Fieldzy09

So as some of u may seen on ----.

My clutch isnt disengaging properly. Ive replaced the master, slave, and bled the system properly. Also checked for leaks. Im a little uneducated on the interior of the bell housing and how the clutch mechanism works. Car is a 96 DC with about 290k

The car wont go into gear while running. In order to drive, i need to shut the car off, put it in gear, then start the car and as its cranking my car will move then i continue to drive. Shifting gears is a p.i.t.a too because i need to "match the revs" to shift (clutchless shifting).

Might i add that it doesnt always do it. Sometimes it works fine, but it doesnt work fine enough. Any help would be awesome. Thanks!

Rxperiment

your pressure plate is probably done for, or your clutch is broken.

black_ac_gsr

iTrader: (3)

if you've done the rest then its narrowed down to the clutch itself either something with the fork,relase bearing,flywheel, pressure plate, friction disc. Take the tranny off and take the clutch out and i bet you will see what the problem is.

Kloos_teg

+10000000000000
sounds like its not releasing.. does the pedal have alot of presure.. air in the lines would cause this but i could be wrong

Fieldzy09

no air in the lines... theres pressure in the pedal.. i think im just going to have to drop the bell housing..

VTEC_Inside

The release fork definitely moves. I had no reference for what its full arc is, but it moves a fair bit and will hold there, so its not an external issue.

I came to the same conclusion last night that the clutch disc itself had failed in some manner.

VTEC_Inside

No choice but to pull the transmission. The bell housing is integral to the transmission casing.

Edit: Anyone ever manage to change a clutch on one of these by just moving the transmission as far as possible to the left (looking from the front).

BestodaBest

I've never seen, or heard of it being done before. I find there to be very little space between the transmission and the frame. But I'm assuming that if you can clear the input shaft, it could be accomplished. Would probably be a bigger pain in the ***, though.


For the problem at hand, i'd assume the problem lies within the pressure plate or clutch disc. When you moved the release fork, did you feel resistance from the pressure plate's fingers? Were you able to flex them at all?

Fieldzy09

As far as we know.. when the pedal is pushed down.. the release fork moves, but the clutch doesnt disengage. and the "hole" to view anything isnt big enough to tell if anythings wrong. Its as if the pedal isnt pushed down, the shifter feels like your trying to put it in gear with the clutch up (not pressed down)

Im going to pull the bell housing off tonight hopefully. Ugh, not looking forward to forking out the 200-600 to fix.
The local discount place wants 280 roughly, and the dealer wants 603.

To add to this, anyone know of any reputable clutch manufacturers? Im looking for an OEM feel.

BestodaBest

Can't beat an Exedy Stage 1 clutch for an OEM feel; and the price is right.

Do it yourself; there isn't much to it, and if you get stumped, there's always someone online to help you out. Its very straight forward.

BestodaBest

I understand; either your pressure plate isn't releasing, or your clutch disc is damaged.

Your pressure plate has a face which sits in contact with the clutch disc. When you press on the clutch pedal, it forces the throw-out bearing forward, and applies pressure to "fingers" which will pull that surface away from the clutch disc, thereby 'disengaging' the clutch.

When this isn't accomplished, its normally due to heavily damaged fingers, a damaged throw-out bearing, or possibly debris which gets intermangled within the pressure plate (i.e. clutch dampening springs).

VTEC_Inside

Thats the name I was trying to remember this morning. I hear good things about those clutches.

All he has to do is call. I have the factory service manual for the car so we shouldn't get hung up on anything.

Fieldzy09

So ive ordered an Exedy Stage 1 for 440 tax in, and my flywheel machined and pilot bearing replaced for 48 (prob plus tax)

Sound good?

God i hope so..

BestodaBest

I already posted up in your ---- thread; but to add to it...

Don't pay to have someone replace your pilot bearing; all you need is a socket and a hammer. Very simple.

Also, make sure you use the proper 12 point sockets when you reinstall and torque your pressure plate and flywheel bolts. There's also a specific torque pattern (refer to service manual).

Its normally recommended to loctite (blue) any bolts that fasten rotating assemblies (due to vibration). But again, refer to your service manual.

While your tranny is off, give your input shaft a jiggle... Make sure the bearing's still sturdy.

Rxperiment

holy ---- dude, i think i paid just over 300 for my exedy stage 1, where did you buy from?

VTEC_Inside

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irsdb7

son of a bitch

Fieldzy09

ugh... i got it from Focus Rims and Performance herr in Hamilton..

bangdagears

that is the exact same problem i had, clutch done, and one of the springs popped out which ruined my flywheel, i too am an owner of an exedy stage 1 paid 300 for it machined the flywheel and did the rear main seal aswell, this being almost a year ago, all i can say is thing still mint and grabs awsome even with the beatings i give her..