anyone have any experiences with them? clearances close enough?(because they only come in one size)

 

why not just go OE?

That way you can get the clearances you want...

 

Well from my experiences, if you're block calls for green, yellow or brown bearings (and only those ones) you will/should be ok with ACLs.
Personally, i like OEMs, but for $300 for all of the OEM bearings you'll need (rod and main bearings and thrust washers) you can get 3 sets of ACL's.
I've used ACLs a few times without any problems, but the clearances were all ok.

 

i'd go OE and everything, but aparantly, the ACL's are made out of a harder metal, the OEM's are twice the price, and ACL's are good alternatives. the only thing that worries me is how they are only one size, so how would clearances be? mind you the crank has been micropolished

 

well, if you just need new rod bearings, they're only $16/each (up to $20/each depending on colour) and you need 8 of them, so its really only $130.

There is a reason why our honda engines last so many miles without any major work. I'd do a little more research on bearings if you wanna go with a harder bearing.

 

^yea that's what i've been reading. however there is the option of going with the standard ACL bearing and the ACL Race bearing. i just don't want to buy the one sized ACL bearing and it be too out of spec to even use. from what i've read, they are fine, aslong as they are installed properley and within spec.

 

ya, they are fine.
If you can't get the proper clearance with the STD or RACE then you could always have your machinist machine the crank a little (personally not what i would do on a honda crank, but it is an option).

 

^for sure, i think that i'm going to go with the standard ACL's, don't really want too hard of a bearing so that my crank can take the brunt of any crap in the oil. if they are too out of spec, then i'll just grab the OEM bearing.

 

take your time plastiguaging and don't wiggle the rod caps or main caps too much when taking them apart (when plastiguaging)....don't use brake cleaner to remove the plastiguage from the bearings.

 

clearance's is all that matter

 

2 built blocks, ACL bearings in each.

Both times spun a rod bearing. Had them professionally installed as well. Spun the bearing in less than 6k on each block. 2 different builders too

OEM honda for me now! Boo to ACL

 

ACL are tri-metal like the typeR bearings LS are bi-metal. the ls/vtec how to thread on H-T uses acl. i'd go with them

 

it shouldn't matter because the crank isn't suppose to touch the crank at all except when the car is off. Any decent bearing will work, ACL, OEM honda, K20, Clevite etc


people put too much thought into buying the "right" bearing but instead should focus on nailing every clearance dead on.