touch up and dent removal tips
05-27-2010, 10:36 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Scarborough
Posts: 138
touch up and dent removal tips
Long story short- raccoons decided to raid my garage, and somehow, a jack stand was dropped on my hood... there's a tiny dent now with a bit of exposed metal and red paint (from the jack stand)...
I covered the dent with tape to prevent corrosion from setting in when it rains...
1. so how do I go about repairing/repainting this dent?
- use a rubber mallet to hammer out the dent
- sand the exposed area with 200 grit sand paper
- tape everything except exposed areas
- rust converter, let cure for 2 days, primer, let dry for 2 days, paint + use heat gun to dry and harden really well.
- after paint has hardened and dried, how do I buff the area so that everything blends together? do I sand with 800 grit sand paper until its slightly depressed (room for clearcoat)?
am I on the right track?
I covered the dent with tape to prevent corrosion from setting in when it rains...
1. so how do I go about repairing/repainting this dent?
- use a rubber mallet to hammer out the dent
- sand the exposed area with 200 grit sand paper
- tape everything except exposed areas
- rust converter, let cure for 2 days, primer, let dry for 2 days, paint + use heat gun to dry and harden really well.
- after paint has hardened and dried, how do I buff the area so that everything blends together? do I sand with 800 grit sand paper until its slightly depressed (room for clearcoat)?
am I on the right track?
05-28-2010, 02:24 AM
#2
Its gonna be hard to match. Or should I say close to impossible? How big is the scratch?
To bend it back pop it out with a mallet as you mentioned.
Scuff it up, 200grit as mentioned will be fine. I used 150grit before but that's just what I had. Also when you prime, you don't have to wait 2 days. 45mins or so and its ready for paint. The paint takes a while to dry but within 5-6h I'd say its fine. The longest is clearcoat. That takes weeks to properly cure but can be sanded/buffed after 3-5days. I would not sand with 800as you mentioned. Imo that's way too rough. I wet sanded clearcoat before with 2000grit (again that's all I had laying around) and it worked well for what I needed.
I can almost guarantee you the paint will not be matched and will be visible. How well you perform this will be the difference between whether you only notice the imperfection up close or from the distance.
To bend it back pop it out with a mallet as you mentioned.
Scuff it up, 200grit as mentioned will be fine. I used 150grit before but that's just what I had. Also when you prime, you don't have to wait 2 days. 45mins or so and its ready for paint. The paint takes a while to dry but within 5-6h I'd say its fine. The longest is clearcoat. That takes weeks to properly cure but can be sanded/buffed after 3-5days. I would not sand with 800as you mentioned. Imo that's way too rough. I wet sanded clearcoat before with 2000grit (again that's all I had laying around) and it worked well for what I needed.
I can almost guarantee you the paint will not be matched and will be visible. How well you perform this will be the difference between whether you only notice the imperfection up close or from the distance.
05-28-2010, 08:20 AM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Scarborough
Posts: 138
Its a flat dent that's pretty much the size of a dime, with a long crease extending from one side... I'll probably just tape that section leaving a little bit of space in between and do what you've mentioned...
what's your opinion on the heat gun? you see those guys on craigslist? (professionaltech@live.ca)- One guy did my dad's car and used a heat gun to dry the paint, and its holding up pretty well... I think what most body shops do is 'bake' the car in a large oven to get the paint to cure really well- am I correct?
As for it matching, I'm not too sure on how I can make the lines blend together (wet sanding?) but the colour will only be slightly off, since I actually had a paint job done 2 years ago... so that may not be an issue...
(I went the cheap route though, and now I've got small rust spots reappearing on the rear fender well, rear fender, front corner of the door...)
I just want to touch it up and make it look decent before I go and sandblast, por15, and paint the entire car, 4 years and $5000 from now...
what's your opinion on the heat gun? you see those guys on craigslist? (professionaltech@live.ca)- One guy did my dad's car and used a heat gun to dry the paint, and its holding up pretty well... I think what most body shops do is 'bake' the car in a large oven to get the paint to cure really well- am I correct?
As for it matching, I'm not too sure on how I can make the lines blend together (wet sanding?) but the colour will only be slightly off, since I actually had a paint job done 2 years ago... so that may not be an issue...
(I went the cheap route though, and now I've got small rust spots reappearing on the rear fender well, rear fender, front corner of the door...)
I just want to touch it up and make it look decent before I go and sandblast, por15, and paint the entire car, 4 years and $5000 from now...
Its gonna be hard to match. Or should I say close to impossible? How big is the scratch?
To bend it back pop it out with a mallet as you mentioned.
Scuff it up, 200grit as mentioned will be fine. I used 150grit before but that's just what I had. Also when you prime, you don't have to wait 2 days. 45mins or so and its ready for paint. The paint takes a while to dry but within 5-6h I'd say its fine. The longest is clearcoat. That takes weeks to properly cure but can be sanded/buffed after 3-5days. I would not sand with 800as you mentioned. Imo that's way too rough. I wet sanded clearcoat before with 2000grit (again that's all I had laying around) and it worked well for what I needed.
I can almost guarantee you the paint will not be matched and will be visible. How well you perform this will be the difference between whether you only notice the imperfection up close or from the distance.
To bend it back pop it out with a mallet as you mentioned.
Scuff it up, 200grit as mentioned will be fine. I used 150grit before but that's just what I had. Also when you prime, you don't have to wait 2 days. 45mins or so and its ready for paint. The paint takes a while to dry but within 5-6h I'd say its fine. The longest is clearcoat. That takes weeks to properly cure but can be sanded/buffed after 3-5days. I would not sand with 800as you mentioned. Imo that's way too rough. I wet sanded clearcoat before with 2000grit (again that's all I had laying around) and it worked well for what I needed.
I can almost guarantee you the paint will not be matched and will be visible. How well you perform this will be the difference between whether you only notice the imperfection up close or from the distance.
