I want to keep it stock but wont hurt to upgrade. The stock antenna is stuck and i plan to get an antenna like the s2000. very little rust...shud i get it fix then get rust proof..or rust proof first?...also any advice for anti theft devices?... and tips for maintaning my teg?...

 

- appropriate oil change interval.
- check for oil leaks/burns and oil level until you get a hang of the oil consumption and required top up level every so many km's
- how many clicks? may determine timing belt/waterpump change requirement
- check plugs
- pretty much everything.... you'll get a feel for what's going on if something is wrong...

 

Go to audioHeaven, talk to them about anti-theft devices. They do great work installing, and prices are good.

 

Fix the rust before winter and rust proof it I didn't last year and I had some spot I have to sand off now very minimal but the fact that last winter caused it pissed me off. That was the first time that car has seen a winter.

 

i know its pretty minor. but i like to fill my tires with nitro.
the larger molecule makes it so the tire stays at optimum pressure longer, cause' it can't escape as easily. also helps a little with fuel mileage

 

keep 'em comming guys,...car has 137km.....original engine....clutch is good...no work needed just the rust....and antenna...wat kind of oil?...and fuel should i use?...

 

I only use 91octane and 10w30 Mobil1 full synthetic with fram synthetic filter.
Not sure if you have done this but it would be a good idea to check plugs/wires/dizzy cap/rotar. Also replace the fuel filter. They are 25$ and its easy to change.

 

IMHO.... keep the car on 87 octane. With almost 20 years driving tegs, legends accords and racing I found that in some cases 91 or 94 octane is not required. It is expensive 10-15% higher. you will NEVER see that back in gas mileage.

I drove a GSR for 5 years mostly highway. I tried 91 Shell, 94 Sunoco and 87 Shell. No difference in gas mileage. Vtec likes 91 or higher for performance but it not necessary for an RS model. I rann shell 87 for 150,000kms. I just pulled the motor apart at 300,000 km to change valve seals and piston rings. My intake valves were spotless. Shell has good fuel.

Oil? If doing your own oil changes then get CTC Formula 1 sythetic on sale. Usually you can buy it for about $22.00. I suggest oil filters from Acura for utmost quality. (BTW Formula 1 syntheic is made by Esso aka Exxon with makes Mobil 1. Its decent stuff). Change it still every 3-5 km city driving every 5-8km highway.

Don't forget to change your tranny oil! I did this every 6 months or about 17,000km. It's not than fun to do but it is ncessary. Again I just used Formula 1 synthetic oil. 5w30.

Tune-up yes....

As stated above:

Dist Cap , rotor, spark plugs at the least. (remember to do this all when engine is cold). If wires look like they are from day 1 OEM then change them.

Get a Haynes manual from CTC. Ask for an Acura manual for Christmas .

Glad to see that as a new owner you are first looking at maintenance rather than the typical request for hedders, muffler, rims etc. That will all come in time.

Oh and congrats on the new ride

 

^^ x2

 

not if the experience was such as mine... lol

 

Change fluids, do tune-up(check plugs wires cap rotor filters, replace with OEM), fix your rust, then spay it, intstall a hidden fuel pump kill switch,(i did, only took a about an hour or two). 87 gas is fine for rs/ls/gs

Any pics?

[HOW-TO:] Car Security - Honda-Tech

 

Everyone's advice is spot on as far as I'm concerned. just that the honda manual transmission fluid is like engine oil but has completely different additives and conditioners in it. years ago i had a gear box with a slight whine with engine oil in it, switched it back to honda fluid and the whine was gone. that was 260 000km ago, I change the fluid every two years. Also if you put that s2000 FM antenna on you will get no stations. the s2000 has a amplifier in line. you can get a replacement mast for your integra on ebay for peanuts.

 

PIC coilovers

 

I am seriusly a noob with cars.... you guys are really helpfull and its much appreciated..
...how would i know if i need to change the spark plugs?...i want to save as much money by not going to shops and paying for labours.
I want to focus on the rust. Should i fix the rust...then rust proof it?...or just rust proof it then run it through winter then fix it....?

 

plug/wire/cap rotor is all stuff you can do on your own, really easy to check, but if your car run great now, its probably ok for now, just do an oil change, and fix your rust.

http://www.v6z24.com/mods/howto/imag...gs/plugs19.jpg