When using a feeler gauge for the valve lash adjustment, can you combine the 0.004 inch leaf with the 0.003 inch leaf to get 0.007? I looked everywhere for feeler gauges that had a 0.007 inch thickness, but to no avail...

Combining the two thicknesses does make sense, except for the minute space that will inevitably form when overlapping 2 leafs... is this distance negligible though?

Also, as not mentioned in the tutorials, but are there marks in the teeth that indicates TDC for other cylinders instead of 1? Or do I have to just go by the "up" stamp on the wheel?

here are some tutorials that I'm using:

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/v...alveadjust.php
http://g2ic.com/tegtips/engine/21.html
http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=485

 

thats what i did i combined .003 and .004 to make .007 you should be good just check that 8 dosnt fit and your good to go

i used a caliper to check compare using .003 and .004 and it measured .007 equivalent to .008 in the caliper which was .008

as to the markings on the gears i cant remember for sure if there were alignment marks for each position but i remember doing it with oem gears and didnt have a problem figuring the positions out i have aftermarket gears and they do have marks


btw i found a good feeler gauge with ALL the gauges at princess auto for like 10 bux
http://www.princessauto.com/tools/au...keyword=feeler

 

Yes that is what you do to get the size you need when there is not one on it.

 

the TDC only marks cyclinder number 1.

 

Hmm, makes sense- I"ll probably test using a bench vise first before using it on the engine.

Aah- princess auto- when will they hurry up and start a franchise in Scarborough?
They got a large selection on affordable tools, but what you save on the bargains, you lose on the commute to... Mississauga?

Well, thanks for the help guys! I really appreciate it!

 

Hmm, makes sense- I"ll probably test using a bench vise first before using it on the engine.

Aah- princess auto- when will they hurry up and start a franchise in Scarborough?
They got a large selection on affordable tools, but what you save on the bargains, you lose on the commute to... Mississauga?

Well, thanks for the help guys! I really appreciate it!

 

Alright, so I made a few notes to guide me through the process- I'm not sure if the notes are right though (ie. the order to adjust the valves, etc)- so it'd be great if you guys can verify the info.

Also, I read in the Integra service manual (circa 1992?) that you had to re torque the crankshaft pulley bolt to 180N.m. How is that possible? aren't you turning the crankshaft pulley bolt counterclockwise, instead of loosening the bolt? How would you tighten the bolt- by turning it clockwise? but are you not supposed to turn crankshaft pulley bolt clockwise?

 

yes that guide is correct.
and don't worry about retorquing your crank pulley bolt, theres no way doing a valve adjumstment is going to crack that ****** loose.

 

I see... hmm- I guess you'll only need to retorque the crank pulley bolt then when you remove it to replace the timing belt then...
well, thanks for the help!

 

$10 lol

 

yea- I went to partsource a few days ago and found one with all the sizes for 9.99- they decided to stock it after I went there before askin' for it...

 

I did my valves today- I pretty much followed the guide for the 92 integra,

http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=...7b0dea99851b46

except I changed the specs to fit the 91- .006 to .007 intake, and .007 to .008 exhaust.

What I did
- Adjusted it so that the smaller gauge can slide in easily, while the larger one can't slide in at all. I felt only a very slight drag with the smaller gauge. I had to loosen a lot of the valves, because the smaller sized ones couldn't slide in at all, or they only slid in after a lot of force, and not completely.

What I noticed:
- No clicking noise, but still noisy in general- it may have gotten noisier.
- A little less pickup (you don't feel the pull), but the speedometer states otherwise- I was doing 150 on the highway with the accelerator pushed less than half way, and I didn't even notice...

What confuses me/what shall I change for the next valve adjustment:
- in the guide for the 92 integra, the author states:

"This is the method that was taught to me by a coworker who's been working on Hondas since long before I was born. It's extremely simple: you want the clearance as loose as it can be as long as the next larger feeler gauge will not fit. So on the intake valves the .003 gauge should slide in, but the .004 shouldn't. On the exhaust the .006 should slide in, but the .007 shouldn't. Piece of cake."

Yet for the 97 GSR article:

"Now here is the method that guarantees that you get a good result even if you have no experience judging the amount of drag a feeler gauge should have. When you check the valve clearance specs (found on the emissions label on the underside of your hood), it will have a high side and low side. You will get the most performance by setting all your valve clearances to the low side. You also want all your valves to have exactly the same clearance. If you have this performed by a mechanic, they might not touch a valve that is within that range. So you end up with an unbalanced engine. "

Which one is it? High side or low side?
I'm going to see how it goes for now with the adjustment on the loose side of spec, before readjusting with a tighter spec. What do you think?