I have been having issues with starting my car lately, I could not start the car in the morning, the car would not crank, I left it for a while after that it had started. After that I got home and decided to change my distributor cap and Rotor but car is not starting now, all the connectiosn are secure but I cannot seem to start. Does the rotor have to be facing a certain way before I start? I could not get the old one off the car cranks like it is going to start but does nto come on, what should I do??? Any Ideas? Could it be the cap??

ALSO it did initially start once I put the new stuff in, high idle, then cut out...

 

have you checked your starter?
is your fuel pump alright? any leaks in your fuel lines? how are your plags? could be any number of things. Does the car turn over at all?

 

(turn Over) I believe it does if that means it is trying to start. How do I check if the spark is getting through??

 

You can buy a ignition tester, which is basically a spark plug that attaches to the end of the wire; or a spark indicator which basically slides over the wire and uses electromagnetic induction to pick up the spark.

The easiest and cheapest way, is to simply ground out your spark plug wires one at a time against either the engine block or frame. Not exactly adviseable though, because if done frequently can damage your ignitor.

 

indeed. just pull a plug. if they look scorched or damaged they proly need relacing anyways. If the car is trying to start it means one (or more, but i doubt it) of these things.

1. your not getting spark
2. your not getting fuel
3. (or your not getting air) wouldn't worry about that though, i've never even heard of that happening lol

if the plugs seem fine, try pumping the gas a little as you try to start it
is your fuel pump coming on when you try?

 

If the distributor was disconnected could timing be an issue?

 

I don't believe it would. (though i'm not the "higher authority" on that )

 

Actually, the most common 3 are:

1. Spark
2. Fuel
3. Compression

Air is normally a given; the motor couldn't really turn over if it could not produce a vacuum.

I wouldn't recommend applying throttle; your only going to wash down the cylinder walls. Instead, listen for the fuel pump priming. Turn the key 2 positions forward so all your cluster lights come on, and listen for a hum from the backseats that lasts for about 2-3 seconds.

Disconnected... in what manner?

 

There is a wire connected to it, I stupidly unplugged it in order to unscrew the cap.

 

Neone else?

 

Ne bramptonians or Saugians willing to help me out, I will cover gas and Tims money loll

 

Update**

I heard the fuel Pump so I know it is not that (thanks Goodness) I put the old Dist Cap back on (thought maybe it could be a faulty part) and the rotor is facing Up, now I dont even have any battery left (from trying to start it too much I guess... So I will try a boost tomrrow and update you. Thanks for hte input guys anymore would be appriciated aswell.

 

*update Again* Back to square one, I replaced the new Dist CAp with the old one, the battery is back up now, all it does is cranck again, maybe when installing the dist cap/rotor I missed something Vital??? Any ideas what it could be??? If the Wire that leads into the distributor was disconnected and then reconnected would there need to be any timing ect done? If anyone lives in Brampton and can help me after 5pm tomorrow it would be greatly appriciated. I will pay for any gas and treat ya to Tims, also I will add an old RX spoiler that I have and don't use (needs paint) if you can fix this for me thanks. Call me at 647 291 3417 and leave a call back number.

Nav

 

You don't need to worry about the actual ECU ignition advance/retard. The only timing you need be worried about is the actual distributor orientation to the camshaft, and the timing belt. Out of all, the timing belt having skipped several teeth would be the only drastic enough change to effect starting.

You said your car initially started, ran fine, then shut off? Did it make any sounds or do anything irratic just prior to shutting off?

Have you actually tried to see if your getting spark into the cylinders, with the methods i laid out previously?

I'm inclined to think your ignitor/primary coil are fried. Try finding someone with the same motor (vtec/nonvtec) and borrow thier distributor. Bolt it on, and see if she fires up.

I'll be in Brampton tonight for the weekend; i'd be more then happy to stop by and help you diagnose the issue.

 

That would be great if you could come by and have a look, if you have a multimeter would you be able to bing one, if not I can buy one on the way home from work. give me a call when you can or PM me and I will give you directions, I am at kennedy/Bovaird thanks again!

 

A multimeter?

I'm hoping you don't intend on using it in the ignition system.

edit: I assume you don't have a spare distributor; i can bring a multimeter, i just need to make sure the battery still has some juice.

 

Only spare parts I have right now are Dist Cap and Rotor, I wanted to use the multimetre to do the ignition test, article from Team Integra to see if my dist and ICU are ok. What time would you be able to come, im trying to get off work early.

 

The earliest i'd be able to get off is around 3pm, but i'm on base up by Owen Sound. Its about a 2 hour drive down, so i'd be able to make it for 6pm the earliest.

I can't carry much tools; i ride a Ninja.

 

What year integra is this?

 

Lol, no worries, so you live in Brampton right??? I feel bad if you are driving here from owen sound.

95 INtegra Non Vtech, b18b1 engine

 

Yes, i live 5 minutes away; Sandalwood and Van Kirk?

No worries, i get weekends off and i normally come back home.

 

Ok thanks a lot yea that is very close, just give me a call when your coming I will be home lol

 

**Fixed**

It was the distributor, it was gone, changed and running smooth. Thanks for the help everyone