Cam Grinding
Depends on the lift of the new cam. Some mild cams can do just fine with oem valvetrain. That's as long as you don't decide you want to rev to 12k rpm lol.
Valvetrain needs to be upgraded according to lift of the cam and max rpm. Valve springs tend to float when you over rev like mad
and they also tend to bind with higher lift. Follow manufacturers recommendation.
Valvetrain needs to be upgraded according to lift of the cam and max rpm. Valve springs tend to float when you over rev like mad
and they also tend to bind with higher lift. Follow manufacturers recommendation.
Some cam manufacturers sell "blanks" where the lobes have not yet been machined to spec. These are often used by race teams or tuners who want very specific cam lobe profiles and have them ground to the exact lift and duration specs they want.
What are you plans for the car/engine? How much power do you want to make? Or were you just curious about cam grinding?
Yeah alot of other people are telling me to buy aftermarket. I'm just doing some looking up on it lol Any suggested brands? Crower seems to have some good product and prices. I pretty much want to get as big of cam as I can without having to do a full CPU tune. I would also plan doing a full valvetrain upgrade aswell.
Um what? So you want to slap in a huge cam, and not get tuned? What the hell is the point of that? You want to push in more air while using stock fuel maps which results in a wrong afr.
How about list these:
-Engine
-power goals
-budget.
Since you could just throw in a s2 pro2 cam in there and loose loads of power since it requires a higher 12:1 preferably 13:1 cpr, but do you really wanna do that?
Oh and tune is absolutely 100% required, unless you go with a different oem cam, which you will get away with but you won't really benefit as much as you could...
How about list these:
-Engine
-power goals
-budget.
Since you could just throw in a s2 pro2 cam in there and loose loads of power since it requires a higher 12:1 preferably 13:1 cpr, but do you really wanna do that?
Oh and tune is absolutely 100% required, unless you go with a different oem cam, which you will get away with but you won't really benefit as much as you could...
you can re-grind cams to copy a spec, you can have gsr/itr cams done to a skunk2 tuner 1 or bc stage 1/2 profile, then it has to be heat treated, when its all said and done its better to buy cams, if you are N/A you can drop skunk tuner1's in they are a bit more aggressive than itr/ctr and you dont need upgraded valvetrain, these cams also do wonders for boosted setups gaining 20-30 whp, the bc stage 2 cams are very similar to the skunks but will make slightly more power, these recommend valvetrain but not necessary.
^That requires first adding material to the cam lobes prior to grinding.
You're right though, It's not worth it. Just buy new cams.
Any cam upgrade, where the rpm, lift and duration is increased, valve springs and retainers should be upgraded. No sense in changing the cams and having a valve spring fail because you were too cheap.
You're right though, It's not worth it. Just buy new cams.
Any cam upgrade, where the rpm, lift and duration is increased, valve springs and retainers should be upgraded. No sense in changing the cams and having a valve spring fail because you were too cheap.
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