Steve_77

Hi everyone,

I have a 96 RS (my first Honda ) that I picked up for Autocross duty.

The intent is to run the car in the various "stock" classes, meaning I have to use OEM or OEM equivalent parts.

Anyhoo, while bashing away at the old, rusted-up-broke-*** brake calipers and rotors, I noticed that pretty much every bushing on the car is toast.

Yikes.

So, I'm contemplating this bushing kit from PIC: http://picperformance.com/store/scri...?idProduct=233

Does anyone have experience with this kit? Seems it has everything except the sway bar bushings.

Also, after some searching through this site, it would seem that the rear LCA bushings were, to paraphrase one member "annealed by the flames of Hell" and "pressed in by Satan himself".

Yikes.

Seems the bushing install may be over my head...(basic tools, no air compressor and an "Irish temper" ). I should also mention that I haven't found a bolt yet that wasn't fused to the car with rust.

Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions or funny stories on bushing kit(s) and installation? Is the kit worth it, or should I spring for new control arms all 'round?

-Steve

MPR

I prefer energy suspension bushings, but any urethane bushing kit will be pretty much the same in performance. Energy suspension most likely sells the sway bar bushings the PIC kit doesn't come with.

Ahh yes, the famous forged rear LCA bushings. These are known to be fused for eternity on civics and tegs alike...lol. Your best bet is to replace the whole rear LCA's with new ones, be it aftermarket or oem style.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

SOR

iTrader: (2)

just replaced my lca's....... and to say the bushings were "pressed in by satan himself" would be an understatement. it took five hours of bashing, prying, burning, bashing, cursing, bashing etc.... you get the idea. it was murder. but it can be done. just buy like a gallon of penetrating oil and soak it every day for a week, then try impacting first in reverse then in forward. just keep doing that. if it has no effect, it looks like the torch is the only thing that can save you.

oh.... and may god have mercy on you should you happen to break an lca bolt off in the process........

Burfy

iTrader: (2)

I think I'm gunna start a business of doing bushings for Hondas aha. I can do an LCA in 15 mins removal + install of new bushing To unseize bolts from the collars just borrow an air hammer and a compressor and rattle the 2 components free, works like a charm!

Vida

iTrader: (2)

A torch, pry bar, and ALOT of beer will become your best friend for a few hours LOL

SOR

iTrader: (2)

then you haven't done ones that were close to bad yet then ;P

Steve_77

Well lads, thanks for the responses. I think I'll run the car as-is for a while, do lots of research/shopping and come up with a good plan-of-attack before trying anything. I'm beginning to think I might as well re-build the entire suspension from the ground up

This was after the LCA's were off the car, correct?

Which bolt in particular? On the front LCA's? The ones I fear the most are any that are attached to the body, like the two bolts on the rear swing arm, that hold that huge-*** bushing to the body.

Next question(s)...
1) The way I read the manual, I think I can replace the front upper LCA bushings *without* removing the ball joint. Is that correct, or should I invest in some higher quality crack-cocaine before posting?

2) All four sway bar end link bushings are junk. I have yet to find "end link bushings"...me thinks I'll need new, complete endlinks, correct?

3) The shop manual mentions that "The vehicle should be on the ground before any bolts or nuts connected to rubber mounts or bushings should be tightened". This sounds kinda tricky once the wheels are...is this legit?

4) On the rear swing arm, that big-*** bushing at the front...does anyone have experience replacing it? (the Acura shop manual manual doesn't show anything). I found a write up on honda-tech.com that mentioned "clocking" the old bushing before slapping in the new one. Thoughts anyone?

Thanks again for any suggestions or advice .

This is my first foray into mechanical/suspension stuff. While I'm electrically inclined, for the most part I should be kept away from sharp objects and power tools

Vida

iTrader: (2)

The fronts wont be bad, you have a high chance with the rears lcas to snap, and curse Satan himself for prying in the souls of the dead in rubber and cold metal

Neon_Dave

iTrader: (1)

From what I know the swing arm bushings in the rear end are very difficult to replace. The Lcas in the rear of civics and integras are notoriously fused together on most cars and hard to work with unless the cars in amazingly good condition.

My thoughts are that for the most part it will save you a lot of time and headache to replace the control arms altogether and replace bushings only where not attacked by the elements as much.

SOR

iTrader: (2)

yeah, that was after the lca's were off.

the bolts i'm referring to are the control arm bushing bolts that go through the rear subframe. but that pretty much goes for any of the bushing bolts. as for the trailing arm bushings..... i was gonna do it then i decided i liked my sanity more than i liked new bushings. :P

Burfy

iTrader: (2)

No, I just have good hands with a torch. I just snip the thin collar after removing the rubber and use a chisel to knock it out.

Steve_77

That's what I figured. My other daily driver (Mazda6) is now having brake/wheel bearing issues, so the LCA's are taking a back seat for now...coincidentally I had to ride my bike to work this morning
LOL...can't wait to try this one! Next time I buy a new car, I'm going to pull *every* bolt, annodize them and slather them in anti-seize...yeah right who am I kidding...

Funny story...while trying to put the right-rear brake pads in last night, the inner pad wouldn't quite fit in. It wouldn't seat properly or "click" into place like the left rear pad did. The brake line has also been disconnected (installing new caliper) and I have a coffee tin sitting on the floor, catching the dripping brake fluid.

So I'm fiddling with the brake pad, hands covered in grease. I thought to myself, "wouldn't it just suck a$$ if I drop this brandy-shiny-new Hawk HPS pad into that tin of brake fluid...?"

Sure enough, 30 seconds later, ker-SPLOOSH! brand new brake pad falls into said tin of brake fluid.

<sigh>


<curses blue streak>
<goes inside and watches "America has Talent">

AcuratePaul

iTrader: (8)

Omg that just sucks about the brake pad stuff like that always seems to happen to Mensa well you think about it and ignore it and it still happens lol.

It would be an awesome idea to remove all the bolts of a new car and spray them with anti seize stuff but like you said who would do that n

SOR

iTrader: (2)

you must be a god with a torch then.

Steve_77

Yeah...gotta be Karma or something. Still good to laugh at myself, though

Here's a slightly off topic, very noob-ish question.

While I've changed pads and rotors before, this is the first time I've done a full house caliper swap. In this case, all four calipers.

So, tonights' job was to bleed all four brakes. I bought one of those cheapy $10 bleed-it-yourself bottles from Part Source, but the hose is too small.

What size hose will fit over the bleed nipple?

Also, and this is a REALLLY noob-ish question, but the pedal feel should be as good or better than it was before, correct? Not mushy or soft? Once I get a hose that fits the bleed nipple, I'll know I'm done when there are no more air bubbles, right?

Thanks in advance for any tips

AcuratePaul

iTrader: (8)

Well just get any kinda hose that fits over the nipple and can be even slightly larger...Ryan helpped me get the air bubbles out of brake lines all we used was a plastic hose and a water bottle and just kept doing it till all the air bubbles were gone we did not bleed the whole system which I think I should seeing the colour of the brake oil YUK!

Steve_77

*DING* "And the survey says....!?"

1/4 clear plastic tube, about $1 per foot at Crappy Tire.

I found a few nifty ideas online about "home made self-bleeder" setups. Hopefully I'll have time to get this done over the weekend.

There's an autocross in Barrie next Sunday...here's hoping...

Datenshi

iTrader: (3)

Glad it worked out, good luck on getting your car back together for next Sunday, take pics if you go and share if you want. We all like pics.

Burfy

iTrader: (2)

Something like that :P

And I find it hard to believe the line is too small to fit on your bleeder screw. Stretch it like a virgin!

Neon_Dave

iTrader: (1)

Just remembered a picture I saw that sums up most of our thoughts about what we come across when doing suspension work on a Honda:

Steve_77

LOL! Amen to that. It seems the more I look, the more rusted out crap I find... But the new brakes are on and work great! EBC blank rotors and Hawk HPS pads....mmmm tasty.

Didn't make it to the autocross on Sunday, as I have found a new noise to consider.

Turning left, 3rd gear, 40kph or so, and I hear a "growling" sound from the front-right corner.

I thought it was the CV at first (most likely outer), but the previous owner tells me they were replaced not long ago.

Also, if I put the clutch in (under the same cornering conditions), the noise goes away.

I tried the same stunt in second gear, and I can't quite hear it...

Suggestions anyone? Tranny mount? Tranny output bearing? Inner CV? Flux capacitor?

Either way, no cone crunching 'till I figure this one out...