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Switching ITR doors

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Old 11-17-2005, 04:00 PM
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Default Switching ITR doors

Hi Guys.

Just need some clarification before I go ahead and buy these. I'm gonna grab a set of JDM ITR doors this week. Now I was planning on purchasing only the doors without the interior panels. Switching my locks out of my stock doors and into the new ITR doors.

It has been brought to my attention that the JDM doors do not have the same re-bars that the USDM has. Can someone please confirm this information?

Also if that is the case, can I use the re-bar from my GS-R doors and use it in my ITR doors?

Please advise.
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Old 11-17-2005, 04:18 PM
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who needs rebars? :P

you should also worry about the wirering.
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Old 11-17-2005, 04:28 PM
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Screw the re-bar.
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Old 11-18-2005, 10:28 AM
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Can't I just keep everything the same on my existing door and just replace the outer doorskins?

I thought this option would be cheaper then having the existing mouldings removed fromt he door, welded with new metal to fill the holes and then grinding it down so it's all flush. I was quoted at $600 PER SIDE! To have this done.

Any advice would be greatly apprecuiated.
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Old 11-18-2005, 10:46 AM
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I think everything will fit, except the wiring for the mirrors, windows etc..

I havent heard of anyone doing that on JDM ITR doors. Matt, try HT you might have better luck there.
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Old 11-18-2005, 04:29 PM
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Yeah, from what I know... the JDM doors are similar to the 94-96 or 97 doors with less reinforcement. I think there's still a rebar, just not as thick.

As for wiring, just strip the harnesses from your old door and put that into the JDM doors... it's not hard to do. The main issue is the master power window switch since it's on the other side.

Getting JDM doors is a VERY good idea if you're planning on shaving the mouldings... it'll ensure the panel is straight and true. Plus, even if a shop does a good job, there's no guarantee that the patched holes won't sink in a bit and start to show through.
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