MSD Ignition
#6
* Every spark is at full power with 110 milliJoules of energy.
* Up to 470 volts is delivered to the primary side of the coil.
* Multiple spark series lasts for 20° of crankshaft duration.
* Installs to most engines with a distributor and 12 volt, negative ground system.
MSD SCI-L, PN 6320
Sport Compact enthusiasts will be excited to see MSD’s newest ignition design! The MSD Sport Compact Ignition (SCI) is the ultimate ignition for the high revving smaller displacement engines that are found in late model sport vehicles. At higher rpm, stock inductive ignitions cannot produce full power sparks resulting in a loss of power or even a top end miss.
The new MSD SCI Series Ignitions feature capacitive discharge circuits that are capable of full power sparks at any rpm! Whether you’re idling through traffic or ripping through the gears at 10,000+ rpm, each spark of an SCI Ignition is at full power! High powered sparks mean complete combustion which puts more power to the ground.
Below 3,000 rpm, the SCI Ignitions produce a series of sparks that last for 20° of crankshaft rotation. This series of sparks will smooth the idle, produce quick starts and deliver lightning quick throttle response.
There are two models of the MSD SCI Ignition Controls offered; the SCI, PN 6300, and the SCI-L, PN 6320. With these proven ignitions, your sport compact car will get the spark power it needs to outperform the competition on both the street and the track.
The MSD SCI-L Sport Compact Ignition shares the same powerful ignition design as the SCI, but also features MSD’s popular built-in Soft Touch Rev Control feature. The Soft Touch Rev Control will precisely limit the rpm at an adjustable amount for overrev protection and is supplied with a 3,000, 6,000, 7,000 and 8,000 rpm module. This built-in feature also allows you to use an MSD Two Step Module Selector so you can have a holeshot rev limit!
OPERATING SPECIFICATIONS
Operating Voltage: +10-18 VDC Negative Ground
Current Requirements: 5 Amps-5,000 RPM
10 Amps-10,000 RPM
RPM Range: 14,000 RPM with 14.4 Volts
Spark Duration: *20° Crankshaft Rotation
Energy Output Max: *105-115 mJ Per Spark
Weight and Size: 3lbs., 8"L x 4"W x 2.25"H
Voltage Output Max: *Primary: 460-480 Volts
Secondary: 45,000 Volts (Blaster Coil)
* Up to 470 volts is delivered to the primary side of the coil.
* Multiple spark series lasts for 20° of crankshaft duration.
* Installs to most engines with a distributor and 12 volt, negative ground system.
MSD SCI-L, PN 6320
Sport Compact enthusiasts will be excited to see MSD’s newest ignition design! The MSD Sport Compact Ignition (SCI) is the ultimate ignition for the high revving smaller displacement engines that are found in late model sport vehicles. At higher rpm, stock inductive ignitions cannot produce full power sparks resulting in a loss of power or even a top end miss.
The new MSD SCI Series Ignitions feature capacitive discharge circuits that are capable of full power sparks at any rpm! Whether you’re idling through traffic or ripping through the gears at 10,000+ rpm, each spark of an SCI Ignition is at full power! High powered sparks mean complete combustion which puts more power to the ground.
Below 3,000 rpm, the SCI Ignitions produce a series of sparks that last for 20° of crankshaft rotation. This series of sparks will smooth the idle, produce quick starts and deliver lightning quick throttle response.
There are two models of the MSD SCI Ignition Controls offered; the SCI, PN 6300, and the SCI-L, PN 6320. With these proven ignitions, your sport compact car will get the spark power it needs to outperform the competition on both the street and the track.
The MSD SCI-L Sport Compact Ignition shares the same powerful ignition design as the SCI, but also features MSD’s popular built-in Soft Touch Rev Control feature. The Soft Touch Rev Control will precisely limit the rpm at an adjustable amount for overrev protection and is supplied with a 3,000, 6,000, 7,000 and 8,000 rpm module. This built-in feature also allows you to use an MSD Two Step Module Selector so you can have a holeshot rev limit!
OPERATING SPECIFICATIONS
Operating Voltage: +10-18 VDC Negative Ground
Current Requirements: 5 Amps-5,000 RPM
10 Amps-10,000 RPM
RPM Range: 14,000 RPM with 14.4 Volts
Spark Duration: *20° Crankshaft Rotation
Energy Output Max: *105-115 mJ Per Spark
Weight and Size: 3lbs., 8"L x 4"W x 2.25"H
Voltage Output Max: *Primary: 460-480 Volts
Secondary: 45,000 Volts (Blaster Coil)
#7
^^ In lamen terms... Benefits of MSD are power gains in the Lower RPM range, smoother idle, improved throttle response. How that's possible obviously you know that MSD produces linear and higher voltage sparks in the chamber, which in returns burns all excess fuel in the combustion chamber. Burning more fuel produces more power.
#9
You might want to add a nice orange Flame out of the Muffler called FIRE. Obviously at High RPM Shifts. Secret Recipe:
VTEC leads to Higher RPM
Higer RPM leads to More Spark in Combustion Chamber (workings of MSD)
Greater Combustion leads to More Fuel being BURNT
BURNT = FIRE
VTEC leads to Higher RPM
Higer RPM leads to More Spark in Combustion Chamber (workings of MSD)
Greater Combustion leads to More Fuel being BURNT
BURNT = FIRE
Last edited by PmDaWg; 08-12-2005 at 09:01 AM.
#11
if your still running on the stock distributor/ignitor your just prematurly wearing your distributor out with the sci l
I can shoot fire out or my muffler to if I wanted, but the question is why?
You either ignite the fuel or u don't. You can't half burn fuel. Show me one instance of a proper working oem ignition system that doesn't?
Save your money.
I can shoot fire out or my muffler to if I wanted, but the question is why?
You either ignite the fuel or u don't. You can't half burn fuel. Show me one instance of a proper working oem ignition system that doesn't?
Save your money.
#12
Originally Posted by WildoutWhiteGSR
You either ignite the fuel or u don't. You can't half burn fuel. Show me one instance of a proper working oem ignition system that doesn't?
The rev limiter on the SCI-L and 6A-L alternates the firing order so that you get constant power no mater how hard you push the gas you wont pass the limiters set point. I think this is much better then having the car die at the set point (OEM ECU pre-set limit)
And yes you WILL burn out the oem coil and distributor so if you go with a MSD system you need to do it all
And in my opinion it is worth it and you will get your money back in gas savings alone
But its not cheap
SCI-L box $300
Blaster 2 coil $45
MSD cap $40
And the MSD cap is set up for an external coil oem is internal
And I haven’t met any one how has had an MSD ignition and been disappointed!!
#13
Not worth it, I had one, but only becuase I was running 12.5:1 compression which makes the mixture difficult to ignite. You do get smoother idling and easier starts, the downside being the need to replace the ignitor in the distributor more frequently.
Ignitors aren't cheap, so if you are gonna run the MSD on a stock motor, it ain't worth it.
Ignitors aren't cheap, so if you are gonna run the MSD on a stock motor, it ain't worth it.
#18
Originally Posted by Blue Dragon
Not worth it, I had one, but only becuase I was running 12.5:1 compression which makes the mixture difficult to ignite. You do get smoother idling and easier starts, the downside being the need to replace the ignitor in the distributor more frequently.
Ignitors aren't cheap, so if you are gonna run the MSD on a stock motor, it ain't worth it.
Ignitors aren't cheap, so if you are gonna run the MSD on a stock motor, it ain't worth it.
What for a smoother idle.
You can get that from replacing old worn out parts with stock ones. How do I know. Cuz I did it. Now I don't see how you can get smoother than that.
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1226958
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1214312
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1176651
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...urnPage=Search
Over my head indeed
#24
^ Read what Michael Delaney from Team Integra has to say about MSD. He knows what he's talking about. For ppl too lazy to click Trenell's link :
Summary: Honda OEM ignition systems are in fact very good! There's really no need to spend $400 on MSD.
for everyone else now wondering whether they should put money they had originally marked for something else towards an MSD amplifier/external coil kit instead , please don't let this thread influence your thinking. put your hard earned money into something more useful in an N/A system that will actually improve hp performance.
dtoles78: if you spent $400-425 (MSD 6AL, SS coil, and any spiral wound aftermarket wire) on a "performance" item (assuming you just modified your own distributor cap instead of getting the $35-50 MSD cap) for fuel efficiency, then at least you did it correctly knowing that they aren't hp gaining mods.
If I was an LS owner, that $400 could have gone towards adjustable cam gears and an FPR or towards a set of Crower cams.
fuel efficiency over hp gain may be a priority to some people. my question is this: why are you modifying your engine, if fuel efficiency is even a consideration?
it's not like the ignition system is going to save you gas once you drop in a set of huge cams and high CR pistons. you weren't misfiring before you bought the msd.
you'd be better off spending some time with a dyno operator learning how to tune the engine for optimal air:fuel ratio . that skill is what will pay itself off over time. tuning gets the most out of an engine efficiency (in terms of both power and fuel economy)... you DON'T need an ignition upgrade in a mild to intermediately modified N/A motor.
you don't have a high enough cylinder pressure to need more spark energy. you weren't misfiring before you bought this msd. Russ Collins of RC Engineering said to me, the Honda ignition is good for 300 crank hp in terms of spark energy needed.
if you want to save gas, check your tire pressure and use the higher end of the range (smaller contact patch means less rolling friction...also means less grip but you save gas). if you want to save gas, check your spark plug gaps and read your plugs properly to see if they are running rich. check your stock wires for breaks and if they connect properly to the spark plug and distributor. do a tune-up according to schedule. change the oil according to your schedule. if you want to save gas, clean your k&n air filter or change your stock paper air filter according to schedule. if you want to save gas, use synthetic oil and MTF (if you have a manual tranny) to reduce internal frictional losses. if you want to save gas,clean your injectors periodically. these also won't cost you $400 and they pay for themselves too over time.
you already bought this and installed it. water under the bridge. so telling you that it wasn't a good investment now is not going to help you....
but for the other people with N/A engines who have not bought one yet and see other modified cars with these in them, and wonder whether they should get one...without understanding WHY you get one and just for the sake of copying people...plus they hear the snake oil sales people egging them on to buy one when they don't need it:
PLEASE...FOR HEAVEN'S SAKE...DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY.
as the saying goes: give a hungry man a fish (eg. msd upgrade) and he eats for 1 day. teach him how to fish (eg. learn tuning skills) and he eats for more than a day
dtoles78: if you spent $400-425 (MSD 6AL, SS coil, and any spiral wound aftermarket wire) on a "performance" item (assuming you just modified your own distributor cap instead of getting the $35-50 MSD cap) for fuel efficiency, then at least you did it correctly knowing that they aren't hp gaining mods.
If I was an LS owner, that $400 could have gone towards adjustable cam gears and an FPR or towards a set of Crower cams.
fuel efficiency over hp gain may be a priority to some people. my question is this: why are you modifying your engine, if fuel efficiency is even a consideration?
it's not like the ignition system is going to save you gas once you drop in a set of huge cams and high CR pistons. you weren't misfiring before you bought the msd.
you'd be better off spending some time with a dyno operator learning how to tune the engine for optimal air:fuel ratio . that skill is what will pay itself off over time. tuning gets the most out of an engine efficiency (in terms of both power and fuel economy)... you DON'T need an ignition upgrade in a mild to intermediately modified N/A motor.
you don't have a high enough cylinder pressure to need more spark energy. you weren't misfiring before you bought this msd. Russ Collins of RC Engineering said to me, the Honda ignition is good for 300 crank hp in terms of spark energy needed.
if you want to save gas, check your tire pressure and use the higher end of the range (smaller contact patch means less rolling friction...also means less grip but you save gas). if you want to save gas, check your spark plug gaps and read your plugs properly to see if they are running rich. check your stock wires for breaks and if they connect properly to the spark plug and distributor. do a tune-up according to schedule. change the oil according to your schedule. if you want to save gas, clean your k&n air filter or change your stock paper air filter according to schedule. if you want to save gas, use synthetic oil and MTF (if you have a manual tranny) to reduce internal frictional losses. if you want to save gas,clean your injectors periodically. these also won't cost you $400 and they pay for themselves too over time.
you already bought this and installed it. water under the bridge. so telling you that it wasn't a good investment now is not going to help you....
but for the other people with N/A engines who have not bought one yet and see other modified cars with these in them, and wonder whether they should get one...without understanding WHY you get one and just for the sake of copying people...plus they hear the snake oil sales people egging them on to buy one when they don't need it:
PLEASE...FOR HEAVEN'S SAKE...DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY.
as the saying goes: give a hungry man a fish (eg. msd upgrade) and he eats for 1 day. teach him how to fish (eg. learn tuning skills) and he eats for more than a day
#28
^and what mods do you have that would support an MSD ignition? do you have more than 10:1 compression? or are you running more than 12psi of boost? if your answer is no to both your questions, then your wasting your money.
#31
ok I don't think people with no experience with the product should comment on it. Honestly I think there's maybe a handful of people who have used MSD, Crane or other products as such. We are not giving people the right suggestions all we are doing is going back and fourth about stuff, so far on this post there are 3 people who have used MSD or similar products, Wayne, DrtAcura, and myself. On the net you find a lot of useless stuff, lots of falsified or non-clarified things.
Yes fuzzy you don't need Boost or 12:1 Compression to reap the benefits of MSD. I had none of the above on my integra.
Yes fuzzy you don't need Boost or 12:1 Compression to reap the benefits of MSD. I had none of the above on my integra.
#32
Michael Dealany knows his ----. That I know. You just have to read his posts. If he says it's a waste, it's a waste.
You can put that money towards something else that will make more of an impact to performance in your car.
And like Trenell already said if your stock bits are good to 300Hp, why change?
You can put that money towards something else that will make more of an impact to performance in your car.
And like Trenell already said if your stock bits are good to 300Hp, why change?
#34
Originally Posted by DaGizzer
Michael Dealany knows his ----. That I know. You just have to read his posts. If he says it's a waste, it's a waste.
Originally Posted by DaGizzer
You can put that money towards something else that will make more of an impact to performance in your car.
Originally Posted by DaGizzer
And like Trenell already said if your stock bits are good to 300Hp, why change?
this post asks for an opinion
and now ones opinion is wrong
so i say vote in the poll and lets move on
Vote Here
Last edited by DRT acura; 08-19-2005 at 09:21 AM.
#37
Originally Posted by drtacura
* Every spark is at full power with 110 milliJoules of energy.
* Up to 470 volts is delivered to the primary side of the coil.
* Multiple spark series lasts for 20° of crankshaft duration.
* Installs to most engines with a distributor and 12 volt, negative ground system.
MSD SCI-L, PN 6320
Sport Compact enthusiasts will be excited to see MSD’s newest ignition design! The MSD Sport Compact Ignition (SCI) is the ultimate ignition for the high revving smaller displacement engines that are found in late model sport vehicles. At higher rpm, stock inductive ignitions cannot produce full power sparks resulting in a loss of power or even a top end miss.
The new MSD SCI Series Ignitions feature capacitive discharge circuits that are capable of full power sparks at any rpm! Whether you’re idling through traffic or ripping through the gears at 10,000+ rpm, each spark of an SCI Ignition is at full power! High powered sparks mean complete combustion which puts more power to the ground.
Below 3,000 rpm, the SCI Ignitions produce a series of sparks that last for 20° of crankshaft rotation. This series of sparks will smooth the idle, produce quick starts and deliver lightning quick throttle response.
There are two models of the MSD SCI Ignition Controls offered; the SCI, PN 6300, and the SCI-L, PN 6320. With these proven ignitions, your sport compact car will get the spark power it needs to outperform the competition on both the street and the track.
The MSD SCI-L Sport Compact Ignition shares the same powerful ignition design as the SCI, but also features MSD’s popular built-in Soft Touch Rev Control feature. The Soft Touch Rev Control will precisely limit the rpm at an adjustable amount for overrev protection and is supplied with a 3,000, 6,000, 7,000 and 8,000 rpm module. This built-in feature also allows you to use an MSD Two Step Module Selector so you can have a holeshot rev limit!
OPERATING SPECIFICATIONS
Operating Voltage: +10-18 VDC Negative Ground
Current Requirements: 5 Amps-5,000 RPM
10 Amps-10,000 RPM
RPM Range: 14,000 RPM with 14.4 Volts
Spark Duration: *20° Crankshaft Rotation
Energy Output Max: *105-115 mJ Per Spark
Weight and Size: 3lbs., 8"L x 4"W x 2.25"H
Voltage Output Max: *Primary: 460-480 Volts
Secondary: 45,000 Volts (Blaster Coil)
* Up to 470 volts is delivered to the primary side of the coil.
* Multiple spark series lasts for 20° of crankshaft duration.
* Installs to most engines with a distributor and 12 volt, negative ground system.
MSD SCI-L, PN 6320
Sport Compact enthusiasts will be excited to see MSD’s newest ignition design! The MSD Sport Compact Ignition (SCI) is the ultimate ignition for the high revving smaller displacement engines that are found in late model sport vehicles. At higher rpm, stock inductive ignitions cannot produce full power sparks resulting in a loss of power or even a top end miss.
The new MSD SCI Series Ignitions feature capacitive discharge circuits that are capable of full power sparks at any rpm! Whether you’re idling through traffic or ripping through the gears at 10,000+ rpm, each spark of an SCI Ignition is at full power! High powered sparks mean complete combustion which puts more power to the ground.
Below 3,000 rpm, the SCI Ignitions produce a series of sparks that last for 20° of crankshaft rotation. This series of sparks will smooth the idle, produce quick starts and deliver lightning quick throttle response.
There are two models of the MSD SCI Ignition Controls offered; the SCI, PN 6300, and the SCI-L, PN 6320. With these proven ignitions, your sport compact car will get the spark power it needs to outperform the competition on both the street and the track.
The MSD SCI-L Sport Compact Ignition shares the same powerful ignition design as the SCI, but also features MSD’s popular built-in Soft Touch Rev Control feature. The Soft Touch Rev Control will precisely limit the rpm at an adjustable amount for overrev protection and is supplied with a 3,000, 6,000, 7,000 and 8,000 rpm module. This built-in feature also allows you to use an MSD Two Step Module Selector so you can have a holeshot rev limit!
OPERATING SPECIFICATIONS
Operating Voltage: +10-18 VDC Negative Ground
Current Requirements: 5 Amps-5,000 RPM
10 Amps-10,000 RPM
RPM Range: 14,000 RPM with 14.4 Volts
Spark Duration: *20° Crankshaft Rotation
Energy Output Max: *105-115 mJ Per Spark
Weight and Size: 3lbs., 8"L x 4"W x 2.25"H
Voltage Output Max: *Primary: 460-480 Volts
Secondary: 45,000 Volts (Blaster Coil)
#38
Originally Posted by Big Hairy Gino
Waste of money IMO. You can spend that money on somewhere else and actually gain something out of it.
CAI or even a SRI , Fuel Pressure regulator, Apexi VAFC and some proper tuning and you have a car that is mapped for the correct Air:Fuel ratio, meaning optimum performance and fuel efficiency. May be a little more expensive, but I think this option has more merit then an MSD on stock motor with basic bolt ons.
You want good spark, make sure your plugs work or get some NGK's.
I'm not saying that the MSD is garbage, but I think it depends on what type of modifications you do to your motor, to really reap the benefits of having the MSD.
#39
Again, why? A proper working oem ignition system is gonna give you the same gold idle, gas mileage and throttle response.
Guess what, if you advance timing you get throttle response, it's no secret. It doesn't matter how much power the msd system can put out if, if the stock ignition system is already doing the job. If the stock ignition system is already igniting the fuel and air combination. There's nothing more you can do. Again it's really only needed for high boost/nitirous. There's a reason why 10 N/A all-motor drag cars use the stock ignition system.
Or what about the ignitor in the distributor? It's the weakest part in the whole oem ignition system. Well the msd system replaces everything else, but the ignitor. So tell me how that's good manufacturing.
Gas mileage arguement, well lets see I get 550km per tank on a vtec engine, I have gone as far as 570km. Now I'm sure if I actually highway drived the car more I would get higher, but the fact is I'm doing a lot of city driving. LS owners should easily be able to get 600kms per tank. How many of you actually get that on your oem system? If not, guess what, whether you go with a msd system or replace your oem system components, you'll notice a difference.
Again no one seems to be reading the post, that I posted above. Those are real users who had it and scrapped it.
Save your money, buy a Apexi VAFC a fuel pressure regulator and get it tuned. $500 well spent that will actually help you.
Guess what, if you advance timing you get throttle response, it's no secret. It doesn't matter how much power the msd system can put out if, if the stock ignition system is already doing the job. If the stock ignition system is already igniting the fuel and air combination. There's nothing more you can do. Again it's really only needed for high boost/nitirous. There's a reason why 10 N/A all-motor drag cars use the stock ignition system.
Or what about the ignitor in the distributor? It's the weakest part in the whole oem ignition system. Well the msd system replaces everything else, but the ignitor. So tell me how that's good manufacturing.
Gas mileage arguement, well lets see I get 550km per tank on a vtec engine, I have gone as far as 570km. Now I'm sure if I actually highway drived the car more I would get higher, but the fact is I'm doing a lot of city driving. LS owners should easily be able to get 600kms per tank. How many of you actually get that on your oem system? If not, guess what, whether you go with a msd system or replace your oem system components, you'll notice a difference.
Again no one seems to be reading the post, that I posted above. Those are real users who had it and scrapped it.
Save your money, buy a Apexi VAFC a fuel pressure regulator and get it tuned. $500 well spent that will actually help you.
#40
Originally Posted by PmDaWg
Every little bit helps. To me $300 is worth gas effeciency, smoother idle, quicker response off the line. I've had it on my car for a over 2 years. Haven't had any complaints.
Smoother idle, have that too.
Quicker response off the line, have that too and if I wanted more, I'd advance the timing.
$300 saved. OEM NGK no complaints either.
But you did https://www.torontointegras.ca/cgi-b...c;f=5;t=000920. Looks like you forgot to mention something.
Originally Posted by PmDaWg
ok I don't think people with no experience with the product should comment on it. Honestly I think there's maybe a handful of people who have used MSD, Crane or other products as such. We are not giving people the right suggestions all we are doing is going back and fourth about stuff, so far on this post there are 3 people who have used MSD or similar products, Wayne, DrtAcura, and myself. On the net you find a lot of useless stuff, lots of falsified or non-clarified things.
Yes fuzzy you don't need Boost or 12:1 Compression to reap the benefits of MSD. I had none of the above on my integra.
Yes fuzzy you don't need Boost or 12:1 Compression to reap the benefits of MSD. I had none of the above on my integra.
Originally Posted by Blue Dragon
Not worth it, I had one, but only becuase I was running 12.5:1 compression which makes the mixture difficult to ignite. You do get smoother idling and easier starts, the downside being the need to replace the ignitor in the distributor more frequently.
Ignitors aren't cheap, so if you are gonna run the MSD on a stock motor, it ain't worth it.
Ignitors aren't cheap, so if you are gonna run the MSD on a stock motor, it ain't worth it.
Last edited by WildoutWhiteGSR; 08-19-2005 at 11:41 AM.