GSR turbo
05-15-2008, 03:42 PM
#1
n00b
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Mississauga
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GSR turbo
i was wondering since the gsr moter is better for boost how much would it cost in total to change all the engine internals to type r and get a full turbo kit maybe t3/t4. This will be a daily driver so i want to push like 300whp probably 15-20 psi which kit is best and in total costs would it cost around the same price as a type r motor ?
05-15-2008, 03:56 PM
#2
n00b
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 53
Rods are the same. Only difference are the pistons. You could swap those out if you really wanted to, but it wont make a whole lot of difference. The bone stock ITR motor can make 300whp with a good tune. Dont be afraid of the higher compression 
And you wont need 15-20psi to do it either.
And you wont need 15-20psi to do it either.
05-15-2008, 03:56 PM
#3
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05-15-2008, 03:58 PM
#4
There's plenty to do outside my room but I choose not to!
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Rods are the same. Only difference are the pistons. You could swap those out if you really wanted to, but it wont make a whole lot of difference. The bone stock ITR motor can make 300whp with a good tune. Dont be afraid of the higher compression
And you wont need 15-20psi to do it either.
And you wont need 15-20psi to do it either.
if he's going to boost on stock ITR pistons at that high compression on a GSR motor for a daily driver he's going to hate life, or he better be prepared to spend money on one quality tune.
05-15-2008, 04:15 PM
#5
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Hence why I think its pretty pointless him doing the piston swap, as the compression difference isn't huge, and the same results can be achieved with ITR pistons.
05-15-2008, 04:23 PM
#6
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no no no i dnt have any motor im trying to figure out if i want to go turbo gsr or n/a type r i want to get like 300whp the gsr motor is cheaper thats why i was considering getting it and spending that left over grand or two that the type r would of cost me on a turbo set up. which one is best this is also my first build 
05-15-2008, 04:34 PM
#7
n00b
Join Date: Jun 2005
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In that case, just turbo the GSR. An all motor C5 will not get to 300whp if that is your goal, so you really only have one option from the two choices you provided.
But are you sure you want to use the GSR motor? Have you looked at turbocharging a B16 or an LS? Both have the potential to hold 300whp, and are quite a bit cheaper then the GSR. With more money left over you can build yourself a proper turbo kit, tune it well, and buy some Turbo>NA stickers.
But are you sure you want to use the GSR motor? Have you looked at turbocharging a B16 or an LS? Both have the potential to hold 300whp, and are quite a bit cheaper then the GSR. With more money left over you can build yourself a proper turbo kit, tune it well, and buy some Turbo>NA stickers.
05-15-2008, 04:40 PM
#8
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i did think of the b16a2 but if i was going to use that engine i would not buy an integra i would buy the sir nd turbo it i heard that the gsr was a better motor than the b16.
which turbo is best for gsr and which is best for b16 the car will be a daily driver how much psi should i run 10?
which turbo is best for gsr and which is best for b16 the car will be a daily driver how much psi should i run 10?
05-15-2008, 04:43 PM
#9
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 510
boost the GSR.
They hold boost really well (like every other b-series engine) and can easily make 300whp on a lot less than 15-20psi. Usually when people boost engines they use lower compression pistons, not higher. If ur gunna open the engine up and change stuff, use forged connecting rods (eagle/crower) and forged low compression pistons (9:1 or 10:1). If you do this, then the weak point of your engine will be the stock sleeves, but unless you're trying to make over 500whp i wouldn't be too worried about the stock sleeves.
I've got a boosted high compression b16 (11.5:1 CR) and its fine, been going strong for over a year now and i'm running 9psi off a GT3255E (pretty big turbo, but not huge). Tuning is key on any boosted setup, get tuned with a solid program (such as neptune) by a reputable/authorized tuner and you'll be fine.
They hold boost really well (like every other b-series engine) and can easily make 300whp on a lot less than 15-20psi. Usually when people boost engines they use lower compression pistons, not higher. If ur gunna open the engine up and change stuff, use forged connecting rods (eagle/crower) and forged low compression pistons (9:1 or 10:1). If you do this, then the weak point of your engine will be the stock sleeves, but unless you're trying to make over 500whp i wouldn't be too worried about the stock sleeves.
I've got a boosted high compression b16 (11.5:1 CR) and its fine, been going strong for over a year now and i'm running 9psi off a GT3255E (pretty big turbo, but not huge). Tuning is key on any boosted setup, get tuned with a solid program (such as neptune) by a reputable/authorized tuner and you'll be fine.
05-15-2008, 05:14 PM
#11
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yeh but i want vtec thats why i would say gsr i just want to know that when i turbo the engine it will last as a daily driver and not bllow on me for the price of the type r swap would i be able to turbo a gsr and replace internals
05-15-2008, 05:34 PM
#12
There's plenty to do outside my room but I choose not to!
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Didn't he say he has an ITR motor? At least thats what I understood from his message. Sounded to me like he was thinking of using GSR pistons in an ITR motor.
Hence why I think its pretty pointless him doing the piston swap, as the compression difference isn't huge, and the same results can be achieved with ITR pistons.
Hence why I think its pretty pointless him doing the piston swap, as the compression difference isn't huge, and the same results can be achieved with ITR pistons.
05-15-2008, 06:59 PM
#13
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im sorry there is just allot of things going through my head i dont know what to get 
so let me say again i have some money coming in around like 10-12k i want to get a car with a vtec engine. i was thinking of gettin a integra ls what every year i could afford and do a jdm front end convertion. next is motor i want to turbo it, it will be ether b16 or 18c1. this brings me to my next question which is more reliable i want this car to last me as long as possible. my hp goal is around 300hp i dont know what level of psi is safe for a daily driver. also which turbo will give me the longest life out of my engine with the most gains
so let me say again i have some money coming in around like 10-12k i want to get a car with a vtec engine. i was thinking of gettin a integra ls what every year i could afford and do a jdm front end convertion. next is motor i want to turbo it, it will be ether b16 or 18c1. this brings me to my next question which is more reliable i want this car to last me as long as possible. my hp goal is around 300hp i dont know what level of psi is safe for a daily driver. also which turbo will give me the longest life out of my engine with the most gains
05-15-2008, 07:19 PM
#14
n00b
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: vaughn
Posts: 29
First in my opinion educate yourself alot more about boosting a car because its not easy it will cost alot of money and anything aftermerket is no longer reliable... the key is your tuning. and also if you want 300 whp wich you may achieve if it is quality turbo parts not ebay garbage you obviously will buy a boost controller and turn down from lets say 10 psi to 5psi that is what will help you being more reliable... but dont rush teach yourself read a ---- load... -honda-tech.com- and then consider boost...
05-15-2008, 09:02 PM
#15
n00b
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 53
You really need to do a bit of research mate.
Dont fret about psi. Just choose a properly sized turbo for your application. It might take 10lbs of boost to get to 300hp, it might take 13lbs. No one can tell you what psi to run because it depends on too many variables.
When you properly size your turbo, and tune within the limits of your engine, then the resulting psi will be safe, so no one can tell you what a "safe" psi is. There are many other factors which will have a far greater impact on your setup's reliability. One which many people overlook is cooling. On a recent build I was involved with, we installed a nice race radiator, with high efficiency fans, and some other knick knacks. After a long dyno session the rad hoses were still cool to the touch.
But to cover all your angles and make a truly reliable setup, you will have to UNDERSTAND your setup. Know what is going on, and what everything does. And thats why everyone keeps telling you to do research. Knowledge is prevention.
Oh, and as for which engine is more reliable, they are both Honda engines. Looking at things from a purely mathematic stand point, the B16 should be more "reliable" as it has the better rod/stroke ratio as well as the better bore/stroke ratio. However the GSR has more displacement and will make more torque. But thats over simplifying things.
Dont fret about psi. Just choose a properly sized turbo for your application. It might take 10lbs of boost to get to 300hp, it might take 13lbs. No one can tell you what psi to run because it depends on too many variables.
When you properly size your turbo, and tune within the limits of your engine, then the resulting psi will be safe, so no one can tell you what a "safe" psi is. There are many other factors which will have a far greater impact on your setup's reliability. One which many people overlook is cooling. On a recent build I was involved with, we installed a nice race radiator, with high efficiency fans, and some other knick knacks. After a long dyno session the rad hoses were still cool to the touch.
But to cover all your angles and make a truly reliable setup, you will have to UNDERSTAND your setup. Know what is going on, and what everything does. And thats why everyone keeps telling you to do research. Knowledge is prevention.
Oh, and as for which engine is more reliable, they are both Honda engines. Looking at things from a purely mathematic stand point, the B16 should be more "reliable" as it has the better rod/stroke ratio as well as the better bore/stroke ratio. However the GSR has more displacement and will make more torque. But thats over simplifying things.
05-16-2008, 07:33 AM
#18
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 510
i'm gunna say prolly due to jealousy.
I think Premium Dude summed it up pretty good there. How much boost you run is relevant to which turbo you use. 10psi out of a 14b is a lot different than 10psi out of a GT35R. Don't strees about PSI, its not the amount of boost you're running that will blow the engine up, its how much power its making. You could prolly run a 14b at like 20psi on your engine without blowing up, but if you crank out 20psi off a GT35R you'll be pickin up peices of your engine off the highway.
Make sure to thoroughly think this through and if boost is for you. Make sure that you've got not only the money to get your turbo parts, install them and tuned, but have money left over for when something breaks. You'll need spare cash for when your wastegate craps out on you, or if your oil pan gasket starts to leak and you need to get it fixed, or you need money for a better clutch b/c yours can't hold the 300whp you want to make, or you'll need money for good tires b/c yours spin at 5psi. See where i'm going with this?
Also make sure that you're more than regular with the maintainance. Don't let your oil changes go to 5000kms or over, always make sure your oil is clean and at the proper level and make sure to use the proper weight for a turbo engine. I use 10w40 in my boosted b16.
Also like someone else said, don't use cheap parts, don't buy a $800 turbo kit, look to spend about $2500-3500 on a pre-fabbed kit, or a little less if you peice a kit together yourself. Don't forget about the fuel system, you need bigger injectors (i'd say at least 550's) and a high volume fuel pump (walbro 255lph) and of course tuning.
I think Premium Dude summed it up pretty good there. How much boost you run is relevant to which turbo you use. 10psi out of a 14b is a lot different than 10psi out of a GT35R. Don't strees about PSI, its not the amount of boost you're running that will blow the engine up, its how much power its making. You could prolly run a 14b at like 20psi on your engine without blowing up, but if you crank out 20psi off a GT35R you'll be pickin up peices of your engine off the highway.
Make sure to thoroughly think this through and if boost is for you. Make sure that you've got not only the money to get your turbo parts, install them and tuned, but have money left over for when something breaks. You'll need spare cash for when your wastegate craps out on you, or if your oil pan gasket starts to leak and you need to get it fixed, or you need money for a better clutch b/c yours can't hold the 300whp you want to make, or you'll need money for good tires b/c yours spin at 5psi. See where i'm going with this?
Also make sure that you're more than regular with the maintainance. Don't let your oil changes go to 5000kms or over, always make sure your oil is clean and at the proper level and make sure to use the proper weight for a turbo engine. I use 10w40 in my boosted b16.
Also like someone else said, don't use cheap parts, don't buy a $800 turbo kit, look to spend about $2500-3500 on a pre-fabbed kit, or a little less if you peice a kit together yourself. Don't forget about the fuel system, you need bigger injectors (i'd say at least 550's) and a high volume fuel pump (walbro 255lph) and of course tuning.
05-16-2008, 06:20 PM
#19
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: sauga
Posts: 1,482
cause he has 0 knowledge about boosting a motor, yet he doesn't even know what chassis he wants to buy yet.he should be reading the link fuzzy posted instead of everyone spoon feeding him.
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