Coping with cold weather
11-04-2005, 05:32 PM
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: London
Posts: 1,305
Coping with cold weather
Coping with cold weather
by Jim Kerr
Canada has been blessed with another of winter's icy blasts. It may make us hardier individuals, but it does little to help our vehicles start and run. When the temperature drops to bone chilling levels, metal parts break like glass, rubber stiffens and cracks, and plastic may turn into expensive jig saw puzzles with even the smallest blow. Here are a few tips to get you going, and keep you going through the winter.
Get ready to start your vehicle before you shut it off! Adjust all the controls of the car to where you want them to be when you start it the next morning. Set your heater controls to full warm, airflow to defrost position and the radio to low or off. If a different driver will be operating the vehicle next, adjust the mirrors and seats to a position suitable for them. Operating frozen switches and control levers can cause them to break and replacing them isn't cheap. If you must operate a control, move it slowly, or preferably wait until the interior has begun to warm up.
Another problem with driving in winter is getting the vehicle rolling. Frozen tires are like blocks of ice; they would rather slide than roll. Although radial tires are far superior to older belted tires, they still have flat spots frozen into them for the first kilometre or more. Make sure the tires are inflated to the maximum pressure listed on the vehicle owner's manual, on a sticker in the glove box, or on the driver's doorjamb. This will enable the tires to roll easier when cold and can help you get that car moving first thing in the morning.
Another trick to getting a vehicle moving is to move the vehicle back and forth a couple of metres when you park. This packs the snow in front of the tires and allows you to start moving much easier.
Stepping on the brake pedal is necessary to bring the vehicle to a safe stop, but when parking the vehicle, try to let the vehicle rock a little without stepping on the brake pedal. This lets the disc brake pads move away slightly from the brake rotors so there is less brake drag the next morning. Even a little brake drag can make a tire very difficult to start rolling at bone chilling temperatures.
Ice on the brakes will also stop a wheel from turning. Brakes generate a lot of heat when applied. If you drive through a snow bank and get snow on the brakes immediately before parking the vehicle, it may not move the next day. The wheel brake can freeze solid. Prevent this by letting the brakes cool (use them as little as necessary) before parking the vehicle, and again, rock the vehicle back and forth.
Many Canadian drivers who have survived at least one winter know about block heaters, but few have them checked properly. Most drivers look for a spark at the plug-in when connecting the cord, or listen for the hum of the block heater in the engine (the block heater is exactly like an electric kettle). A poor connection anywhere in the block heater cord may still let the block heater work but it will not produce all the heat it is designed to. The block heater should be checked for resistance or current flow with an ammeter to ensure it is working correctly. The most common trouble spots are at the plug on the car, and the electrical cord just behind the plug. The cord bends often at this spot and the wires may break inside. Feel the cord when it is plugged in. Any warm spots indicate a bad connection and should be repaired to ensure your vehicle will continue starting.
Using as short and heavy an extension cord as possible will also provide better block heater operation. Long extension cords have more internal resistance and use some of the power instead of delivering it to the car.
Finally, watch your oil light or gauge carefully when starting a vehicle in extreme cold. Even 5W-30 engine oil pours like molasses at -40 C and the oiling system inside your engine sometimes can't regulate the pressure properly. The oil pressure can go high enough to blow out the seal on the oil filter and quickly leak the engine oil onto the ground. After the engine has operated for a couple minutes it will usually be safe, but in extreme cold I make a habit of glancing under the vehicle after starting it. If a puddle of oil appears I can turn off the engine before expensive to repair damage has occurred. Sometimes the light or gauge doesn't tell you until it is too late!
by Jim Kerr
Canada has been blessed with another of winter's icy blasts. It may make us hardier individuals, but it does little to help our vehicles start and run. When the temperature drops to bone chilling levels, metal parts break like glass, rubber stiffens and cracks, and plastic may turn into expensive jig saw puzzles with even the smallest blow. Here are a few tips to get you going, and keep you going through the winter.
Get ready to start your vehicle before you shut it off! Adjust all the controls of the car to where you want them to be when you start it the next morning. Set your heater controls to full warm, airflow to defrost position and the radio to low or off. If a different driver will be operating the vehicle next, adjust the mirrors and seats to a position suitable for them. Operating frozen switches and control levers can cause them to break and replacing them isn't cheap. If you must operate a control, move it slowly, or preferably wait until the interior has begun to warm up.
Another problem with driving in winter is getting the vehicle rolling. Frozen tires are like blocks of ice; they would rather slide than roll. Although radial tires are far superior to older belted tires, they still have flat spots frozen into them for the first kilometre or more. Make sure the tires are inflated to the maximum pressure listed on the vehicle owner's manual, on a sticker in the glove box, or on the driver's doorjamb. This will enable the tires to roll easier when cold and can help you get that car moving first thing in the morning.
Another trick to getting a vehicle moving is to move the vehicle back and forth a couple of metres when you park. This packs the snow in front of the tires and allows you to start moving much easier.
Stepping on the brake pedal is necessary to bring the vehicle to a safe stop, but when parking the vehicle, try to let the vehicle rock a little without stepping on the brake pedal. This lets the disc brake pads move away slightly from the brake rotors so there is less brake drag the next morning. Even a little brake drag can make a tire very difficult to start rolling at bone chilling temperatures.
Ice on the brakes will also stop a wheel from turning. Brakes generate a lot of heat when applied. If you drive through a snow bank and get snow on the brakes immediately before parking the vehicle, it may not move the next day. The wheel brake can freeze solid. Prevent this by letting the brakes cool (use them as little as necessary) before parking the vehicle, and again, rock the vehicle back and forth.
Many Canadian drivers who have survived at least one winter know about block heaters, but few have them checked properly. Most drivers look for a spark at the plug-in when connecting the cord, or listen for the hum of the block heater in the engine (the block heater is exactly like an electric kettle). A poor connection anywhere in the block heater cord may still let the block heater work but it will not produce all the heat it is designed to. The block heater should be checked for resistance or current flow with an ammeter to ensure it is working correctly. The most common trouble spots are at the plug on the car, and the electrical cord just behind the plug. The cord bends often at this spot and the wires may break inside. Feel the cord when it is plugged in. Any warm spots indicate a bad connection and should be repaired to ensure your vehicle will continue starting.
Using as short and heavy an extension cord as possible will also provide better block heater operation. Long extension cords have more internal resistance and use some of the power instead of delivering it to the car.
Finally, watch your oil light or gauge carefully when starting a vehicle in extreme cold. Even 5W-30 engine oil pours like molasses at -40 C and the oiling system inside your engine sometimes can't regulate the pressure properly. The oil pressure can go high enough to blow out the seal on the oil filter and quickly leak the engine oil onto the ground. After the engine has operated for a couple minutes it will usually be safe, but in extreme cold I make a habit of glancing under the vehicle after starting it. If a puddle of oil appears I can turn off the engine before expensive to repair damage has occurred. Sometimes the light or gauge doesn't tell you until it is too late!
11-04-2005, 05:34 PM
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: London
Posts: 1,305
Getting Ready for winter driving
by Jim Kerr
Warm fall days can make procrastinators out of the best of us, but winter is always just around the corner and fall is the time to get your vehicle ready. Many of the checks can be made at home or are done at low cost by most repair shops. Here are a few items that should be checked every year.
The engine coolant, a mixture of water and antifreeze, should be tested and recycled if necessary. Many people think coolant that tests to -40 C is fine, but that may not be true. Most antifreeze has a life span of two years, although five-year long-life antifreeze has been on the market since 1996. After that time, the corrosion protecting chemicals and water pump lubricants mixed in the antifreeze are used up. The coolant becomes corrosive and starts to eat at metal parts inside the engine and cooling system. Expensive to repair leaks can soon develop.
Most repair shops are now using antifreeze recycling machines. These machines are easy to use tools designed to flush the cooling system, clean your old coolant, and fill the vehicle with rejuvenated coolant. This method also reduces the amount of waste antifreeze that must be disposed of; a costly part of doing business that no longer has to be passed on to the customer.
During a cooling system flush, the old coolant is removed from the vehicle into the recycling machine, and then water is forced throughout the system and drained. Some machines also use low pressure blasts of air to help agitate the water as it passed through to remove as much sediment from the cooling system as possible. Next, the old coolant in the machine is filtered and a technician tests it for its strength (freezing point) and its PH balance. Some new antifreeze can be added if necessary to increase the coolant's strength. An additive is added to balance the PH level of the coolant so it is no longer corrosive, and finally a chemical package containing extra corrosion protecting materials and water pump lubricant is added. Now the recycled coolant is pumped back into your cooling system.
Checking the level of your vehicle's coolant can easily be done at home by looking at the level inside the radiator overflow tank. Hot and cold coolant levels are usually marked on the side and the tank is often translucent so removing the cap is not necessary. When the engine is hot, the coolant expands and is forced past a valve in the radiator cap and out into the overflow tank. As the engine cools, the coolant contracts and the resulting vacuum pulls coolant from the tank back into the radiator again. "Topping up" the coolant is done by adding to the overflow tank. Removing the radiator cap is not necessary and should only be done when there is no coolant in the overflow tank. Never remove the radiator cap on a warm engine because the pressure release could allow the coolant to boil and badly burn anybody nearby.
Another item to check is the block heater. Check for a damaged or frayed cord. A common place for the cord to break is right next to the plug. The outer insulation may appear fine, but the wires inside break. If the cord seems very flexible at this point or you notice a hot spot on the cord when plugged in, then you need a new cord. Sometimes the cord can be shortened slightly and just a new plug will repair the problem. Listen for a slight hissing sound when the block heater is plugged in. The heater works the same as an electric kettle and sounds similar. If you cannot hear anything, the block heater should be tested with a meter by a technician.
The Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable are using a novel idea for their block heater cord. A special socket is mounted under the bumper that holds the block heater cord plug in a fixed position. No longer is it necessary to use two hands to plug in the vehicle (convenient when your arms are full of groceries or kids). While I am not currently in the market for a new vehicle, I thought perhaps I could perhaps adapt this convenient feature onto my existing vehicle. I am surprised no one has marketed this wonderful idea before now!
Install new wiper blades on your vehicle. You will not believe the difference in wet weather visibility it makes! Wiper blades harden with age. They may look fine but don't wipe clean. The blades only cost a few dollars and can be changed in a couple minutes.
Check that exhaust system. A leaky exhaust system can allow deadly carbon monoxide gas to enter the passenger compartment more easily. If you have noticed your exhaust sounds louder or you can see exhaust fumes under your car when it is started on a cool morning, have the system checked immediately. The muffler and exhaust pipes should be physically inspected for holes and soft (rusted) spots. This is best done on a hoist so you may prefer to have it done by your regular repair shop.
There are many other checks to be made. Tires, lights, brakes, battery condition, heater operation, oil levels, and engine tune should all be part of regular winter preparations. Newer vehicles require less maintenance but still will require some of these!
Waiting till the snow hits the ground can mean long waits for service at repair shops and tire dealers. Fall is usually a quiet time for many repair shops so convenient times can be arranged to have your vehicle serviced. Even better, money saving coupons can often be found in local newspapers and are a bargain for those non-procrastinators among us.
by Jim Kerr
Warm fall days can make procrastinators out of the best of us, but winter is always just around the corner and fall is the time to get your vehicle ready. Many of the checks can be made at home or are done at low cost by most repair shops. Here are a few items that should be checked every year.
The engine coolant, a mixture of water and antifreeze, should be tested and recycled if necessary. Many people think coolant that tests to -40 C is fine, but that may not be true. Most antifreeze has a life span of two years, although five-year long-life antifreeze has been on the market since 1996. After that time, the corrosion protecting chemicals and water pump lubricants mixed in the antifreeze are used up. The coolant becomes corrosive and starts to eat at metal parts inside the engine and cooling system. Expensive to repair leaks can soon develop.
Most repair shops are now using antifreeze recycling machines. These machines are easy to use tools designed to flush the cooling system, clean your old coolant, and fill the vehicle with rejuvenated coolant. This method also reduces the amount of waste antifreeze that must be disposed of; a costly part of doing business that no longer has to be passed on to the customer.
During a cooling system flush, the old coolant is removed from the vehicle into the recycling machine, and then water is forced throughout the system and drained. Some machines also use low pressure blasts of air to help agitate the water as it passed through to remove as much sediment from the cooling system as possible. Next, the old coolant in the machine is filtered and a technician tests it for its strength (freezing point) and its PH balance. Some new antifreeze can be added if necessary to increase the coolant's strength. An additive is added to balance the PH level of the coolant so it is no longer corrosive, and finally a chemical package containing extra corrosion protecting materials and water pump lubricant is added. Now the recycled coolant is pumped back into your cooling system.
Checking the level of your vehicle's coolant can easily be done at home by looking at the level inside the radiator overflow tank. Hot and cold coolant levels are usually marked on the side and the tank is often translucent so removing the cap is not necessary. When the engine is hot, the coolant expands and is forced past a valve in the radiator cap and out into the overflow tank. As the engine cools, the coolant contracts and the resulting vacuum pulls coolant from the tank back into the radiator again. "Topping up" the coolant is done by adding to the overflow tank. Removing the radiator cap is not necessary and should only be done when there is no coolant in the overflow tank. Never remove the radiator cap on a warm engine because the pressure release could allow the coolant to boil and badly burn anybody nearby.
Another item to check is the block heater. Check for a damaged or frayed cord. A common place for the cord to break is right next to the plug. The outer insulation may appear fine, but the wires inside break. If the cord seems very flexible at this point or you notice a hot spot on the cord when plugged in, then you need a new cord. Sometimes the cord can be shortened slightly and just a new plug will repair the problem. Listen for a slight hissing sound when the block heater is plugged in. The heater works the same as an electric kettle and sounds similar. If you cannot hear anything, the block heater should be tested with a meter by a technician.
The Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable are using a novel idea for their block heater cord. A special socket is mounted under the bumper that holds the block heater cord plug in a fixed position. No longer is it necessary to use two hands to plug in the vehicle (convenient when your arms are full of groceries or kids). While I am not currently in the market for a new vehicle, I thought perhaps I could perhaps adapt this convenient feature onto my existing vehicle. I am surprised no one has marketed this wonderful idea before now!
Install new wiper blades on your vehicle. You will not believe the difference in wet weather visibility it makes! Wiper blades harden with age. They may look fine but don't wipe clean. The blades only cost a few dollars and can be changed in a couple minutes.
Check that exhaust system. A leaky exhaust system can allow deadly carbon monoxide gas to enter the passenger compartment more easily. If you have noticed your exhaust sounds louder or you can see exhaust fumes under your car when it is started on a cool morning, have the system checked immediately. The muffler and exhaust pipes should be physically inspected for holes and soft (rusted) spots. This is best done on a hoist so you may prefer to have it done by your regular repair shop.
There are many other checks to be made. Tires, lights, brakes, battery condition, heater operation, oil levels, and engine tune should all be part of regular winter preparations. Newer vehicles require less maintenance but still will require some of these!
Waiting till the snow hits the ground can mean long waits for service at repair shops and tire dealers. Fall is usually a quiet time for many repair shops so convenient times can be arranged to have your vehicle serviced. Even better, money saving coupons can often be found in local newspapers and are a bargain for those non-procrastinators among us.
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