing the head would be a good idea.

Wouldn't swapping in a K20 be cheaper?

^LOL You make it sound so cheap and easy!

damn doug, the pics make the parts look even better, good luck on the build!

Staying with the B series power plant would be more in keeping with the Type R spirit....

^^ There is a DC5 R you know with a K20

me too (my car), nice Baby NSX

What kinda CR you gonna get with those pistons? 11.5? 12?

Understood. The reason why I made that statement is because I asked Doug the same question, (re: K series swap) and that is what he mentioned to me, however, there might be other reasons for his B series build vs K swap.

What if I break 215 :p :D

That won't happen while you are dropping money for parts with no gain in HP:laugh1: You might as well hard park with fuzzy with those, because now they just "bling" :lol:

hey hey hey hey hey hey....hey.......ATLEAST I DON'T HAVE ANGEL EYES ON MY CAR!!!!!!!!





































ricer :finger:

:laugh1: Your just bitter that you spent X amount of money on the M3 for 330hp and still loose to a china man & black man driving a civic with 90hp :finger:


Plus the wasted money on the key fob activated angel eyes :willy::spit:

This thread is making me laugh now…

Trenell… bring it on baby :P

Guys, don’t fuss over Wayne… he’s just an M3 elitist :O

About the K series swap… I have a philosophical problem with dropping them into the DC2 chassis, particularly the R. The B18C5 is the heart and sole of the TypeR. While I may be giving mine a major tune-up I believe the basic DNA is still there. If I drop another engine in the car (or even bore the C5 to 2.0l) then I feel I have removed an important part of my car.

Anyone can add boost, NOS, and displacement to solve their power needs, buts those options don't fit for me. I will not have the fastest Honda around, and others may spend less and get a heck of a lot more power then me… not a problem for me.

I’m in this for the sport, when I’m finished with the build I can stand beside my car and know it’s truly mine! Dropping an already build K series motor would not give me that same thrill.

Haha, I think I beat that china man last time out, now its only a matter of beating you at Comp on the 15th :GrinDev:
I offered the china man a co-drive too, so it might be both of us beating up on you :p

Don't hate the angel eyes, you know you want them to fit in with the ricers in Whitby :willy: I

The filipino man will beat all at Comp.

Who wants to drive the Miata this time at COMP?

:D

nice set up. Carillo Rods and Ferrea VT? somebody is ballin' heavy. the only thing i don't like about the set up are the cams. if you are looking for big peak numbers, you won't get them from P1's and, they are not a mild mannered cam. i'm a bit under 200whp thru the cat with P1's and they are too much for my aging self. P1's should use no less than 12.0/1 c.r. to work well, with the obvious supporting mods. i can tell you one thing, you took ur ---- to the best machinist out there. GB knows it. trust me. i think Blox b's would have been a better choice, but, P1's are still decent. your low-midrange will be monsterous, but, above 6K Jun3, Blox b/S2S2, BC 4, M22x, Toda C will make more uptop on your particular setup. either way, it looks great. g/l with your goals. keep in mind, an honest 200whp (dynojet) out of a 1.8L is in no way easy. regardless of what you see. many of the bloated 210-220whp graphs from the u.s are hub readings (dynopacks). what header are you going to use?

on a side note, BC 4 > S2 P1....day and night.

on a 1.8L, BC 3+, S2S2, S2S1 will produce a broader powerband the S2P1's on 95% of the set ups on the road today. lastly, Toad D, Jun 4's, BC 5 & 6, some of Rocket and Crower cams are as big or bigger than S2P2 & P3. advertised duration is misleading, as is lift and duration in general. more dosn't mean ----. S2S2's Intake cam actually measures 257 degrees@1mm. Intake open 22 BTDC, close 55 ABDC, 106.5 degrees lobe center. when calculated, the actual duration of the cam is 257, not the 266 advertised duration. and the lift is 12.1mm when mic'd. not the advertised 12.3mm. i'm going off of specs i got a few years ago, but its something like that. lastly, as much as people want to believe Blox b/S2S2 are the same as Jun 3's..this is untrue. the most ignored and unknown fact about vtec cam design is ramp speed/flank angle of the lobes. and i'll tell you from now, i know for a fact that Jun 3 are not the same as the b's and s2's. they are close, but, different. i just find it funny how, at the end of the day, Jun 3 and Toda C (C2 now) still make some of the best power from 6-9K. the design is about a decade old and all that cam manufacturers are doing is working off of those 2 profiles. more the Jun than the Toda's, but, whatever. what i'm trying to say is overcamming exists. and, on a 1.8L, you don't need a huge cam to make power, you need a dope ass, near perfect combo of parts.

^^ And you are?

Someone whos knows what the hell he is talking about or a really really good horse-shitter....

Word, I wasn't going based upon advertised specs. The thing with this site is most don't give a damn about the exact specs and how it works, they just want to get a general idea of what the outcome would be and how it compares to other cams/parts out there.

The thing I disagree about in your post, is the fact that skunk 2 pro 1's would make less power than the buddy clubs spec 3's. We both know it depends on the other supporting parts they have installed. In the end though, the skunk 2 pro 1's would kill the buddy clubs spec 3's with the proper supportive mods.

This is so true, but I've noticed no one ever listens. They read it, but it doesn't sink in.

http://www.skunk2.com/raceShop/images/dyno1.gif

Here ya Go.

that guy knows his ----, met him once and seems to be very informative. and he prolly has the fastest allmotor gen2 in toronto.

That graph is so inaccurate it's not even funny.

Look Here http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1135465

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1141681

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1338293



Doug any progress pics?

This thread has come along way since I left for the weekend…

I agree whole heartedly about what has been posted so far. My selection of parts (including cams) comes from a lot of research and recommendations from Gord Bush himself as well as other qualified opinions. As you can clearly see I didn’t let costs factor heavily into my decisions…

Peak numbers do not mean much to me as this engine is being built for a track day car. A strong mid range will be much more useful for me.

I trust Gord suggested the Pro1 cams perhaps due to how he feels you can make the head work with them, and knowing my objectives with the build. There are likely a dozen cams I could have chosen for this build, each with their own strengths and weaknesses.

I’ve spoken at length to Skunk2 about cam selection and they assure me that I am not over caming the engine; in fact they suggested Pro2s would have made even more power. I opted for the Pro1 cams simply to put less stress on the valve train (my engine will spend a considerable amount of time above 7k RPM).

Nightstick,
I’m likely going to be running a full race SMSP header with this engine…