turboing an ls
#3
Originally Posted by dan's integra
my friend is turboing his ls and he would like too know some pros and cons by personal experiances
personally, i stay away from turbo, just because i dont have the time, to inspect under my hood every week to make sure everythings ok under there.
from what ive read the ls takes turbo well, so if it floats his boat, theres tons of material on the net.
#4
A stand alone ECU is worth its weight in gold with a turbo as is a Wide Band O2. Saves from dyno tuning and you can real world tune for your application, plus print out charts to monitor your AF.
You're adding a lot of weight in front of the drive wheels so handling will be effected. Expect a lot of understeer. Heat is another big issue. Had friends melt MC canisters, dipstick seals, turbo bolts are constantly unwinding themselves, and hood paint. Heat costs you power. Plus, more parts that can fail. You're also increasing the pressure inside the cylinders so there's increased strain on rods, bearings and pistons. Detonation is also an issue. There is a ceramic turbo that doesn't require an oil feed I believe. Costs a lot more. A standard turbo is fed oil from the oil pan - oil breaks down at 260 degrees - turbos run at 1000 plus degrees. It basically goes to the turbo to die because after it hits the turbo, it loses a lot of viscocity.
It's a cheap way of increasing displacement basically. By going 5X-10X atmosphere you're getting more AF into the motor. It's also free power since it's powered by the exhaust that's normally wasted. So is more effecient in that sense. But I'm wiht 2-6. I like NA for reliability.
You're adding a lot of weight in front of the drive wheels so handling will be effected. Expect a lot of understeer. Heat is another big issue. Had friends melt MC canisters, dipstick seals, turbo bolts are constantly unwinding themselves, and hood paint. Heat costs you power. Plus, more parts that can fail. You're also increasing the pressure inside the cylinders so there's increased strain on rods, bearings and pistons. Detonation is also an issue. There is a ceramic turbo that doesn't require an oil feed I believe. Costs a lot more. A standard turbo is fed oil from the oil pan - oil breaks down at 260 degrees - turbos run at 1000 plus degrees. It basically goes to the turbo to die because after it hits the turbo, it loses a lot of viscocity.
It's a cheap way of increasing displacement basically. By going 5X-10X atmosphere you're getting more AF into the motor. It's also free power since it's powered by the exhaust that's normally wasted. So is more effecient in that sense. But I'm wiht 2-6. I like NA for reliability.
#6
Have you ever added 30-40 pounds to the front of a car? It makes a big difference.
It's the same when you add a sub in the back.
Are you seriously gonna sit there and think that adding weight to the car isn't gonna make a difference. How about when you add another person in the car.
Sometimes I think you just type with realizing what your saying.
It's the same when you add a sub in the back.
Are you seriously gonna sit there and think that adding weight to the car isn't gonna make a difference. How about when you add another person in the car.
Sometimes I think you just type with realizing what your saying.
#12
30-40 pounds is a lot. You can tell the people that street drive there car and watch the top gear video's.
I guess 17's don't make much of a difference either. It's only like 5 pounds more per rim
I guess 17's don't make much of a difference either. It's only like 5 pounds more per rim
#15
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It's not just the weight but more importantly where it is located. It's the balance of the car to have closer to neutral steering it's all about balance.
#17
dive a teg without boost then drive one with boost and tell me the difference. If you are going to be worried about weight you have power to back it up, so why would you care about 30-40 lbs when you potentially can have double to triple the power of a midly built motor
#18
Originally Posted by boost obsessed
dive a teg without boost then drive one with boost and tell me the difference. If you are going to be worried about weight you have power to back it up, so why would you care about 30-40 lbs when you potentially can have double to triple the power of a midly built motor
#19
Originally Posted by boost obsessed
dive a teg without boost then drive one with boost and tell me the difference. If you are going to be worried about weight you have power to back it up, so why would you care about 30-40 lbs when you potentially can have double to triple the power of a midly built motor
#20
Originally Posted by boost obsessed
dive a teg without boost then drive one with boost and tell me the difference. If you are going to be worried about weight you have power to back it up, so why would you care about 30-40 lbs when you potentially can have double to triple the power of a midly built motor
#21
Originally Posted by WildoutWhiteGSR
Cuz driving fast in a straight line is boring and I don't need to make my car understeer anymore than it already does from the factory.
#22
Originally Posted by boost obsessed
if the "added" weight is causing drastic understeer causing you to go into turns a bit slower you'll make it up on a straight. If this was the case nobody would turbo a honda and use it for autox. Look at the guys from ipc 400+hp crx and that asian guy with the red g3 gsr boosted, they do just fine. Yes there guys without boost going around bends better but when a straight comes its game over
#23
30-40lbs does make a difference, when i had my rear seats out, my subs out and my CF hood on, the car feels like a go kart and it just takes off. if i weighed my subs, rear seats, and OEM hood, it'll probably weigh about 50-70lbs. sure it doesn't sound like much, but remember, 50-70lbs on a 4 cylender does make a difference.