StaceyRhect

me and my dad commenced lowering yesterday. we spent from 10am to 2:30pm on the rear passenger. and the shock/springs arent even installed yet!
why didnt you guys tell me this would be such a bitch job! ahhh

well you warned me about the control arm bolts being possibly seized.. but its not only that, its many other seized bolts.. cant even get the stock camber arm to come off the drum part.

cant get the bushings outta the LCAs and my dad doesnt want to heat them up and punch em so i have to go out after i type this, and buy those pretty little megan LCAs.

im just frustrated and venting.. and i work nights so im up all day without sleep..

thanks for reading

Datenshi

iTrader: (3)

Use a blow torch IMO. I wouldn't worry too much about the heat... just flame the hell outta the nut so that it expands and it should come off eventually.

D.T.P

iTrader: (3)

For the back, all you need is to take off the lower strut bolt and two in the top. Then huge pry bar and while pushing the hub down, you'll have enough room to take the strut out. Now camber arm...? Don't need to take it off. Also you said that LCA bolt came out but why you trying to take the bushing out?

Moreover, if you will use heat, don't heat the bushing directly, heat up metal around only and then punch the bushing out.

nizmo

iTrader: (7)

talk to acuratepaul...we spent 4 hours doing one corner aswell, they are older cars with rust. What did you expect?lol

AcuratePaul

iTrader: (8)

Ya should of read up on my problems, the left side took a whole day, The right side went smoothly since I sprayed WD-40 on it for 2 days straight. (I know you guys said WD-40 is bad but it got the job done.) I got the right side out and in, in under 20 min. But like martin stated for the back all you have to remove is the LCA's.

Vida

iTrader: (2)

PB BLASTER FTW.

And like martin said. its the 3 bolts on the rear lower control arm plus the 2 at the top of the shock tower or whatever. Loool, i think hes helped me put my suspension on and off like 4 or 5 times. looool

D.T.P

iTrader: (3)

For the rear you really just need to pull out that one single bolt that holds the strut in place. if you take out one more, it will be easier to get it out, but i dont like taking chances with those damn bolts in lcas.

StaceyRhect

we took out the strut bushings in the lca because the nut was fused into it..
but anyways, me and my father got the back all lowered.
and we took the camber arm off because i have a camber kit...

tell me, are the fronts any easier?
the camber kit for the front are ball joints.. my dad is wondering if their pressed in, rivited or bolted.. (i have no idea what hes talking about here ha)

D.T.P

iTrader: (3)

The fronts are somewhat easier since the bolts don't seize in that badly. Again the 2 bolts on the top from under the hood, then need to take out the 17mm bolt from the fork to lower control arm and also the 14mm holding the fork on the strut. Then if you are doing camber kit, it will be easier to get the strut out since you will have to remove the upper control arm. Just need to remove the cotter pin and the nut off the ball joint. Then the two nuts under the hood on the strut tower and everything is apart. Shouldn't take more than 30mins per side.

StaceyRhect

ah yes, my father is a mech so he will know thank ju

Buff4Prez Yo

iTrader: (2)

most of us have dealt with this at one point or another. it's a bitch but determination gets the job done.

working nights sucks! where do you work?