Vavle Question
08-21-2007, 03:56 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2007
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Vavle Question
I've done a couple searches, but didn't really find what I'm after. I hope you guys can help.
I bought my 2001 ITR about 6 months ago. After I purchased it, the previous owner mentioned that "it might have aftermarket valves and springs" installed by the first owner.
I'm currently looking to get a valve adjustment done. If indeed the current valves are aftermarket, i'd like them repalaced with OEM equipment.
I don't know much about this kind of thing, and am trying to wrap my head around exactly what swapping valves would mean to my desire to have them back to stock. Is it just a swap with a lighter valve, or could it be a differnt shape. If it is a different shape, I'd assume some machining of the head would have had to be done, so I won't be able to go back to stock. How do I determine this?
I went to an acura dealership and they shop out the valve work. They said they would have to send the head to the machine shop to be measured to determine if they could return it to stock. Then to do so would cost a few hours labour at Acura, about 9 hours labour at the machine shop, plus about at minimum a grand in parts if they exclude rocker arms.
Does all this seem reasonable? does anyone know another reputable shop that might be able to help me out. Do I even need to worry if their are aftermarket valves installed? I'm lost.
They gave me the following sheet:
I bought my 2001 ITR about 6 months ago. After I purchased it, the previous owner mentioned that "it might have aftermarket valves and springs" installed by the first owner.
I'm currently looking to get a valve adjustment done. If indeed the current valves are aftermarket, i'd like them repalaced with OEM equipment.
I don't know much about this kind of thing, and am trying to wrap my head around exactly what swapping valves would mean to my desire to have them back to stock. Is it just a swap with a lighter valve, or could it be a differnt shape. If it is a different shape, I'd assume some machining of the head would have had to be done, so I won't be able to go back to stock. How do I determine this?
I went to an acura dealership and they shop out the valve work. They said they would have to send the head to the machine shop to be measured to determine if they could return it to stock. Then to do so would cost a few hours labour at Acura, about 9 hours labour at the machine shop, plus about at minimum a grand in parts if they exclude rocker arms.
Does all this seem reasonable? does anyone know another reputable shop that might be able to help me out. Do I even need to worry if their are aftermarket valves installed? I'm lost.
They gave me the following sheet:
08-21-2007, 04:03 PM
#2
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Cut out the STEALERSHIP and go directly to the source. Graham at Canadian Cylinder Head can help you out. http://www.cylinderheadtech.com/
If you need more info on anything about your car..head over to ..Honda-Tech more specifically the FAQ... http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/766629
I help out people who actually do research unlike the 99% on here that want this...
PS. who did you buy the car from? what engine or aesthetic mods? It might have been abused and if the owner doesn't know ----..he/she was just trying to make a sale.
PSS. if you want more help PM wildoutwhitegsr but be paitient he is probably tearing down/building up a car or motorcycle as we speak.
If you need more info on anything about your car..head over to ..Honda-Tech more specifically the FAQ... http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/766629
I help out people who actually do research unlike the 99% on here that want this...
PS. who did you buy the car from? what engine or aesthetic mods? It might have been abused and if the owner doesn't know ----..he/she was just trying to make a sale.
PSS. if you want more help PM wildoutwhitegsr but be paitient he is probably tearing down/building up a car or motorcycle as we speak.
Last edited by SIC1; 08-21-2007 at 04:06 PM.
08-21-2007, 04:50 PM
#3
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Thanks for the info SIC1. I'll give the company a call tomorrow.
From the H-T readings, it seems likely I just have a titanium valve/spring/retainer kit. I don't know why you'd go to a bigger valve with a stock cam, but who knows.
I can't recall the user name of the guy I bought my car off of, but his name was Matt. It's '01, CW with red interior an full aero kit. It also has the crowhouse wing extension. When I bought the car the only engine mod I knew it had was an AEM intake. The car only had 20,000 km on it when I bought it, so I don't think it was too beat on, however, after poking around under the car a bit, it definitely had a full exhaust at some point and maybe suspension and probably wheels.
From the H-T readings, it seems likely I just have a titanium valve/spring/retainer kit. I don't know why you'd go to a bigger valve with a stock cam, but who knows.
I can't recall the user name of the guy I bought my car off of, but his name was Matt. It's '01, CW with red interior an full aero kit. It also has the crowhouse wing extension. When I bought the car the only engine mod I knew it had was an AEM intake. The car only had 20,000 km on it when I bought it, so I don't think it was too beat on, however, after poking around under the car a bit, it definitely had a full exhaust at some point and maybe suspension and probably wheels.
08-21-2007, 06:01 PM
#6
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all this just for a valve adjustment?
Find out what brand the valve springs/retainers are, call the manufacturer and ask what the valve lash settings are....then set them to the manufacturers spec.....its that simple.
Find out what brand the valve springs/retainers are, call the manufacturer and ask what the valve lash settings are....then set them to the manufacturers spec.....its that simple.
08-21-2007, 06:11 PM
#7
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I don't want aftermarket valve springs/retainers in there. I'd rather have everything stock. So, if there are aftermarket parts in there, it's not just a valve adjustment.
If they are stock, It sounds easy enough to do a valve adjustment, but I'd rather not do my first on a) my car and b) my only source of transportation to and from work. I'll get a pro to do it.
If they are stock, It sounds easy enough to do a valve adjustment, but I'd rather not do my first on a) my car and b) my only source of transportation to and from work. I'll get a pro to do it.
08-21-2007, 07:03 PM
#8
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Location: Mississauga
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Valve lash specs go with the camshafts... not the springs and retainers. If you have stock ITR cams, adjust lash to 0.006-0.007" intake and 0.007-0.008" exhaust.
If you don't know what is in there get a used vehicle information package and call up the old owner the decide. Aftermarket stuff could be just as good or better than OEM.
Don't waste a ---- load of cash on nothing.
If you decide to go back to OEM, get someone to take off the head then send to Gord Bush Performance. If you provide the parts it shouldn't cost more than a few hundred to resurface, valve job and reassemble the head. Street port and polish, valve job and reassembly will cost around $700.
If you don't know what is in there get a used vehicle information package and call up the old owner the decide. Aftermarket stuff could be just as good or better than OEM.
Don't waste a ---- load of cash on nothing.
If you decide to go back to OEM, get someone to take off the head then send to Gord Bush Performance. If you provide the parts it shouldn't cost more than a few hundred to resurface, valve job and reassemble the head. Street port and polish, valve job and reassembly will cost around $700.
08-21-2007, 08:02 PM
#9
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Valve lash specs go with the camshafts... not the springs and retainers. If you have stock ITR cams, adjust lash to 0.006-0.007" intake and 0.007-0.008" exhaust.
If you don't know what is in there get a used vehicle information package and call up the old owner the decide. Aftermarket stuff could be just as good or better than OEM.
Don't waste a ---- load of cash on nothing.
If you don't know what is in there get a used vehicle information package and call up the old owner the decide. Aftermarket stuff could be just as good or better than OEM.
Don't waste a ---- load of cash on nothing.
But see if you're competent to do the work yourself if your really that ---- and want OEM valve springs and retainers.
https://www.torontointegras.ca/forum...ad.php?t=16787
08-22-2007, 08:57 AM
#11
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If you don't know what is in there get a used vehicle information package and call up the old owner the decide. Aftermarket stuff could be just as good or better than OEM.
Don't waste a ---- load of cash on nothing.
If you decide to go back to OEM, get someone to take off the head then send to Gord Bush Performance. If you provide the parts it shouldn't cost more than a few hundred to resurface, valve job and reassemble the head. Street port and polish, valve job and reassembly will cost around $700.
Don't waste a ---- load of cash on nothing.
If you decide to go back to OEM, get someone to take off the head then send to Gord Bush Performance. If you provide the parts it shouldn't cost more than a few hundred to resurface, valve job and reassemble the head. Street port and polish, valve job and reassembly will cost around $700.
08-23-2007, 05:21 PM
#13
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are you planning to pull the head off yourself? if so, it would definitely be easy to inspect what valves you have. even without taking the head off, you can take off the exhaust manifold and valvecover and using a flashlight and turning the motor so the exhaust valves open see if you have any porting done to the head. or even just looking at the top of the stem where the retainer attaches and comparing it to oem or aftermarket. i really don't think it's that likely someone would put in aftermarket valves, possibly valveguides too and not do any headwork.
chances are you probably just have springs and retainers.
chances are you probably just have springs and retainers.
08-23-2007, 09:17 PM
#14
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Posts: 563
what you are trying to do makes no sense to me.......
unless there is a problem with the valve train components in the head or if they are of poor unreliable qualitly why go through all the trouble to swap out to OEM stuff?
seems like a big waste of time and money to me.....good luck
unless there is a problem with the valve train components in the head or if they are of poor unreliable qualitly why go through all the trouble to swap out to OEM stuff?
seems like a big waste of time and money to me.....good luck
08-23-2007, 09:27 PM
#15
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Well, I need a valve adjustment, so it seems like the time to look into this stuff.
My car may or may not have aftermarket valve retainers/springs, but how would I know if this is true or if what is installed is of poor unreliable quality if I don't bust it open to look at it.
Plus, I just want the car to be stock or easily reverted to stock. I'm just trying to keep it as clean as possible.
Thanks for the tips dc24me.
My car may or may not have aftermarket valve retainers/springs, but how would I know if this is true or if what is installed is of poor unreliable quality if I don't bust it open to look at it.
Plus, I just want the car to be stock or easily reverted to stock. I'm just trying to keep it as clean as possible.
Thanks for the tips dc24me.
08-23-2007, 10:22 PM
#16
n00b
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Mississauga
Posts: 86
Even if you look at the springs and retainers you probably won't be able to tell who the manufacturer is.
Just bite the bullet and change the springs and retainers out, it'll give you peace of mind. No need to remove the head for this, just pull the cams and change the springs. I would recommend replacing the timing belt when you do it since it's already half way out.
Just bite the bullet and change the springs and retainers out, it'll give you peace of mind. No need to remove the head for this, just pull the cams and change the springs. I would recommend replacing the timing belt when you do it since it's already half way out.