b16 v.s H22
#3
B16's lacks torque, and in a heavier G3 integra, would suck nuts.
H22's require a lot of mods in order to fit in a G3 integra, and prob not worth all the money and loss of structural integrity.
save yourself the trouble and get a gsr or type-r motor.
H22's require a lot of mods in order to fit in a G3 integra, and prob not worth all the money and loss of structural integrity.
save yourself the trouble and get a gsr or type-r motor.
#9
the thing is i dont wanna spend more than 1 g on the engine. soo i dont no what to do. i just want somthing faster than it is now. SOMTHING FOR NOW. TILL I GET MONEY FOR TYPE R.
Last edited by IntegraRS; 01-27-2006 at 12:34 AM.
#14
If it were me i'd do the work and go with an H22 just because it makes good numbers,Be prepared to spend money for new mounts,axles,ecu,wiring etc when you buy it thou.
B16 won't go for ---- in you're car,it's to heavy,Wouldn't be worth it.
B16 won't go for ---- in you're car,it's to heavy,Wouldn't be worth it.
#15
ok the thing is im gonna get the engine for whole engine for 7 bills and me and my dad are gonna install it.and it comes with an esu. how much woulkd the mounts be and what els would i need to buy and how much would it cost.? CHECK THIS OUT
http://images.google.ca/imgres?imgur...lr%3D%26sa%3DN
http://images.google.ca/imgres?imgur...lr%3D%26sa%3DN
Last edited by IntegraRS; 01-27-2006 at 01:02 AM.
#16
Originally Posted by IntegraRS
yo nbk i have a ls motor in right now what would u suggest to do ?
research for ls/vtec if you get it built and tuned properly it would be just as reliable as any motor.
Read this to see if it interests you
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0411scc_hybrid/
and heres a FAQ i copied it also very helpful if you're clueless about the ls/vtec
************************************************** ***
B20/LSVTEC FAQ
Q: How long will my LS/B20VTEC motor last?
A: A well-built setup should last as long as any Honda motor.
Q: How much does a LS/B20VTEC setup cost?
A: It depends. A basic LSVTEC long block can be put together for around $1000 $US worth of parts.
Q: What’s the best ECU for my LS/B20VTEC?
A: During the break-in period, a stock LS (P75) or GSR (P72) ECU can be used. For the best performance results, the engine needs to be tuned. The options are uberdata, Crome, Hondata, NepTune and … along with a socketed ECU or more professional, standalone ECUs such as AEM EMS, Motec and ….
Q: What oil pump do I need?
A: It is better to run a VTEC oil pump.
Q: What timing belt do I need?
A: It depends on the type of water pump used. A GSR/ITR belt should be used if a 22T VTEC water pump is used. An LS belt should be used if you’re using an LS water pump.
Q: What head gasket do I need?
A: An OEM LS/B20 head gasket should be used. The dowel pin holes need to be enlarged to accept the wider VTEC dowel pins. The alternative is to use a Golden Eagle B20/LSVTEC head gasket.
Q: What VTEC oil supply kit do I need?
A: You can buy a pre-made kit such as the Golden Eagle kit. There are a lot of different kits on EBay also. You can build your own kit too. The fitting size for the head is a 3/8 BSP (or NPT), and for the block is a 1/8 BSP (or NPT). What you need is a 3/8” BSP (or NPT) to 6AN adapter, about 2 feet of 6AN SS braided line, 2 6AN female ends, and the appropriate fitting for the block (depending how many accessories you want to run off the oil pressure sensor location). Use thread sealant on all the connections.
Q: What OEM piston options do I have?
A: For an LSVTEC, you can use B16, GSR, ITR or CTR pistons to bump up the compression. For a B20VTEC, you’re only limited to B20B and B20Z pistons.
Q: How high can I rev my motor safely?
A: B20 blocks have weak sleeves that are prone to failing under high cylinder wall loads. For maximum longevity, it’s best to keep to rpms within the factory suggested range (redline of 7000 rpm). A few higher revs once in a while wouldn’t hurt the motor. LS blocks are stronger than B20s and can take more abuse, but an engine should be revved up to where it’s making power.
Q: How does the B20VTEC and boost/nitrous combination work?
A: We don’t recommend this at all. A few people here and there have had luck, but most of the people who have attempted this have failed miserably. B20 sleeves are very weak and prone to failing under high cylinder wall loads.
Q: What cylinder head is best for my B20/LSVTEC setup?
A: In the stock shape, ITR/CTR would be the best, due to its better cams, lighter valves, superior LMAs, better valve springs and the mildly ported intake runners. If ITR/CTR is not within the price range, the other options are B16/B17 or GSR. B16/B17 heads flow better than GSRs, but GSRs have smaller combustion chambers, so they would yield slightly higher compression ratios. It is best to make up the compression ratio with proper size pistons and use a better flowing head.
Q: Do I need a crank girdle with my B20/LSVTEC setup?
A: Unless it’s a full-blown race motor that will be revved insanely high, a crank girdle won’t be needed.
Q: Can I use a block guard to increase the strength of my block?
A: Block guards are garbage. They restrict the flow of coolant where coolant is needed the most, where most of the cracks start, top of the sleeves! Block posting is a more effective method than using a block guard.
B20/LSVTEC Parts List
This is a parts list to put together a basic B20/LSVTEC long block.
• VTEC Cylinder Head Assembly (B16, GSR, ITR)
• B20/LS Block
• B20/LS Head Gasket (depending on which block you go with)
• Stepped dowel pins
• Cylinder Head Drain Plug (1/8” NPT plug and tap)
• VTEC Oil Supply Line
• GSR/ITR Head Studs/Bolts
• LS/B20 Water Pump and Timing Belt or GSR/ITR/B16 Water pump and Timing belt
__________________
#17
Ya i think im gonna go with the h22 then. check out this sick site i found
http://images.google.ca/imgres?imgur...lr%3D%26sa%3DN
http://images.google.ca/imgres?imgur...lr%3D%26sa%3DN
#19
you guys are exaggerating about how hard it is to throw an h22 in a teg...its really not... shops usually charge about the same labour regardless... a friend of mine did an H22 into a g3, and an automatic to manual swap at ETD for 5500 out the door.... auto to manual swap included...
#20
Yeah, I can believe $5500 since alot of the parts needed are OEM from other Hondas.
NORMAL LEGIT Price for a complete H22 is $1800-2300 for non-LSD or $2300-2600 for LSD... and that's on the low side still.
For mounts, you can go el cheapo for $250-300 or do it right and go Hasport for $600-650.
For shafts, DA ones work or go bling aftermarket performance ones for $350+
And then labour... most shops charge $1000-1200 to install the engine, wire it up, cut up your shifter hump, mount an Accord/Prelude shifter console, run the shifter cables. Then after all of that... I'm not up to date with H22 swaps, but I would assume you need to run a new line for PS and it's probably a bitch to keep A/C.
For $1000... you could probably get a B16 longblock and mate it with your LS tranny haha. If you're getting an older B16A OBD0 engine, it'll come with a cable tranny... but, why? haha
NORMAL LEGIT Price for a complete H22 is $1800-2300 for non-LSD or $2300-2600 for LSD... and that's on the low side still.
For mounts, you can go el cheapo for $250-300 or do it right and go Hasport for $600-650.
For shafts, DA ones work or go bling aftermarket performance ones for $350+
And then labour... most shops charge $1000-1200 to install the engine, wire it up, cut up your shifter hump, mount an Accord/Prelude shifter console, run the shifter cables. Then after all of that... I'm not up to date with H22 swaps, but I would assume you need to run a new line for PS and it's probably a bitch to keep A/C.
For $1000... you could probably get a B16 longblock and mate it with your LS tranny haha. If you're getting an older B16A OBD0 engine, it'll come with a cable tranny... but, why? haha
#22
if you plan on going with an itr motor in the future why bother wasting your time and money on another motor? unless you need to replace your current motor for whatever reasons. if thats the case and you still plan on getting an itr engine in the future, why not buy a b20, swap whatever off your ls motor and have fun with it till you have enough for the itr?
or spend the $1000 and buy a sir/type r tranny.
or spend the $1000 and buy a sir/type r tranny.
#23
Originally Posted by WildoutWhiteGSR
daily driver
drag racing
road racing
reliablity
your questions too vague
drag racing
road racing
reliablity
your questions too vague
Exactly what I've posted above plus
1/4 mile time
hp goal
how much willing to spend
#24
K listen to this i want the engine for performance and speed but yet i want it as a daily driver. right now i got a nice ls engine runs great. im buying a h22 for $700.00. my dad is installing it for me, except the wiring which i will take somwhere to get installed. the engine i am buying comes with everything tranny, ecu. what parts can i use from my ls engine, for the h22. and what parts would i need to purchase.??
#31
Well, you wouldn't need a new battery
You'll need the ECU, shifter cables, custom exhaust
That's a BIG list, I hope you realize that.
I say, do your research, figure out what you want, save your money, and do it right the first time.
Hell, if you want performance and speed... drop some cams in your LS. There are TONS of options, but you need to do your research! If you just keep asking for people's opinions, you'll never get anything done and you'll end up spending tons of cash in the end.
Honestly, getting your dad to drop in the motor for you might just cause the mechanic more problems in the end. It would be much better to actually physically DRIVE the car in and DRIVE it out, rather than having to tow it in.
Does your dad know what he's doing? El Cheapo mounts usually end up requiring some shaving and hack work since the motor is so big. Good mounts like Hasports require you to completely remove the passenger side mount and they bolt in a new mount to the frame rail.
go to www.honda-tech.com
94-01 Integra or 92-00 Civic/Del Sol Subsections
FAQ/DIY Threads
READ!!
You'll need the ECU, shifter cables, custom exhaust
That's a BIG list, I hope you realize that.
I say, do your research, figure out what you want, save your money, and do it right the first time.
Hell, if you want performance and speed... drop some cams in your LS. There are TONS of options, but you need to do your research! If you just keep asking for people's opinions, you'll never get anything done and you'll end up spending tons of cash in the end.
Honestly, getting your dad to drop in the motor for you might just cause the mechanic more problems in the end. It would be much better to actually physically DRIVE the car in and DRIVE it out, rather than having to tow it in.
Does your dad know what he's doing? El Cheapo mounts usually end up requiring some shaving and hack work since the motor is so big. Good mounts like Hasports require you to completely remove the passenger side mount and they bolt in a new mount to the frame rail.
go to www.honda-tech.com
94-01 Integra or 92-00 Civic/Del Sol Subsections
FAQ/DIY Threads
READ!!
#35
before you go through the hell of swapping a H22 motor in your car, do some research on the power potential that you can make with your current LS motor. with boost, you can easily make from 200-300hp done properley.
if you want another motor, look into the B20, when i was thinking about this swap, i got it priced out at $1600 legit installed for the B20 longblock with no more than 50,000km on it. then, you can save up, and then put a type R or GSR head on the B20 block and spank a H22.
do some research on the H22 motor. you'll find that it's not the greatest motor, due to the electronic timing belt tensioner you have to change that belt at 100,000km (you should be anyways). the H22's cylender walls are made up of a different type of metel (not sure what) but if you were going to rebuild it then you can't just slap any forged pistion in there. also, the power output for a 2.2ltr Vtec motor isn't what it should be. there's B16's, B18's, B20's putting down just asmuch hp as the H22.
just don't rush into things, i looked into swapping a type R motor, GSR, H22, B20, B20vtec, and LS/vtec before deciding to rebuild my LS. i found that for power -> dollar value and goals for my car, rebuilding the LS was the way to go.
if you want another motor, look into the B20, when i was thinking about this swap, i got it priced out at $1600 legit installed for the B20 longblock with no more than 50,000km on it. then, you can save up, and then put a type R or GSR head on the B20 block and spank a H22.
do some research on the H22 motor. you'll find that it's not the greatest motor, due to the electronic timing belt tensioner you have to change that belt at 100,000km (you should be anyways). the H22's cylender walls are made up of a different type of metel (not sure what) but if you were going to rebuild it then you can't just slap any forged pistion in there. also, the power output for a 2.2ltr Vtec motor isn't what it should be. there's B16's, B18's, B20's putting down just asmuch hp as the H22.
just don't rush into things, i looked into swapping a type R motor, GSR, H22, B20, B20vtec, and LS/vtec before deciding to rebuild my LS. i found that for power -> dollar value and goals for my car, rebuilding the LS was the way to go.
Last edited by FuzzyLS BRO; 01-27-2006 at 04:30 PM.
#36
honestly you really need to research more. If your clearly avoiding my questions on 1/4 mile time and horsepower no one can help you.
Go to www.honda-tech.com and start reading.
Go to www.honda-tech.com and start reading.
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