irsdb7

my oil seems to just disappear on my gsr im using castrol gtx 5w30 did an oil change about 1000kms ago and i left it at halfway mark on the dipstick

these 1000kms have been about 70% highway driving ive been trying to stay off vtec to see if it would make any diff but sometimes cant resist and sometimes take it to 8.5k rpms

all seals in the motor are less than 20k kms old there are no visible leaks little bit from valve cover gasket but nothing major and definitely no dripping

i do however get alot of black soot ---- all over my back bumper around the exhaust ive been told that when i rip it/vtec i have some black smoke comming out the exhaust but i dont think that would be oil since oil will burn blueish white smoke and black would be fuel i believe

im planning on doing a leakdown test soon and also thinking about adding some highmilage oil to see if that might help swell up my seals a bit but i dunno

it was been pretty consistent with around 1 literes oil loss every ~1000kms since like before winter but now it seems to be getting worse..
any ideas? suggestions? thanks guys

for troubleshooting purposes..

should i disable vtec to see if anything changes? or... set a lower redline? maybe 7k ?
i dunno

btw im using hondata s300

- edit -
hmm could it be becuase of maybe high vacuum and its forcing oil through the valve seals?

JDM_overdose

iTrader: (9)

ask kraz:P.

I would desable it and see if anything changes. maybe from the ecu swap, its not reading properly.

just takin a wild guess.

Neon_Dave

iTrader: (1)

How much mileage and how old is the engine? You're either leaking or burning oil, one of the two. Check lower engine seals also, oil pan, rear main.

Spike

iTrader: (5)

If your not leaking it, then your burning it, and I bet you any money it's the valve seals that are gone, and the rings most likely are letting some oil blow by as well.

irsdb7

kraz has disapeared off the face of the planet and he wouldnt be able to determin anything anyways hes useless at troubleshooting anything

and as to the ecu wtf are you talking about as to not reading properly? reading what exactly? lol




engine was rebuilt all new seals currently the engine has about 20k kms on it about and about 2 years old oilpan is dry im definitly not losing from oil pan gasket


yeah it must be burning cus its not leaking.. but if it was burning wouldnt it be smoking pretty bad? i dont notice any smoke only when i accelerate hard high rpms / vtec but ive been told that it was black smoke..

irsdb7

it dosnt do anything like this



more like this with all that black ---- at the back




what if i were to try a thicker oil like 5w40

AcuratePaul

iTrader: (8)

ok so as the 2nd video goes wtf am i watching th clouds move across the screen cuz the first 7 min are ptetty much pointless....

As for black smoke i to get that out of my exhaust when i hit vtec with then b18c...when it was stored and i was hitting the accelrater i got black crap like that come out of my exhaust but i am not burning any oil. i have heard from many people they get that black ---- for 2 reasons their cat is ---- or no cat, and also heard after market exhaust have that moisture build up causing the black crap. But your running a stock gsr exhaust i think? something is making your oil burn. and according to you 1 litre per 1000km thats really bad dude.

What kind of gas you putting in it, are you filling up at no name places?

JDM_overdose

iTrader: (9)

2nd video=nice clouds

irsdb7

yeah the 2nd video was pretty long and pointless shoulda pointed it out im mostly talking about the black ---- covering the bumper and if you wateched till the end youll see a close up of the exhaust youll see the black ---- being spit out along with the moisture BTW this isnt my video

AcuratePaul
my cat is still original im going to change it soon with a magnaflow 2.5 inch cat i have Edelbrock headers and Apexi WS cat back
i only put 91 and 95% of the time from petro sometimes shell and pioneer never esso or crappytire

i checked my pvc valve and it seemed to be working lets air one way dosnt the other... could there be anything wrong with my vacuum system i dont have evap system hooked up what about the oem oil catch can thing

i had my throttle body off the other day and noticed it was wet with oil inside my intake mani and one time i forgot to connect my valve cover vacuum line to the intake and noticed some oil came out thorugh the hose

JDM_overdose

iTrader: (9)

take off ur valve cover, check whatsup under there

irsdb7

^ wtf your suggestions are useless what am i going to see under the valvecover? only reason ill need to take it off is to listen when i do a leakdown test

and i dont mean to be rude but plz if you have no clue.. just keep it to yourself
i just wanna keep things on topic thnx

JDM_overdose

iTrader: (9)

just sayin. to check whats under there to see how it is. any sludge.

AcuratePaul

iTrader: (8)

okay you are using good gas petro one of the best. pioneer never used not planning too. hmmm how many clicks on this motor, was this thing beaten? I hope in the long run its nothing serious, one thing leads to next and in comes a new motor.

irsdb7

original clicks on the motor?? before being rebuilt is unknown currently about 20k but like i said it was completely rebuilt
motor was pretty much babied most of the time but i do drive aggressively and like to rip it sometimes but i mean the motor was made to handle it i do do frequent oil changes and do maintenance regularly nothing is neglected

some specs:
skunk2 pro valvetrain
skunk2 flatface valves
skunk2 pro1 cams
wiseco 11.5:1 pistons
eagle rods
balanced and knife edged crankshaft
all internal seals / rings / bearings are OEM

the original motor in the car was fine no problems and not abused regular maintenance it was just a NA project motor that was swaped into the car

Buff4Prez Yo

iTrader: (2)

how do you have the catch can hooked up? how high is your idle?

it's a possibily that you could have too much vaccum and it's sucking in oil. that happened to me on my swap but as far as what i've read, it sounds like your valve seals are toast and the rings could be worn.

D.T.P

iTrader: (3)

Are the pistons OEM size or slightly larger? I hear a lot of horror stories where block wasn't honed properly and left too rough causing rings to burn up. Also let's face it, a lot of hondas, run a tad rich, now extra fuel+oil will give you black smoke. I'd put my money down on rings. Do a compression test and/or leakdown test.

Also buff mentioned catch can, maybe I missed it but I didn't see you mention a catch can setup. What size hoses? How is it setup?

JDM_overdose

iTrader: (9)

the OEM catch can

D.T.P

iTrader: (3)

^^black box? doubt it. and if there is that much blow by, there will be a greater problem.

non-VTEC

probably burning oil....actually most definitely it's burning oil....you need a rebuild or just live with it.

irsdb7

catch can.. not really only the oem black box where the pcv valve fits into idle is about 900-950
what was your solution for too much vacuum? and how do you know if you have too much vacuum?


pistons are +.020" Overbore machineing was done at Canadian Cylinder Head.


you guys think it would be okay to use a thicker oil? like 5w40 or some ----?
so far after adding castrol highmilage and driving 400kms theres been no change in oil level ive been light on the vtec tho and 80% highway

non-VTEC

was the engine a stock rebuild? or has it had some mods? was the ecu tuned?

JDM_overdose

iTrader: (9)

+1

stacks

you try using slick 50? I was burning like almost half a quart per 1000 when i switched to synthetic when i first got my teg, and on my last oil change with slick 50 i only topped up once over 5000km and it was barely anything. Might be worth a shot, the bottles go for like ~$20 at CT

irsdb7

which Slick50 Engine Treatment ?
cus i dont see slick50 engine oil

stacks

this is what you want:
hxxp://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/EngineTreatments/PRD~0380264P/Slick50%252BPlus%252BEngine%252BTreatment.jsp

D.T.P

iTrader: (3)

Who assembled the motor? Imo something went wrong during rebuild. Were the rings checked when installed for appropriate gaping? And I really don't see why you'd be getting that much blowby from an N/A engine.

Yes you can use thicker oil such as 5W40, should slow down the burning. I did that with my brothers prelude, it helped a bit.

Buff4Prez Yo

iTrader: (2)

if there's no aftermarket catch can and you have a functioning pcv valve i wouldn't worry about the vacuum.

Burfy

iTrader: (2)

+1

I'd be worried about that and even the positioning of the rings upon installation. If you got 2 rings lined up that'll produce significant oil loss..

irsdb7

^ lmfao yeah

engine has LOTS of blowby like with the engine running and oil cap off you can feel lots of air blowing out and... intake man is also soaked with oil

for the time being im going to put the cheapest 5w40 oil i can find

did speak to kraz yesterday and he said that he installed the rings on the "loose side of honda spec"

so no matter what i guess im going to have to get the motor rebuilt?

*sigh* fml

D.T.P

iTrader: (3)

Get a catch can, the route it back to oil pan. Though its dirty oil, it'll get filtrated over. I'm in process of doing that on my brothers lude. But that's just as a temporary fix. Hopefully it helps a bit.

AcuratePaul

iTrader: (8)

irsdb7 if you are gonna resolve to rebuilding the motor i wouldnt even bother theres only so much you can fix before something ***** up again just run this motor save some money and swap in a new motor it will prob even run you cheaper.

D.T.P

iTrader: (3)

On the up side, dont have to do oil changes that often. just occasionally change the filter

Spike

iTrader: (5)

Don't put 5W40 in, just got with a 10W30 and get a bottle of Lucas Oil engine stop leak. This stuff works.

http://www.lucasoil.ca/products/prod...cat=Automotive

AcuratePaul

iTrader: (8)

Ya Lucas oil helps a ton, one of my cars a MAzda MPV the Tranny was gone...well the 5th gear wouldnt kick in poured that ---- in and it does miricals stuff works try it out.

Leung

lucas will knock until its warmed up

I would only use it again for the tranny nothing else

Burfy

iTrader: (2)

yea, 5w30 and 5w40 is the exact same thing when the engine is warmed up lol.. a heavier oil would be 10w30 or even 15w40.. 15w40 lasts forever because it's meant for big diesel trucks who go 15,000km between oil changes

irsdb7

huh no, are you sure? i thought it was like this... 5w30 and 5w40 are not the same they are the same when cold but at operating temp its the 2nd figure 5w40 would be thicker at operating temp than 5w30 and the same when cold

5w30 and 10w30 is the same at operating temp 5 is thinner when cold than 10
5 is meant more for winter and 10 is meant for summer


ill give the lucas stuff a try



now im getting some strange ideas... b20/vtec and maybe a turbo mmm lol
but i think im too cheap for a turbo setup maybe just a b20 bottom for now... i dunno

Burfy

iTrader: (2)

"The viscosity grade (for example, 5W-30) tells you the oil's thickness, or viscosity. A thin oil has a lower number and flows more easily, while thick oils have a higher number and are more resistant to flow. Water has a very low viscosity -- it is thin and flows easily" (How stuff works site)

engine oil 5w30
tranny oil 80w90

Pour each side by side and you'll see the higher number is thicker.

The second number is the viscosity when the oil is cold, the first is warm. So yea, 5w30 and 5w40 eventually become the same thickness!

irsdb7

lol seems like you didnt quite read your source "how stuff works" site very well

Multi-weight oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature. This page from the Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ offers the following very interesting description of how the polymers work:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-e...estion1641.htm

but you know what.. it is weird that the number is higher when the oil is at operating temp than when cold how does that even make sense for a moment there i through you were right and was wondering how i was mistaken all this time.. but lol i was in fact right