Fyrehawk

Okay, perhaps this i just a fluke.

Have a 95 Teg, and wont start ...

Drove the car 2 days ago, went to start it today, engine would turn over but not catch. It rained most of yesterday, so im guessin it could possibly be moisture somewhere in the wires.
This has happened once before on a sunny winter afternoon bout 3 months ago. Since then the car would start almost immediately.

Goin to try the car in an hour see if it will start - hopin it was just moisture, is there any way to prevent this from happenin or is it just a random thing that happens ?

Fyrehawk

After doin some massive readin on the tech service manual and being locked out of the shed where all my tools are (so i cant even check the spark plugs), i have discovered it can be a few things ... after i did a Self-Diagnostic on the Service Check Connector

The Engine Light stays on, indicating its either 1 or 3.
I dont think its the Fuel pump cuz i can hear it hum when i click it over to ON, but considerin checkin #2 anyhoots. According to the Troubleshooting, says to start with 1 then move to 2 and so fourth.

still bit baffled on why it would run 2 days earlier with no problems then all a sudden it wont start. to me that just seems weird - only thought would be electrical perhaps the PGM-F1 Main Relay. Either way guess ill have my work cut out for me for the next few days ...

1- Engine Control Module
in which i can only test up to a certain point cuz i aint goin out of my way to buy a $500+ test harness

2- Other Fuel Supply; a: Fuel Pump, b: PGM-F1 Main Relay, c: Fuel Filter
I can test all those, other then the Relay to a point without a test harness

3- Ignition Output Signal
and/or Top Dead Center/Cracnkshaft Position/Cylinder Position Sensor

mike1787

hi about the main relay take ot apart( side the board out from the bottom) and check all of the soder spots if you see any cracked soilder them all back. ive seen many fial due to that

irsdb7

does the car start at night? i had a problem like this before where during the day when the car got hot it would not start

it was the main fuel relay its located under the dash close to the hood release its a gray box sometimes taping it will work too but yeah you can open it and resolder the connections

Fyrehawk

thanx for the info, mike - ill keep an eye on that.
Ill check the main relay tomorrow, thanx for the input

also brought to my attention that could be moisture in the disturbitor cap too, or clogged spark plugs. either way ill have plenty to look into tomorrow. hoping its just moisture or clog plugs

Buff4Prez Yo

iTrader: (2)

could be the coil or ignition module. but for that the ecu should blink the proper code. sounds like an ecu to me.

Fyrehawk

but i dont want it to be the cu ... that will cost money to fix lol

JDM_overdose

iTrader: (9)

you can get a brand new one for around 60$

Fyrehawk

actually, the ECM is priced at 295-425 brand new.
Accordin to alot of part shops, its also refered to an ICM, supposely Acura/Honda has different names for parts compared to other aftermarket companies.
Wasnt fun findin stores that actually had one even for a price check

I checked couple recyclers up here, and pickin a workin/tested one up tomorrow for 125
If i had more time and didnt need the car asap, i would look down south for parts.

the tegs are rare up here, seen like 4 other tegs up here. 1 2nd gen, and 3 3rd gen - not includin mine.

I couldnt even get winter tires for the Teg up in North Bay, picked some up in Burlington last December

Buff4Prez Yo

iTrader: (2)

ICM = ignition control module. that's in your distributor

JDM_overdose

iTrader: (9)

call jdm engine land.

Fyrehawk

well then the parts stores are complete ediots :P

one found it right off the bat, car quest couldnt even find a ECM
bunch of them claimed it was ISC/ICM .. an im sittin there sayin, look buddy its an ECM.
Tech service manual says it is ...

but anyhoots, i found a used one for 125, they at least knew what an ECM was and where it was in the car

irsdb7

you are getting a check engine light correct? how about you grab the code
follow this guide http://www.team-integra.net/sections...p?ArticleID=34

once you do that then you can determine what to do

i very much doubt its the ecu/ecm (same thing)
i would check if your getting spark. if not i bet its either your coil or ICM (ignition control module) both are in your distributor

Fyrehawk

ya i followed the code troubleshootin in the tech service manual, same thing as your link and it says its the ECM/ECU.
But before i jump the gun, ill do tests on the Ignition coil, and if that passes test the ICM.

to be on the safe side, thanx for your suggestion

Buff4Prez Yo

iTrader: (2)

hey hey, be nice. i work at a parts store.

Fyrehawk

no offensive to you - was referin to the ones i talked to up here

Fyrehawk

Okay, this getting absolutely mind babbling.

After myself, a neighbour and the neighbour's friend the mechanic, poked and stared and fiddled ...we all baffled on why it wont start.

Theres Spark, Theres Fuel, Theres Compression, she cracks over, but doesnt start.

Swapped relays, check voltage, check resistance, check the fuses, all are fine.
swapped out the distrubitor, new plugs, has fuel has oil, fuel pump is pumpin fuel.

there is NO engine light on with ignition at ON position as well, indicating theres no computer code

letting her air out over night, removed the plugs, and will put the plugs in the morning an hopefully she starts. as there seems nothing wrong ..

What i was wonderin, could a sensor cuz the engine not to start ?

mike1787

do you have a compresser and blow the cylinder out. to help dry out them out faster and hows the timing belt (going from above any jumped teeth?? couse if you have all 3 it should start unless timing is shot)

Fyrehawk

i checked the timing belt, looks fine.
was also suggested perhaps it could be a clogged exhaust
as for a compressor, no - sorta doin this all in the unit's parking spot - maybe one day ill have one, but not at the moment

Burfy

iTrader: (2)

Timing? That's the only thing left to check if you have compression, spark and fuel.. If not try unbolting your down-pipe from your cat.. We've had trucks come in during the winter and they had a brick of ice in the exhaust that prevented the engine from running..

When you say there's no engine light on with key on, you mean it lights up when you turn the key on and then goes out?

Fyrehawk

yah, it does the test check of the light, then goes out like its suppose to, it doesnt stay on indicating there is a engine code in the ecm

yah talked to a few garages up here and 4 out 6 garages i called today think its the timing is out of whack. so ill get that done an hope it all works out lol ...

Fyrehawk

Well an update ...

Unfornately its worse then we excepted. (starting to hate 0 clearence engines now)
3 out of 4 cyclinders have no compression, along with that bent valves in the head.

Due to that, im not going to spend 2000+ on the job (did that with the '90)

Not sure if the bent valves happened on the last day it ran or not, just know they are there now. Just thought id let u all know who has put input in on what the possible problem was.

Thanks for all your help anyhoots.

FH

irsdb7

well aint that a bitch i guess now you have a hard to find parts car for the other teg owners in your area