got an inTaRfooler...
 

my interfooler came in..gonna hook this bad boy up to my intake and make the coldest intake eVaR! +100hp.

Attachment 21679

Attachment 21680

it's actually pretty nice, for an $88 ebay special can't complain, it's fully polished, bar and plate, nice welds. and ofcourse i just had to......

Attachment 21681

:willy:

looks sickkk fuzzz

i say you paint the fins lightly with some black...and polish those end tanks even more!!!

Sweet another car part!

^lol...

One step closer!

James

damn fuzz for $88 i'd grab that too nice find!

Looks good man

Thats going to make a serious hard parker man!:lol:

What does bar and plate mean? Did you spec it to match your turbo or how did you make your decsion (package size aside)?

He went, wow! Thats shiny, its gonna look bling when I park at 403/Dundas, I want it:owned:

thats sick..

Look at the pic of the intercooler.... and its design... "bar and plate" becomes self explanitory.... as for the size... looks like a 18" X 6" X 2.5" ish... maybe a lil bigger.... there generally good for your 250-300 hp aplication on a 4 cyl. If you were after more hp... you would be in the market for somthing along the lines of 18" x 9" x 2" ...350...400hp.. of course really any intercooler is better then none at all... smart people just aim to be as efficient as possible...


James

meh, you'll get even more power than that if it isn't zip tied.....

fuzzy ball watch out for those ebay I/C they often end up using poor poor quality cores and the welds arent the greatest. But then again u got it infront of you for viewing i dont. Make sure it doesnt leak.

he has a 2.5 inch core?? i think he will be fine with 300whp.. if he went over that and wanted to keep that intercooler without getting a big ginormous one he could always tap into the hard pipe and run a mixture of alcky/water injection too cool temps and reduce knock....Least that way the car wouldnt pull any timing and hed still be maken the big power.

Well that's the thing. Bar and plate design is not self explanitory to me and I work for an automotive charge air cooler manufacturer. I noticed that we don't have a product like this. I searched on it and found that it's a superior (and more expensive design) product compared to the fin and tube style that we make. Totally different construction and most likely difficult to braze. Core or package size could be used as a rule of thumb but really only important when fitting to the car. If you really want to be "smart", it's the pressure drop curve you should be looking at when choosing an intercooler for your set-up. It would just suck to have your intercooler acting as a horsepower/air flow bottle neck when it doesn't need to be. You never know what kind of turbulators they're using inside.

**www.are.com states**

Not all Chinese intercoolers are created equal. I can not stress this enough ! They do not come from the same factory. There are at least 8 factories that have contacted us with total different addresses & then there are different named companies within these addresses, which is how some flaunt the copyright laws that western compan - ies must abide by. A couple of factories make very good units, some are okay, & some are downright bad. To complicate purchasing further, some size intercoolers from the same factory are good & other sizes bad. How do I know this, we tested some 75mm units from an importer, which came up good in all aspects & unfortunately for us quite good in a couple of aspects, so they represented excellent value. We have sold a few of these without one complaint. They also imported some 90mm & 100mm intercoolers from the same factory. After getting some returned with vocal complaints because power output & response dropped when these were fitted (often replacing a 75mm unit), they sent one each up to me for testing. Just looking at them showed a close fin pitch. Results are listed below. We are talking all bar-plate construction with these imported intercoolers. The sad part of all this is there is no way of accurately listing who's who, most factories will stamp any name onto there product!

Intercooler - Size Type Flow Rate
Chinese 600x300x90mm Bar-Plate - 3" inlet 299.3 cfm
Chinese 600x300 x100mm Bar-Plate - 3" inlet 330.9 cfm
ARE-610x302x91mm Tube-Fin - 3" inlet 471.4 cfm
ARE-610x302x91mm Tube-Fin - 3" inlet 493.3 cfm


The above information shows that chinese bar and plate designs are notably more restrictive (higher pressure drop) than tube and fin designs when the same core dimensions are compared. Before someone says it, I know lower pressure drop doesn't necessarily equal horsepower, heat transfer tends to increase with pressure drop. Long story short - I'm personally not sure how to find the optimial intercooler specs for a given set-up, that's why I'm asking how Fuzzy spec'd it out.

FYI a photo of bar and plate design is attached below
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...arandplate.jpg

Sorry for the novel. Btw, nice build Fuzzy.

size is as follows:

Overall Size 27"x6"X3.5"
Core Size 18"x6"x3.5"
2.5" Inlet & Outlet
3" Thick Core

as for pressure drop: 1~4psi@35psi; 0.2~0.5psi@15psi----my goal for this whole build is only 300whp, which is on the consertivite side as i'm using an ample turbo and have forged internals. 300whp should not take me more than 15psi with a good tune so a 0.5psi drop is not much to give.

as for the welds on it, i was definatly not expecting them to be this nice, for freakin $88 i was expecting alot worse. however once i saw them i did realise that i got a good deal on the intercooler. no doubt, if i were to aim for 400+whp, i would have gotten a name brand cooler, and as FrostyO said, if temps are still too hot (which i highley doubt they would be) i can always run a water injection kit. i think that this intercooler really suits my build well; hell i probably checked out 100 of them before i bought this one.

Fuzzy, I might be delving too deeply into this but did they supply any pressure drop numbers as a function of flow?

These are the important numbers. It is possible to have 15 psi in and very little flow. The dp numbers that you report seem a little low. Keep in mind that these numbers may be results of pressure drop tests perfromed with no air flow through the cooling side of the cooler skew the results in their favour. Remember as charge air passes through the channels and cools it becomes more dense and results in higher dp's. So with little cooling occuring the pressure drop numbers may be artificially low. Ideally you want to see a graph of charge air velocity versus pressure drop at an ambient cooling side air velocity (to simulate driving conditions)

if anythingggggg its might not be shiney buh i have a intercooler here :P
that will work great.

my stock one. buh its not pretty or polished. could paint it radiator paint black. buhhhhhhhhhhh u know incase u ever wanna test n see a difference if there is any... the one u bought it might outperform it anyways whi knows.

fuzzy wuzzy was a pshhhhhh

well if my car is detonating once my boost setup is finished, then that will call for a new intercooler, however i highley doubt that i would be. alot of ppl on honda-tech use this intercooler on 400+ builds with no problems at all. you can cheap on some parts of a boost build i.e intercooler,BOV, however in other places you will want quality parts i.e manifold, wastegate, turbo.

dont cheap put on hte bov. most knock off bov's are leaky leaky pieces of ----.

lemme know what flange you are running on your UHP and i will keep an eye out for a BOV. i just ran through a greddy rs and now i gotz a HKS i picked up for 120.. the new style one that has no adjustment nut yay!
both were used of course. i ended up selling hte greddy flanged JMP pipe i had n bought one with a HKS flange so i got a new BOV. and fuuuzyyy wuzzzzy T CLAMP all your IC pipes dont use those regular clamps. with ur 15psi ur probably gonna pop off the hose. so buy some nice T clamps. i might have some 2.5" once still left i will check :)

i also have hoses
T connectors
and lots of gasket maker and loctite on hand :P

for 88 bucks thats a great intercooler.......

well i'm not going for that cheap $25 ebay BOV. check out www.blaastperformance.com i'm grabbing a BOV from there and welding it into the intercooler piping, i also found a company on honda-tech, T-bolt clamps for $3/ea and silicone couplers for $6ea; so i'm going to order in a butt load of those. anup, what did you do with the greddy BOV? did you sell that or just the pipe?

T bolt clamps... 3 each..... ----.. pm me the site pretty please?


James

sorry, $3.50ea

http://www.hondamarketplace.com/zerothread/1336590

site: http://www.lsdmotorsports.com/merchant2/

Is there a need to upgrade your engine oil cooler? What injectors/fuel pump are you using?

^i don't have an oil cooler, (LS motor's don't come with one), no real need for it. as for the fuel setup, RC 750's, walbaro 255lph intank fuel pump, AEM fuel rail and regulator with SS lines/AN fittings.

the greddy i sold with the UHP jsut last week.. i never had it on the car, the first bov i had on the car with just a . its was liek a block off plate that had a hole in it to vent air. it went inbetween the housing and the stock surge valve.

weld away :D
if my gay TD04 wants attached to the stock manifold i could give you that easily holds 15psi to redline.