thermostat and coolant
#1
thermostat and coolant
Hello,
I recently replaced my radiator along with the thermostat.
Since then the car has been running little cooler (no much power).
All replace net parts were aftermarket and not from Acura (Acura wanted $700 for the rad).
My thermostat was still good and was thinking of putting it back with a new gasket.
Question: Do I need to drain all my coolant to replace the thermostat?
Really want to avoid to drain the coolant.
I recently replaced my radiator along with the thermostat.
Since then the car has been running little cooler (no much power).
All replace net parts were aftermarket and not from Acura (Acura wanted $700 for the rad).
My thermostat was still good and was thinking of putting it back with a new gasket.
Question: Do I need to drain all my coolant to replace the thermostat?
Really want to avoid to drain the coolant.
#4
Ok.... lets look at what is happening here before you change the t-stat.
Your car is running cooler.... that is a good thing!
So if you have driven your car to warm up temp and it runs cooler then your t-stat is working fine.
If you have a power issue then maybe you have to look elsewhere.
Another issue may have come up but IMHO there is no way with what you describe that the t-stat is causing a loss in power.
Is your car at least running smooth?
when was the last time you checked cap, rotor, plugs etc? Check impedence of your wires to see if they are functioning correctly.
Your car is running cooler.... that is a good thing!
So if you have driven your car to warm up temp and it runs cooler then your t-stat is working fine.
If you have a power issue then maybe you have to look elsewhere.
Another issue may have come up but IMHO there is no way with what you describe that the t-stat is causing a loss in power.
Is your car at least running smooth?
when was the last time you checked cap, rotor, plugs etc? Check impedence of your wires to see if they are functioning correctly.
#6
OK...you are the one that fears draining coolant from his car.
So IMHO I think that you probably have very limited skills and knowledge working on cars. (that is why you are asking for this advice and thats fine)
So as an automotive tech I have given you sound advice.
So please, please don't tell me running your car up to the H is fine!
A car that runs "cooler" by about 20 degrees is acceptable. If your needle is not moving at all off the "C" then most likely your stat is stuck open. or gauge is disconnected possible at the sender.
I run my GSR motor with 2 bottles of "Water Wetter" to keep it cool under race conditions. It runs about 20 degrees maybe more cooler on the street. My car runs fantastic.
Run your car up near the "H" and you are in trouble! Your head is aluminum. So is your block. You are asking for trouble doing this.
Now back to draing your rad:
The bottom of your rad has a plastic valve on the passenger side. put a pan under the car and open this valve. It will drain slowly and trickle in unless you open the rad cap. Then it will come out all over and quick!
If your pan is clean then after you have drained out the coolant change your stat and just refill with what you drained.
This is very simple work and not a pain to do.
So IMHO I think that you probably have very limited skills and knowledge working on cars. (that is why you are asking for this advice and thats fine)
So as an automotive tech I have given you sound advice.
So please, please don't tell me running your car up to the H is fine!
A car that runs "cooler" by about 20 degrees is acceptable. If your needle is not moving at all off the "C" then most likely your stat is stuck open. or gauge is disconnected possible at the sender.
I run my GSR motor with 2 bottles of "Water Wetter" to keep it cool under race conditions. It runs about 20 degrees maybe more cooler on the street. My car runs fantastic.
Run your car up near the "H" and you are in trouble! Your head is aluminum. So is your block. You are asking for trouble doing this.
Now back to draing your rad:
The bottom of your rad has a plastic valve on the passenger side. put a pan under the car and open this valve. It will drain slowly and trickle in unless you open the rad cap. Then it will come out all over and quick!
If your pan is clean then after you have drained out the coolant change your stat and just refill with what you drained.
This is very simple work and not a pain to do.
#8
1. did they put an aftermarket thermostat in cus sometimes those are set to open at a lesser temp.
2. a motor running "cooler" is fine, its good. less heat soak and more power theoreticly.
3. If its not reaching a moderate running temp, then thats not that great. runs a lot richer, and just overall not ideal for the motor.
Lastly, its ---- weather out right now. really damp and crappy. not good for power. so i wouldnt worry about it. the cooling sysem of a car doesnt generally affect power, unless overheating or really siezed water pump or not reaching running temp.
2. a motor running "cooler" is fine, its good. less heat soak and more power theoreticly.
3. If its not reaching a moderate running temp, then thats not that great. runs a lot richer, and just overall not ideal for the motor.
Lastly, its ---- weather out right now. really damp and crappy. not good for power. so i wouldnt worry about it. the cooling sysem of a car doesnt generally affect power, unless overheating or really siezed water pump or not reaching running temp.
#11
There's plenty to do outside my room but I choose not to!
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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No i don't have one, i removed it to keep the car running cooler, and it gets heat inside the car faster. I'm still driving it right now with these cold morning, but I am not driving the car for the winter.
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