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I failed emissions help!!!!
My emission test on my 95 rs integra failed. all of the ASM readings failed but passed all curb idle. I had a stuck open pcv valve, and inspected my rusty ass catalytic converter and it looked pretty clogged and white inside. My car has a short ram intake with a brand new filter, and a performance axle back exhaust. I fueled up full tank with Ultra 94 and added a bottle of Octane booser prior to doing the emission test. I probably should have not done that huh? I NEED ADVICE, I can't afford to keep doing emission tests, suggestions will be greatly appreciated and also some useful tidbits.
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try crappy tire emission test kits. stock rs engine? you can use regular gas (for the test).
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This is proabably the 50th Emission fail Thread. We have tonnes of threads on this topic. No intentions to flame but do your research before you post a new thread.
+1 on the crappy tire kits. |
---- it I'm not gonna say it again and again. I'm starting to sound like a broken record or a parrot.
Search this section and you'll find some answers. |
Originally Posted by buff4prez yo
(Post 249291)
try methyl hydrate
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Don't know why but .... Why don't people actually use the search option. How hard is it? Just typing "Emission" gives you about 55 threads. Be more specific and you'll find the right thread.
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I'm new to this forum thing and at first I thought everybody here was nice. I didn't know there are assholes as well. thanks for the help to those that aren't
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Everybody is nice here but the people new to the boards need to understand that it's a waste to create similar threads or ask the same questions over and over again. We sure can help you out but help yourself too. Understandable that you're new to the "forum thing" but are you new to computers or internet?
Here are some threads that give you more info on Emission test fails. No surprises all these threads pressure on using methyl hydrate. https://www.torontointegras.ca/forum...light=Emission https://www.torontointegras.ca/forum...light=Emission https://www.torontointegras.ca/forum...light=Emission And this one tells you to search. https://www.torontointegras.ca/forum...light=Emission Good luck with your emissions and enjoy your stay on the board. |
thank u for the clarification
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post up the exact numbers
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Originally Posted by Buff4Prez Yo
(Post 249291)
---- it I'm not gonna say it again and again. I'm starting to sound like a broken record or a parrot.
Search this section and you'll find some answers. just do the work once..copy it into a word doc and paste it up everytime someone asks .. :lol: :yeah: If you dont wanna deal with constantly retesting.. PM me.. i have the answer.. |
Originally Posted by Fieldzy09
(Post 249467)
just do the work once..copy it into a word doc and paste it up everytime someone asks .. :lol: :yeah:
Originally Posted by Fieldzy09
(Post 249467)
If you dont wanna deal with constantly retesting.. PM me.. i have the answer..
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Originally Posted by Buff4Prez Yo
(Post 206934)
put a litre of methyl hydrate in your tank with some gas and drive for about 10-15 min. should clean it up. no sense in putting someones business a risk when it could just cost you $5.
the old engine on my beater was burning almost a litre of oil a day. i put in some methyl hydrate and drove for 20min. i had an old cat, plugs and wires on top of that. it still passed. |
Originally Posted by mkmk
(Post 249503)
do this!...i did this and passed...
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First Test without Methyl Hydrate running on Ultra94 gas with octane booster:
ASM test HC ppm 68 limit 120Fail CO% 0.38limit 0.65Fail NO ppm 526limit 1166Fail Second test with 1 litre of Methyl Hydrate running on the same gas: ASM test HC ppm 68limit 119Fail CO% 0.38limit 0.53Fail NO ppm 526limit 840Fail |
A new cat should definitely pull those numbers into pass.
Post yours numbers after that too. |
did better with the methyl hydrate :D
IMO i think the 94octane and octane boost did more harm than good. |
Originally Posted by Buff4Prez Yo
(Post 250172)
IMO i think the 94octane and octane boost did more harm than good.
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Two words.
Methyal Hydrate. |
yea i picked up a brand new direct-fit cat (not a high flow) and also a new O2 sensor while I am at it hehehe... crossing my fingers for monday is test day. I will definitely post numbers after the test. and NOFEAR, i tried the methyl hydrate and did not work.
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i still have a tank full of the same gas as the first two tests, but I will have a new cat and O2 sensor for this test coming up.
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the whole methyl hydrate trick doesn't work on all cars, every car and make is all different. they all operate different and have totally different readings.
alot of the times the methyl hydrate can increase engine temp in some cars and cause you to fail the NOX on the ASM. if the cat is ---- swap it and O2 why not while your at it. the numbers looks like to me is just the cat. best to do is after installed take it out for a decent drive cause sometimes it wont pass right away if you put it on and just test it. it is best to let it clear out anything bad in the exhaust and ---- first. i dont know how many times i fail cars and the people are just so ignorant and they dont listen and just go around picking up myths from people to try and make there cars pass. like the emissions "guarranteed to pass". people run in grab a bottle pour it in the tank and bring it in for a test. then they fail and wonder why, well if they stopped and thought to read the box it clearly reads to fill the tank to one botttle of the formula and drive the tank out and refill again and i think clear that tank out refill just gas then test. everyone thinks its some magic syrum or something, same with the methyl hydrate. if your car fails its cause ts got a problem, and if its something you wanna fix up stop wth the stupid band-aid fixes cause its not fixing the real problem. pretty much guaranteed to get your pass tomorrow bud. |
just pay the $150-$200 and bypass the emissions crap
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Originally Posted by Kadafi
(Post 250503)
just pay the $150-$200 and bypass the emissions crap
wtf is a bypass? u mean under the table etest? its stupid especially if its a modified car and a cop thats suspicious pulls you over, if he wanted to he could have it tested on the side of the road. plus you never figure out the real reason with whats up with your car and you can do further damage. or could need no more than just and oil change to pass. wouldn't that be a piss off if it was only like a $25 repair or service to make it pass? best thing to always do is a fresh oil change and plugs then go for a test. always have and never failed. |
ok I went for the test with a new cat and o2 sensor and failed one part which is NO ppm limit is 526 and read 823. Everything else is PASS with flying colors. Before I went for the test, I took the car for a drive from mississauga to scarborough and to toronto for the test. That is after the cat and 02 sensor just got installed. Before I went for the first E-test I had all spark plugs changed to NGK iridiums, new NGK spark plug wires, pcv valve, air filter, and fresh oil change. I never checked for proper timing though, and that is what I am thinking. Maybe there is too much spark advance and it is running lean... Can anybody shed some light into this as I am baffled.
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that is the problem with aftermarket converters. they don't clean up NOx to well even when they are new.
since you changed the 2 major components that effects the tail pipe emissions already the next trick to get it to pass guaranteed this time around is to back the timing off enough so that it will pass. the stock base timing for a integra is about 16deg BTDC. set it to around 10deg and go for a retest. it will pass this time around.
Originally Posted by Sharkie
(Post 250684)
ok I went for the test with a new cat and o2 sensor and failed one part which is NO ppm limit is 526 and read 823. Everything else is PASS with flying colors. Before I went for the test, I took the car for a drive from mississauga to scarborough and to toronto for the test. That is after the cat and 02 sensor just got installed. Before I went for the first E-test I had all spark plugs changed to NGK iridiums, new NGK spark plug wires, pcv valve, air filter, and fresh oil change. I never checked for proper timing though, and that is what I am thinking. Maybe there is too much spark advance and it is running lean... Can anybody shed some light into this as I am baffled.
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Wow if you fail emmisions in a teg you really got problems...
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Originally Posted by Sharkie
(Post 250684)
ok I went for the test with a new cat and o2 sensor and failed one part which is NO ppm limit is 526 and read 823. Everything else is PASS with flying colors. Before I went for the test, I took the car for a drive from mississauga to scarborough and to toronto for the test. That is after the cat and 02 sensor just got installed. Before I went for the first E-test I had all spark plugs changed to NGK iridiums, new NGK spark plug wires, pcv valve, air filter, and fresh oil change. I never checked for proper timing though, and that is what I am thinking. Maybe there is too much spark advance and it is running lean... Can anybody shed some light into this as I am baffled.
Is this an auto or stick.. Autos have an EGR that could cause higher NOx if its not working correctly. |
it is stick and the car ran about 100 if not a little more. I will have to wait till payday again before the next test. Also I have to find my timing gun hehehe.
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It could be leaning out a bit because of where your timing is set and bumping up your nox because of the combustion temp but next time you go after you retard your timing go to crappy tire and tell them that engine is a b20 and its not supposed to be in the car they can run it as a "hot rod" which will bump all of your numbers up on hc , co, and nox. This is what they did for me just a few months back and most people there dont know ---- about honda's anyways.
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would that show as a 2.0 liter engine on the paper though and would I get in trouble for it?
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no how could you for all they know you blew your engine and put in a new one over night its your car you can do what you want. You dont tell your insurance when you take out a d15 and swap a b20V turbo you just pay for the ---- engine on insurance and take the risk. But besides that I used to get fake etests because when i ran a gsr in the car i had a hollow cat but after i took it out to build it i swaped to a b20 just to have a car to drive and put on a magnaflow high performance cat headers and 2.5 pollished stainless all the way back and I took the chance ran the car legit at crappy tire and it passed with flying colours and they did bump the numbers up because the guy was cool and said ya we can run it as a hot rod because that motor does't belong in the car and i took that same sheet to the ministry with the 2.0 on paper and here i am today with my sticker a happy man. Oh and don't quote me but dont the b20's and the non vtec integra engines have the same looking valve cover anyways? just it says b18 or b20 on the tag at the front of the block just smudge some grease over it they wont know ---- lol.
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Helped by DOHC-notec. Thanks for all your inputs.
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Originally Posted by black_ac_gsr
(Post 250905)
no how could you for all they know you blew your engine and put in a new one over night its your car you can do what you want. You dont tell your insurance when you take out a d15 and swap a b20V turbo you just pay for the ---- engine on insurance and take the risk. But besides that I used to get fake etests because when i ran a gsr in the car i had a hollow cat but after i took it out to build it i swaped to a b20 just to have a car to drive and put on a magnaflow high performance cat headers and 2.5 pollished stainless all the way back and I took the chance ran the car legit at crappy tire and it passed with flying colours and they did bump the numbers up because the guy was cool and said ya we can run it as a hot rod because that motor does't belong in the car and i took that same sheet to the ministry with the 2.0 on paper and here i am today with my sticker a happy man. Oh and don't quote me but dont the b20's and the non vtec integra engines have the same looking valve cover anyways? just it says b18 or b20 on the tag at the front of the block just smudge some grease over it they wont know ---- lol.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by black_ac_gsr
(Post 250905)
no how could you for all they know you blew your engine and put in a new one over night its your car you can do what you want. You dont tell your insurance when you take out a d15 and swap a b20V turbo you just pay for the ---- engine on insurance and take the risk. But besides that I used to get fake etests because when i ran a gsr in the car i had a hollow cat but after i took it out to build it i swaped to a b20 just to have a car to drive and put on a magnaflow high performance cat headers and 2.5 pollished stainless all the way back and I took the chance ran the car legit at crappy tire and it passed with flying colours and they did bump the numbers up because the guy was cool and said ya we can run it as a hot rod because that motor does't belong in the car and i took that same sheet to the ministry with the 2.0 on paper and here i am today with my sticker a happy man. Oh and don't quote me but dont the b20's and the non vtec integra engines have the same looking valve cover anyways? just it says b18 or b20 on the tag at the front of the block just smudge some grease over it they wont know ---- lol.
Originally Posted by Smartass pHO
(Post 252280)
What?
http://www.weblo.com/asset_images/la...c9a590dec5.jpg |
lol
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Epic failure to punctuate
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lol lil jon
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