CRV Bottom end and GSR head ?
#1
CRV Bottom end and GSR head ?
Hey, i was wondering my neighbour offered me a good deal on a b20 bottom end and a gsr head swap , but i heard that the conversion isn't a prefect fit and that it doesn't work well ...should i do the b20 swap with gsr head or should i just get a gsr complete engine considering that in the long term i do want to get a turbo
#2
if you ultimately want to go turbo i would just buy a b18a/b. They have a nice low compression to start with and can handle boost really well....not to mention are cheap to buy.
B20vtecs work well, when built right. Just slapping a gsr head on a b20 block and putting boost through it is a bad idea if u ask me.
B20vtecs work well, when built right. Just slapping a gsr head on a b20 block and putting boost through it is a bad idea if u ask me.
#3
it's also called a B20 bottem end or crv/vtec or b20/vtec.
Your gotta state your:
power goals
location of powerband
1/4 time
reliablity
daily driver or main use of the car
future plans
etc
The info you have now isn't complete enough to give a completely accurate answer
Your gotta state your:
power goals
location of powerband
1/4 time
reliablity
daily driver or main use of the car
future plans
etc
The info you have now isn't complete enough to give a completely accurate answer
#4
well its hard to say for the time being its gonna be daily driven (no winter) and i dont know what a gsr with b20 would put out in the end with whatever engine and turbo i want to come out to 300 hp and there is so many set ups for engines what would be the best for turbo and that would give me results of 300 hp , and i m not talkin engine + turbo =300 i m planning to build up the engine as well in order to get that result ...the problem with it all is i don't know what would be the best thing to go with
#5
good luck building an N/A engine to make 300whp.
There are two ways of building an engine, for n/a or for boost.
With N/A you want high compression, with boost you want low compression. So it would be a bad idea to slap a turbo on a fully built n/a engine because the compression will probably be pretty high.
IMO a b18a/b would be your best bet. With a decent sized turbo (t3/t4) 300whp is easily obtainable. Now if you wanna start building the block (forged pistons and rods) you can see well over 400whp with a decent setup.
There are two ways of building an engine, for n/a or for boost.
With N/A you want high compression, with boost you want low compression. So it would be a bad idea to slap a turbo on a fully built n/a engine because the compression will probably be pretty high.
IMO a b18a/b would be your best bet. With a decent sized turbo (t3/t4) 300whp is easily obtainable. Now if you wanna start building the block (forged pistons and rods) you can see well over 400whp with a decent setup.
#8
Or slap a B20 head on the bottomend and boost that. I'm told the B20B and B18B are the same only the B20 has more displacement. You'll need a B18 IM and TB since the B20 one is stupid tall and won't fit under your hood.
I run a B20VTEC and I wouldn't even think about boosting it. It is an amazing NA setup though.
I run a B20VTEC and I wouldn't even think about boosting it. It is an amazing NA setup though.
#9
N/A 300hp = nearly impossible or really expensive
FI = really easy
So that answers the first part.
powerband location, where do you want to make the most power?
1/4 times how fast are you hoping for?
FI = really easy
So that answers the first part.
powerband location, where do you want to make the most power?
1/4 times how fast are you hoping for?
#10
you can take a stock gsr turbo it and make 300 no problem
a b20 block with gsr head, if you want to turbo it i would suggest pistons and rods then you will be able to handle 300hp
or a N/A b20/vtec you can do lots of work and spend lots of money and get ~230ishhp.
a b20 block with gsr head, if you want to turbo it i would suggest pistons and rods then you will be able to handle 300hp
or a N/A b20/vtec you can do lots of work and spend lots of money and get ~230ishhp.
#11
yeah thats what i got told about the b20 bottom end and gsr head to change the pistons and rods but that can get pretty damn expensive with all of this stuff and as for the 1/4 mile 13's wouldnt be bad if thats possible and i think 300 hp teg would pull that
#12
yeah a 300hp teg can do 13's easy.
fyi you could also do 13's N/A. You don't need 300hp to do so. It just makes it a whole lot easier.
So your only route for 300hp is turbo. Start looking for what type of turbo and or pre-made kits that can give you your goal.
fyi you could also do 13's N/A. You don't need 300hp to do so. It just makes it a whole lot easier.
So your only route for 300hp is turbo. Start looking for what type of turbo and or pre-made kits that can give you your goal.
#14
a b20 block is basically an ls block with 84mm pistons. if you plan on boosting a b20, you definitely want to put in a block guard, otherwise the walls will crumble.
if you want to stay na and run more agressive cams, you'd probably want to get the valve reliefs milled so your valves don't end up getting bent when they slap the pistons. if your doing that much work, you might as well swap out for some higher compression pistons.
300 whp on boost can easily be attained by slapping a turbo kit on a stock gsr longblock with proper tuning.
if you want to stay na and run more agressive cams, you'd probably want to get the valve reliefs milled so your valves don't end up getting bent when they slap the pistons. if your doing that much work, you might as well swap out for some higher compression pistons.
300 whp on boost can easily be attained by slapping a turbo kit on a stock gsr longblock with proper tuning.
#15
a block gaurd won't stop the sleeves of a b20 from cracking. they will still crack i have seen it.
back when i had 198whp i was running a nitrous kit and i ran 13.2 in my teg on slicks.
then i went turbo made 215whp and ran 13.5 all day on street tires.
then when i built a gsr motor and made 360whp i ran 11.7
then when i cranked boost and made 512 i spun my slicks and broke axles.
back when i had 198whp i was running a nitrous kit and i ran 13.2 in my teg on slicks.
then i went turbo made 215whp and ran 13.5 all day on street tires.
then when i built a gsr motor and made 360whp i ran 11.7
then when i cranked boost and made 512 i spun my slicks and broke axles.
#18
/\
if you're going to do a B20 you'll need to swap out the rods/pistons but if you do this it does get pretty expensive.
I have a B20, GS-R head setup, and its N/A. I would never boost it, but then again, i race circuit. I don't think that setup is really for crazy boost.
If you're a drag racer and you just want pure torque and boost, then go with your B18B motor, (since you have the motor already) and change the internals, (rods/pistons) of the block, do some head work, reinforce the walls, get some stronger studs etc, and boost it.
No need for all the work to do B20Vtec.
if you're going to do a B20 you'll need to swap out the rods/pistons but if you do this it does get pretty expensive.
I have a B20, GS-R head setup, and its N/A. I would never boost it, but then again, i race circuit. I don't think that setup is really for crazy boost.
If you're a drag racer and you just want pure torque and boost, then go with your B18B motor, (since you have the motor already) and change the internals, (rods/pistons) of the block, do some head work, reinforce the walls, get some stronger studs etc, and boost it.
No need for all the work to do B20Vtec.
#20
its decent for boost....especially if you use forged internals. But i wouldn't put too much boost throught it in stock form because its got a pretty high compression ratio to begin with...much higher than a b18a/b.
If you wanna boost just put some forged internals in a cheap b18a/b. You could build a b18a/b for what it would cost to buy a gsr swap....lol. Plus you could just build your current engine and have a freshly rebuilt high-psi ready LS monster. Or even just pick up another longblock to save downtime on the car while rebuilding the engine and sell the old engine once its out.
If you wanna boost just put some forged internals in a cheap b18a/b. You could build a b18a/b for what it would cost to buy a gsr swap....lol. Plus you could just build your current engine and have a freshly rebuilt high-psi ready LS monster. Or even just pick up another longblock to save downtime on the car while rebuilding the engine and sell the old engine once its out.
#22
someone thats going to rebuild it....or make a lsvtec out of it.
If you were going to buy another b18a/b to build to avoid downtime on your car, i would suggest getting the highest mileage, cheapest longblock you could find....there's no need to spend a lot of money on a low mileage newer engine if you're building it up for turbo...your replacing everything anyways.
If you were going to buy another b18a/b to build to avoid downtime on your car, i would suggest getting the highest mileage, cheapest longblock you could find....there's no need to spend a lot of money on a low mileage newer engine if you're building it up for turbo...your replacing everything anyways.
#24
a b18c can be boosted if tuned properly to 12-15 psi I have seen.
but around 10 you would make ~300whp.
don't try to do it non-vtec unless thats all you can afford. Best way would be get a gsr motor, ditch the pistons, rods and crank for the ls one, use forged rods and pistons. easily get 400whp on that set up with a good turbo and manifold.
but around 10 you would make ~300whp.
don't try to do it non-vtec unless thats all you can afford. Best way would be get a gsr motor, ditch the pistons, rods and crank for the ls one, use forged rods and pistons. easily get 400whp on that set up with a good turbo and manifold.
#26
ok true say this my project for this year so in couple of months i ll let you know about my block and yeah i ll probably do the gsr motor i always been a fan for that engine is a good base model to work with
#27
see there's potential in any B-series motor, i'm building a B18B N/A (for now) motor currentley, it should be pretty quick once it's done. also the motor i'm rebuilding had 200,000 km on it but after all the machineing it'll be like a brand new motor. there's lots of engine building threads/sites on the net for hondas that now it's almost like a walkthrough, you just have to look for them.
#29
Darlin, i know you wanna go Turbo, but why?
What is your purpose for building this motor? You gotta know what you want- ie. drag, circuit, street or show.
It really doesn't matter how other people build their motors, you can ask everyone how they built their motor and eveyrone will give you a different response. That's cuz everyone has different goals they want to reach. And of course, different bank balances. Do you have $$$ to spend?? Or are you tight on cash and want to go fast but for little as possible? Do you want to go fast down a straight line or have lots of mid-low range power for circuit, or do you just want pure top speed??
This might help people assist you with your project better.
What is your purpose for building this motor? You gotta know what you want- ie. drag, circuit, street or show.
It really doesn't matter how other people build their motors, you can ask everyone how they built their motor and eveyrone will give you a different response. That's cuz everyone has different goals they want to reach. And of course, different bank balances. Do you have $$$ to spend?? Or are you tight on cash and want to go fast but for little as possible? Do you want to go fast down a straight line or have lots of mid-low range power for circuit, or do you just want pure top speed??
This might help people assist you with your project better.
#30
Originally Posted by luksta
what are you trying to build and what kind of power are you trying to get out of it ?
i'll be happy with 170-180whp aslong as i'm making power throughout the rpm range, i should be making alot of torque tho.
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