Broken Clutch question....
#1
Broken Clutch question....
Hey guys, I recently had to put 87 octane in my car so I only put $5 bucks in till I found a Sunoco. Then my clutch blew. Could these be related? LMK if you guys had experience with this. Thanks.
#5
no no no. this is what happened. the clutch worked fine when I used the 94 octane, then all of a sudden i put the 87 octane in then the clutch breaks. There was no sign of the clutch going out. i'm never using 87 octane again.
#8
1. drain the 87 octane out of tank.
2. put exactly $8.50 worth of 94 octane in.
3. turn your car to the ignition position.
4. press your e-brake button the number of kms you drove on 87 octane.
5. connect an extention cord from your computer to the car (it only needs to touch, as the next step is done through diffusion)
6. turn your computer on and press "alt" and "f4"
this might work. if it doesn't, you need to change your clutch seals.
2. put exactly $8.50 worth of 94 octane in.
3. turn your car to the ignition position.
4. press your e-brake button the number of kms you drove on 87 octane.
5. connect an extention cord from your computer to the car (it only needs to touch, as the next step is done through diffusion)
6. turn your computer on and press "alt" and "f4"
this might work. if it doesn't, you need to change your clutch seals.
#12
1. drain the 87 octane out of tank.
2. put exactly $8.50 worth of 94 octane in.
3. turn your car to the ignition position.
4. press your e-brake button the number of kms you drove on 87 octane.
5. connect an extention cord from your computer to the car (it only needs to touch, as the next step is done through diffusion)
6. turn your computer on and press "alt" and "f4"
this might work. if it doesn't, you need to change your clutch seals.
2. put exactly $8.50 worth of 94 octane in.
3. turn your car to the ignition position.
4. press your e-brake button the number of kms you drove on 87 octane.
5. connect an extention cord from your computer to the car (it only needs to touch, as the next step is done through diffusion)
6. turn your computer on and press "alt" and "f4"
this might work. if it doesn't, you need to change your clutch seals.
#15
did you use cash or credit card to pay for the gas?
#18
The bottom line is that if you have an UNMODIFIED engine use what the
owners manual calls for. Using low octane gas in a car designed for high
octane will cause a loss of performance (due to timing being retarded when
the knock sensor detects detonation...often before you can hear it). Using
high octane gas in a vehicle designed for low octane may cause hard cold
starts, poor cold drivability, stalling, loss of money, etc. If your low
octane car pings constantly (a small amount of ping under hard
accelleration IS normal) with low octane fuel have the timing checked, EGR
valve checked, spark plugs checked (for proper heat range and wear),
crossfiring plug wires, combustion chamber deposits etc. Do this only
after having tried several different brands of fuel. Use what you need and
no more than that. Putting 105 in a escort will have about the same effect
as installing split-fires, Beljans wonder juice, and a fuel line magnet (a
net loss of money with no real benefit). One exception to this is you may
want to run a mid grade gas (name brand) occasionally through because they
tend to have more cleaner additives than low grade fuel (especially
no-name brands).
Found this
If a high compression engine has to be operated with low octane
rated fuel, say on 87 when 93 is required, do not run the engine
at full throttle or full load at any RPM. That will only cause
harmful pre-ignition. Also, do not run the engine at high RPMs,
high temperatures, or for long periods of time with the low octane
rated fuel.
Low octane fuels run in a high compression engine will cause
pre-ignition whether or not you hear the detonations or pinging.
The engine's knock sensor will detect the pre-ignition and will
retard the ignition. That necessarily means that the engine will
burn the fuel less efficiently and produce less power with less
fuel economy.
and this
owners manual calls for. Using low octane gas in a car designed for high
octane will cause a loss of performance (due to timing being retarded when
the knock sensor detects detonation...often before you can hear it). Using
high octane gas in a vehicle designed for low octane may cause hard cold
starts, poor cold drivability, stalling, loss of money, etc. If your low
octane car pings constantly (a small amount of ping under hard
accelleration IS normal) with low octane fuel have the timing checked, EGR
valve checked, spark plugs checked (for proper heat range and wear),
crossfiring plug wires, combustion chamber deposits etc. Do this only
after having tried several different brands of fuel. Use what you need and
no more than that. Putting 105 in a escort will have about the same effect
as installing split-fires, Beljans wonder juice, and a fuel line magnet (a
net loss of money with no real benefit). One exception to this is you may
want to run a mid grade gas (name brand) occasionally through because they
tend to have more cleaner additives than low grade fuel (especially
no-name brands).
Found this
If a high compression engine has to be operated with low octane
rated fuel, say on 87 when 93 is required, do not run the engine
at full throttle or full load at any RPM. That will only cause
harmful pre-ignition. Also, do not run the engine at high RPMs,
high temperatures, or for long periods of time with the low octane
rated fuel.
Low octane fuels run in a high compression engine will cause
pre-ignition whether or not you hear the detonations or pinging.
The engine's knock sensor will detect the pre-ignition and will
retard the ignition. That necessarily means that the engine will
burn the fuel less efficiently and produce less power with less
fuel economy.
and this
Last edited by 1DA2NV; 04-28-2007 at 11:40 PM.
#19
who is your mechanic? is he good? i'm looking find someone to build me a t3/t4 turboed spoon engine with a 150 shot.
#20
i'm not sure. at least your mechanic sounds honest and doesn't suggest unnecessary repairs. mine told me my vtec condenser pack needed to be recalibrated. luckily, he said i could pay half now and half later, so i still owe him $425....
who is your mechanic? is he good? i'm looking find someone to build me a t3/t4 turboed spoon engine with a 150 shot.
who is your mechanic? is he good? i'm looking find someone to build me a t3/t4 turboed spoon engine with a 150 shot.
what is that? in bold
#21
#23
So I talked to my mechanic and he scolded me for using 87 octane in the car. He talked about that "pre-detenation" stuff that Marko said and wasn't surprised that the clutch blew because I used such a low octane. The clutch def'n pulled harder with the Sunoco 94.
Here's another question: If I used 94 octane + octane boost, what kind of results can I get? (ie: 1/4 mile times) I'd really like to test this theory out. I'm speculating it would shave at lest 1/2 a sec. of your time. Any input guys?
Here's another question: If I used 94 octane + octane boost, what kind of results can I get? (ie: 1/4 mile times) I'd really like to test this theory out. I'm speculating it would shave at lest 1/2 a sec. of your time. Any input guys?
#24
well isnt octane like a fire retardant, the more octane the harder it is to burn fuel, so octane is a measure of how well a fuel resists premature combustion, or “knocking.” Gasoline with too low an octane rating converts fuel to heat rather than power, making for less efficient fuel usage and reduced engine life.
#25
#26
Wait a minute - you didn't call your vtec rep? You know that you will void your warranty without consulting with them first, right? That's what my rep told me, at least. When I thought my consender pack was going, I took it to my mechanic and he said the same thing (condenser pack) but I didn't believe him, so I called my rep. He said I had to replace the Johnson Rods in the sending unit. Now my vtec works all the time.
#27
The good thing about the vtec condenser pack is that you can install it in any car and instantly have vtec. And just the like GS-R versus the LS/RS/GS, you get an extra 30hp! I'm so glad I installed one on my 2 cars, and my parents cars too. (Nissan, Mazda, Volvo and BMW).
The only issue I have now is finding some cross-drilled brake lines. Anyone got some leads on those??
The only issue I have now is finding some cross-drilled brake lines. Anyone got some leads on those??
#28