MaFiAbOy

Its a B18c1 in a 1989 Civic Si (40 lbs lighter than 90-91 Si:*****:

JDM B16 (P30) or JDM ITR Pistons (Friction Coated) Sandblasted. Im gonna have to send the block and pistons in to the machine shop to get fully re-surfaced, sandblasted and to get them to make the bore of the piston hole (where the connecting rod connects to) a bit bigger in diameter so the pistons will mount on the connecting rod. Now I wont need to bore block or change pistons rings cause most USDM and JDM Piston rings are the same size. Im gonna have the block inspected thoroughly for cracks, chips, clearances, balanced (maybe) etc. And fully cleaned. Brand new ARP Rod Bolts, Main caps, all new bearings (main, rod), Brand new GSR oil pump, water pump all new gaskets.
ITR Flywheel (resurfaced for brand new clutch), probably do the rear main seal, resurface the deck and whatever else neets to be done to the block

As for the head...For now, lol, Im gonna try to get me some ITR Valvetrain and make sure I send that head into a real good shop for P&P and a super good cleaning inside and out. AEM Cam Gears, ARP Head bolts, dont know what timing belt to get (cause I dont want that bitch to snap), ITR or stock Intake Manifold and TB (62mm for ITR)

After this is all said and done TUNE TUNE TUNE!!! and ya i know its gonna cost around $4000 but ---- it. In a EF hatch its all worth it and hopefully beat the "BIG" guy with the back DA that races supercharged mustangs AND KEEPS UP!!!

As for the Trannie I got a crazy deal on a B17 Cable Trannie (92-93 GSR) that I might grab but do u guys think I should change the pilot bearing before I put it in and why?

Please any other suggestions that u guys (and Greek) have dont be afraid cause I want the best possible N/A (no turbo) setup possible. If u recommend me doing something else just put it down

U guys think i would need Traction bars?

RRRex

You should spend your money on a close-ratio LSD tranny (not a 4.2FD tranny), suspension and tires. Then build up a motor. Seems a waste to sink so much money into a motor and not get the most out of the power.

Be sure you use a reputable engine builder. They're worth their weight in gold - don't cheap out. A B20VTEC is pretty cheap - you just can't rev it.

MaFiAbOy

I just bought Brand new Low Profile tires and i have Tein SS Coilovers (Full, 16 way adjustable dampening)

WildoutWhiteGSR

You didn't mention any cams & valvesprings, what would you be running.

For sure get rid of the stock gsr manifold, if your going to add cams, if not just leave it.


You got pretty much everything covered, only thing I can think of is, buy a full brand new gasket kit for the bottom end and head. New front and rear main seals.

A oem timing belt will be fine, but to make sure it would help if you mentioned what cams you'd be running. If there the Toda B's or C's then for sure buy the Toda timing belt.

A new throttle body isn't all to important since for the $200 you spend in boring it out, you'll gain about 3-6whp, not much at all.

Either buy new fuel injectors or get your old ones cleaned and balanced.

Check to see what kinda condition your stock motor mounts are in.

Then you can add little things like
-motor mount inserts
-hondata intake manifold gasket
-new bushing for your swaybar, endlinks, upper and lower control arm
-for sure a new cam plug seal
-fuel pressure regulator
-fuel pressure gauge
-new oem thermostat

but otherwise your pretty good to go, you have most things covered

MaFiAbOy

Im still not sure what cams im gonna go with but I think im gonna use brand new OEM ITR valves, some aftermarket valve springs and u think titanium retainers would be good?

As for the injectors that is what im debationg right now If i shoulf get some bigger injectors. Intake manifold im just gonna either pick up a Skunk one or AEBS and later on grab some ITB's

Also if the motor didnt come with any engine harness how would I go about fixing that problem?

WildoutWhiteGSR

Titanium retainers are good, if you plan on revving higher than 8500rpm or plan on bouncing off the rev limiter a lot, ie auto-x. If not stock is fine.


You buy injectors based upon your wheel horsepower goal, so that you don't exceed a injector duty cycle of 85%. If you don't get cams, don't get injectors. If you get big cams, you'll need injectors.

ITB's are a whole new monster. Expect to pay an additional $3000 in the end for ITB's and tuning. I want them to, but that'll be like the very last thing I do.

If the motor didn't come with a harness, your gonna have to buy a new one from the dealership.

SMOOTHE

dang son you must be a baller....Skunk 2 or AEBS manifold then just switch it up to ITB's. There's a new ----- in town.

MaFiAbOy

Wildoutgisser: I was doing some research on Honda-tech and I saw the post about the cam specs and with the Dyno graphs...http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1622680&page=1 The Toda C's have a way better torque span and thats what Im looking compared the HP the C's and the Pro 1's are pretty much even throughout the graph except the fact that the C's have the better edge.

I dont even have the motor yet but Im gonna start to sum up all of the parts then when a nice fresh motor comes along the way Im gonna grab it. My other question is should I go with OBD1 or OBD2? I heard somewhere that the OBD1 ECU is better for Tuning but I wouldnt mind getting an OBD1 motor since I already have the OBD0 to OBD1 Conversion Harness but an OBD2 motor would have the benefit cause of the KM's?

Im looking to achieve a 12+:1 C/R so I want some "chunky" cams to benefit

SMOOTHE: All my money is going into this build!!!

WildoutWhiteGSR

There is no benefit to OBD2 except emissions. Once you start modding that goes out the window and OBD2 is useless.

Remember peak horsepower means ----. 90% of the time when your driving around town/auto-x your never shift that high. It's all about what's under the curve. Plus you won't notice 5hp up top, if the person your racing is already beating you because he has more power down low.

Notice in that thread, the first graph was impressive of the Toda C's compared to the Skunk 2 PRO 1's, but once he tuned the Skunk 2 PRO's some more it's a no brainer. Both cams stop making power at 8200-8400 rpm and from 0-6000rpm the Skunk 2 have more power, but from 6000-8400 the Toda's win. Which cam has a longer torque span? The skunks of course. Don't worry about peak figures.

Remember it takes almost twice as much horsepower to catch a car, that is already beating you. Think of it when running the 4 by 1 relay at school. If your the last one that receives the stick and your loosing the race, how much harder did it require you to run, just to catch the guy, but you know in your head, if from the beginning had you been starting, it would be your team that had the lead and all the rest of the team had to do was maintain it.

Also don't limit yourself to that dyno alone.
Check out:
-Buddy Club Spec 4
-Toda B's
-Jun 3's
-Skunk 2 Stage 2/Blox B's
-Rocket Motorsports M22x

MaFiAbOy

I would like to see a chart comparison between the Stage 2's and the Jun 3's and the Buddy Clubs IV

Will a Better fuel pump be necessary? If ya then I would need to upgrade my injectors right? I dont get how the "cc's" for the fuel injectors work and which one to choose cause there is different sizes of cc's

If no then u think stock gsr injectors would be good with a aftermarket fuel rail? Would they be able to hold that pressure?

To help for the low end power, Im thinking of getting some DC 4-2-1 Headers. I dont wanna go 4-1 cause then I would need new tires for that massive boost in the mid-range

Can anybody vouch for ProStreetOnline.com for ordering parts?? Any good places in Toronto or surrounding area to get performance parts from?

WildoutWhiteGSR

The skunk 2 stage 2 and jun 3's are basically identicle. Most of the average setups have the same peak numbers along with the same torque curve.

Now as for the Buddy Club Spec 4's they have bigger primary lobes which means a lot more low end to mid range power. So the Buddy Club Spec 4's beat them there. Then the skunk 2 stage 2's, jun 3's and buddy club spec 4's all have the same vtec lobe. So the peak horsepower is all in the same range +/- 5 horsepower depending on the supporting mods.


It's it absoluly nessecary to get a upgraded fuel pump. No, but I highly recommend that you do. You'll only put more stress on the rest of the fuel system and the walbro in-tank pumps are cheap, like $90.

For any of these cams you'll for sure need fuel injectors. Any size between 360cc-440cc is fine. Stock integra injectors are rated at 240cc. Basically as the number before the cc go up, the more fuel that injector flows. The stock fuel injectors max out around 180-190whp depending on the pressure your running and how high your redline is.

An aftermarket fuel rail is for looks, unless your going turbo, you won't ever flow enough fuel through your stock one to max it out. The stock fuel rail is good for 300whp.

nightstick

Eugene at Prostreet is legit. i remember seeing that dude on MTV years back terrorizing people with his 4 door teg. anyway, 270-310cc injectors are fine. oem fuel rail is fine. 190LPH fuel pump is good enough. if you are going with a 4-2-1 header, your only REAL options are Vibrant J-spec 4-2-1, Profab, Rage, SMS shelf, jg/edelbrock w/2.5" collector. first, i must st8 that every motor is different, so don't judge a cams perfermance by someone else's set-up. lastly, out of the cams that you listed, BC4's will most likely have the broadest powerband. but, i love JUN3's, just not the price.