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Rusted out Fuel line please help

Old Nov 29, 2008 | 03:49 PM
  #1  
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Default Rusted out Fuel line please help

hey guys this last week or so ive been noticing a strong gas smell coming from underneath the car but i never saw any leaks until last night
i came home and as i was parking i noticed a trail behind me.. checked underneath and sure enough it was pissing out fuel like a ****

all my lines are rusted to ---- my brake lines have already been replaced the rusted out area was cut and replaced with new line and compression fittings i bought the car like that.

the problem line that's leaking right now is the fuel feed the one that runs to the fuel filter. the fuel return that connects to the regulator also looks like ----. the fuel vent looks fine however.

should i buy OEM lines new / used OR would it be easier to buy a roll of flexible pipe cut out the bad ---- and use compression fittings to join it.

if i buy oem lines i think its gonna be a bitch because it runs in between the subframe so id probably end up bending the oem lines so it runs a different route it seems like both 94+ and 98+ both use the same fuel feed and fuel vent but it looks like the return line is different? different part number and the 98+ is like half the price i dont get this. this is from comparing on www.acuraautomotiveparts.org

my car is a 96 which is gay because some stuff looks similar to 94 helms and other ---- looks like 98 helms. the connecting hose that connects from the hard line to the fuel pump has a (weird connector which im having difficulty getting out) that looks like the 98+ helms.

ive tried searching but cant find very much info on this topic
anyone have any guides using either oem lines or custom flexible hard pipe?

does anyone know the size of flexible pipe and where i can buy it? would napa have it? same with the compression / flare fittings? i have a pipe flaring tool set which also does double flare. ive read that we use metric size tubing which is difficult to find so i dunno.

if anyone could provide some tips or advice it would be much appreciated
thanks in advance

Last edited by irsdb7; Nov 29, 2008 at 04:06 PM.
Old Nov 29, 2008 | 04:22 PM
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94+ helms


98+ helms

all the lines look the same so i dont know why www.acuraautomotiveparts.org would have the return line being different

also thats the connecting hose that im having trouble disconnecting it has plastic ends ive been trying to disconnect it where it connects to the fuel pump with no luck

Last edited by irsdb7; Nov 29, 2008 at 04:33 PM.
Old Nov 29, 2008 | 05:43 PM
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ahhhhhhhhhh it wont stoppppppppppp


im trying to disconnect the fuel pump from the fuel line but it WONT COME OFFF it turns and jiggles but it wont come out fuckkkkkkk



the plastic one with the yellow ---- FUCKKKKKKK it keeps siphoning its self helppp

(edit) btw thats not fuel its wd40 to loosen up the nuts which i was able to do

Last edited by irsdb7; Nov 30, 2008 at 06:02 AM.
Old Nov 29, 2008 | 06:06 PM
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http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/f...p/fuelpump.php
that yellow clip line wont ------- come out ive already mangled the ---- out of it and nothing im fucked now guess ill have to let it drain my tank ughhhhhh
Old Nov 29, 2008 | 06:16 PM
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don't know what to tell you. i guess the get the lines from the dealership and replace them
Old Nov 29, 2008 | 06:25 PM
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order all the lines from the dealer. have someone who has done it before install them. its a pain in the *** especially if you do not have a hoist. it takes me about 6-7 hours to do a job like that at work and that is using a hoist with proper tools and lots of swearing.

the lines will never look the same again. they will be all bent and criss crossed out of shape. they are pre-bent from the factory. then then roll/bend the crap out of them to ship them to you so they never line up.

order ALL the plastic line clips that hold the lines to the body. the old ones always rot/crack when you remove them.

once you have all the new lines installed have the whole car rust-proofed.

a side note for you....at our dealer customers will pay about $1500 for parts and labor to do a job like that....

good luck.
Old Nov 29, 2008 | 08:57 PM
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go oem man.. sucky situation.
Old Nov 29, 2008 | 08:59 PM
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you can do it your self if you know how to flare and think you can measure perfect and have a line bender, lift and lots of spare time. If not your going to have to get the prebent lines and hook evry thing up, still a big job though.

Last edited by black_ac_gsr; Nov 29, 2008 at 09:01 PM.
Old Nov 30, 2008 | 01:46 AM
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Im gonna say stick with OEM also, sucks.. but you gotta do what you gotta do.
Old Nov 30, 2008 | 02:34 AM
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if you don't want to spend too much it cost less to have a mechanic splice it, probably, a few hundred. you could even use a nylon fuel line which is even cheaper(don't have to bend anything).

good luck!
Old Nov 30, 2008 | 06:06 AM
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thanks for the comments guys... im pretty sure i can tackle this job. dont really see the point paying someone to do it. just a pain in the *** lol

my biggest problem was making it stop pissing all the fuel out it kept siphoning itself so i had to break the plastic connection at top of the pump and i think i damaged the gas tank cover now too...

im gonna grab a set of pre-bent oem lines monday cus its probably easier to work with instead of making all the small bends and also less chance of it ------- up with the compression / flare fittings that nylon fuel line idea sounds pretty sick tho where do you buy that ----? no more worrying about ------- rust grr everything is rotted to ----
Old Dec 1, 2008 | 10:00 AM
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I just finished going through this experience not even a month ago.

I bought oem lines from my local dealership, simply cause i wanted the least hassle in terms of bends and proper fitment.

Cost me about $450 for the 5 lines; fuel feed, fuel return, fuel tank vent, and brake lines.

To do it properly (and trust me, you don't want to skip this step) you have to drop the front subframe. Just loosening off the bolts won't cut it, lol.

Your going to have to detach the subframe from your power steering rack, disconnect your rear engine/tranny mount, and your front sway bar. Find a hoist, or you'll be saying all kinds of bad words for at least twice as long. You'll also have to drop your fuel tank.

Took me about 10 hours with a friend; and i would HIGHLY recommend either undercoating the whole car, or find some sort of barrier to either wrap or coat the lines in.
Old Dec 1, 2008 | 10:39 AM
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spray the lines with asphalt undercoating. i did that to my gas tank to prevent having to replace it again.
Old Dec 4, 2008 | 09:59 PM
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hey guys just a little update
i finished fixing up my lines which i did myself. i just replaced the feed and the return lines i didnt make it one entire piece i cut the rusted out ---- which was from the subframe back.

i bought a 10ft roll of 5/16" 15$ and 1/4" 13$ (edit)steel line (/edit) , fittings, gas line hose, and clamps from crappy tire. bought a pipe bender from home depot which i will be returning soon lol. i already had the flaring tool. i only flared the feed line and used a compression fitting for the return. instead of using hondas gay *** plastic "FUEL JOINT TUBE" thats like 50 bux i used a rubber fuel line hose with 2 clamps on each end to connect to the sending unit. i did not end up having to drop my gas tank although i could have made the job a bit easier but would make the job harder at the same time since id have to drop the tank so... uh ya lol

after i finished hooking everything back up i put the key in the on position to prime my lines and check for leaks. Not one leak to be found Wo0o0oo job well done

after bending each line i i used marks suggestion and coated them with rubberized asphalt and after installing everything i coated ALL my lines with the same ----; good stuff!!





i wasnt able to get pics of the finished lines boo batteries ran out sorry. ill try to get that to show you guys

Last edited by irsdb7; Dec 5, 2008 at 01:48 PM.
Old Dec 5, 2008 | 01:33 AM
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i had to do this same setup on my civic winter beater, still no leaks but those fuel line clamps rust fast
Old Dec 5, 2008 | 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by black_ac_gsr
i had to do this same setup on my civic winter beater, still no leaks but those fuel line clamps rust fast
oh i took care of the clamps with a bunch of Rust Check thick goop ---- lol
Old Dec 5, 2008 | 09:16 AM
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no way... my lines just went too.. i'm using that same ----, ( roll ) anything i should watch out for??
Old Dec 5, 2008 | 09:39 AM
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dont smoke or have open flames when working around fuel *thumbs up* and good luck...looks like a shitty *** hard job
Old Dec 5, 2008 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by KoaL
no way... my lines just went too.. i'm using that same ----, ( roll ) anything i should watch out for??
take your time dont rush things. dont try to force anything in place. when bending the steel line leave a little extra lenth on the end even after mesureing then try it out and cut some more if you have to. when bending your lines bend a little at a time and compare with your old peice then bend some more

practice your double flaring make sure its comming out even and nice looking
make sure you clean up the ends of your lines nice and dont let ---- inside

cant really think of anything else to say right now but you probably have it all figured out so ya.. if you have any questions just ask


Originally Posted by dsquintz
dont smoke or have open flames when working around fuel *thumbs up* and good luck...looks like a shitty *** hard job
wasnt that hard of a job just gotta be patient and watch what your doing. sure got me dirty tho lol

Last edited by irsdb7; Dec 5, 2008 at 02:02 PM.
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