Eric D.

Here is some instructions from PIC's coilovers (the same type of setup and independent height adjustment as the tein flex's)

Height and Preload should be set in the following manner (Keep in mind that ride height will lower slightly after the springs have settled in; allow for roughly 0.2" of drop due to settling):

Step 0: Remember to keep track of your nuts and bolts. Plastic baggies, masking tape, whatever; know what went where and where it is. It sucks not being able to finish the install because you lost a nut. Also, Anti-seize where possible to make future changes a breeze. You will likely run into a few seized/difficult bolts the first time, so a good soaking of PB Blaster/Liquid WRench/penetrating oil + heat from a propane torch will definitely help break up any seized or rusted bolts.

Step 1: Remove stock suspension. In the front this means removing the two 14mm nuts on the top of the shock towers under the hood (A). Then, remove the 17mm bolt holding the fork to the lower control arm (B). You will need 2 17mm sockets (or wrench) to remove this, one to turn the bolt and the other to secure the nut on the other side and keep it from spinning with the bolt. To remove the damper from the fork, loosen the 14mm bolt holding on the top of the fork (C). Then, remove the fork and damper. In the rears, remove the two 14mm on top of the shock tower (usually hidden under the trunk lining/cover) (D). Then, remove the 14mm bolt holding the shock to the lower control arm (E). You may have to also remove the 14mm bolt holding the lower control arm to the trailing arm and/or swaybar endlink, so that you have more room to remove the stock damper/spring assembly by swinging the lower control arm down (F). Note: the 14mm shock-to-lca bolt is secured by a nut that is welded on to the shock fork itself. Many aftermarket coilovers do not utilize this same design (no nut welded onto the lower fork), meaning you will need to have a 14mm when installing the new suspension (or use the one supplied).

Step 1 1/2: After adjusting your new coilovers to more or less the same heights, and determining a pre-set height to adjust from, begin fitting them into place.

Step 2: With coilover in place on the car, tighten the two 14mm nuts on the shock towers (front and rear). This is made easier with two sets of hands; one to hold the unit in place, the other to tighten the nuts (Ga). (Alternatively, you may choose to secure the lower part of the assembly first, so that the the shock rests on the LCA and you can secure the tops at your leisure.)(Gb) Step 3: Attach the lower mount to the lower control arm/fork, but do NOT TIGHTEN COMPLETELY. If you did not to this in Step 2, do it now. In the front, it is the 14mm bolt that tightens the fork around the lower part of your new shock, and also the 17mm bolt + nut holding the lower part of the fork to the lca. In the rear, it is installing the 14mm bolt holding the shock fork to the lower control arm (don't forget that new 14mm bolt on the other side), and the 14mm connecting the lower control arm to the trailing arm (if you removed it), as well as the swaybar endlinks to the lower control arm. Lining up the rear holes will be difficult, especially the last few that you choose to do. Whether it is the trailing-arm bolt (after doing the swaybar endlink and fork), or fork (after doing swaybar endlink and trailing arm), or whatever: the last one will be difficult to line up in order to thread the bolt through. An easy method is to use a scissor jack to raise the suspension assembly upwards to force the holes to line up. Then, use a screwdriver to "leverage" the bushing and the hole you need to match it up with (H). Use the fluid and manageable movement of the scissor jack to slowly line the hole up. Combined with a constant jiggling and occasional hammering of the bolt, you will eventually get the bolt through. Remember, do not tighten any nuts yet. Your goal is to simply get the bolts through this step.

Step 4: The setting (or re-setting) of your bushings. An important and often over-looked step, this ensure that at the car's static ride height (the height at which it will sit most of the time), your lower suspension's bushings are not twisted due to a load being applied to them (preload, essentially). You want your bushings untwisted and unloaded at static ride height, to lenghten their lives. To do this (individually, one at a time) at each corner, with the coilver assembly installed but without the nuts tightened, use a scissor jack to raise the suspension assembly upwards until the car raises slightly off of the jack stands (you *are* using jackstands, aren't you?). At the point where the car begins to raise off the jackstands, you know that at that moment, the car's weight at that corner is being supported by the spring itself; effectively, this is how the suspension will be at static ride height (I). Think about it. Then, and only then, tighten all the nuts. In the front, this would be the 17mm holding the fork to the lower control arm. In the rear, this is the 14mm nut holding the fork to the lower control arm, and lower control arm to the trailing arm (and/or the nut holding the lower control arm to the chassis if you loosened this for some reason). Tightening them now ensure that this is where the bushings will be "set", which is static ride height.

Step 5: Raise the spring perch lock and spring perch upwards until there is no up-down play in the spring and the upper mount, then tighten further until you are able to turn the spring by hand with a good amount of drag (J). Then tighten the spring perch against the spring perch lock as tightly as possible, so that turning one turns the other as well.

Step 6: To adjust height, use the spanner wrench to turn the spring perch/spring perch lock combination. To lower the ride height you turn clockwise. To raise the ride height you turn counter-clockwise (K).

Step 7: Mount the wheels, and lower the car onto the ground (start with one end, then do the other). Front corners and rear corners should be relatively equal, +/- ~2mm. If you are unsatisfied with the wheel clearance, repeat steps 4 through 6 until desired heights have been achieved.

Step 8: When you have reached your desired ride height at all four corners, raise one end, remove the wheels, and proceed to tighten the lower mount lock, and spring perch lock. Then lower the car onto the ground.

Step 9: Double-check all nuts and parts that might've been loosened for the adjustment process.

Step 10: Some amount of settling is normal in springs, so allow between 4mm - 5mm of settling to occur during the course of driving. Depending on driving habits, settling can take from a few days up to a month or more.