throttle body gasket
 

so after taking my car to the shop because i couldnt get it to idle right or find where it was leaking air from, my mechanic discovered its leaking air from the throttle body and i explained how i put my old throttle body on the new intake mani when i did the swap

there was a gasket still there but i guess it doesnt fit right

the mechanic used some silicone and got it to idle a lot better...well it idles lower but the wheel vibrates like a mofo like when ur about to stall when letting go of the clutch

it idles better and my engine light takes a long time to come on now so its almost air tight but not quite...so anyone have expiriences with replacing these gaskets or making their own gasket

i have that cork sheet stuff to cut out ur own gasket i used it b4 and works ok (used it on my fuel tank locking ring under the rear seats)

and i also have honda bond and other gasket maker liquids/silicones from crappy

or is there a perfect nice universal gasket i can buy somewhere??
maybe i should just buy a new throttle body

anyways i have a 90 ls throttle body i believe and the intake mani i dont kno whats its from its short on my b20 and fits in the DA...and i dont think it has an fitv the throttle is supposed to have a fitv but since i used my old throttle there is no fitv

cars r complicated

Go to acura dealership and buy a gasket for 90s tb. The gasket you buy is according to the tb not intake mani...it should always be replaced when re-installing the tb

so i bought the throttle body gasket and installed it fine after cleaning evrything up nice first and now the car idles perfect at around 700rpms but the shakes are still there...

when i let the car idle it vibrates noticeably from the steering wheel. the whole car shakes u can see the doors tremble even from the outside...it shakes like when ur about to stall but it doesnt ever actually stall

i dunno what to do to get this right anyone ever had this problem

There is a set-screw on the throttle linkage which adjusts the throttle stopper. Just loosen the small nut and turn it up until it idles where you want it to then re-tighten the nut.

It should be idling around 8-900rpm.

i have it idling pretty good its at the first line under the 1 on the rpm gauge its currently idling at about 3 quarters of an rpm...i got it to idle the same as it did b4 the swap but the engine is shaking like crazyy

i went around to a few mechanics today all of them thought it was the mounts but its not one mechanic kinda scared me and said maybe one cylinder doesnt have compression...i dunno what it is i didnt pay any mechanic to diagnose it just asked for pointers and showed them the vibration...another mechanic told me to play with the dizzy

i get the feeling its because im missing a fast idle thermo valve...my old intake mani had one but the new one doesnt. the new intake mani had a fitv on the throttle bottle but i used my old throttle body because my car doesnt have that map sensor plug for the newer throttle body...so basically i have no fitv now

does anyone know if its important or mandatory to have?

so ive been doing some research and maybe have found y im getting so much vibration...when i did my swap i installed new energy suspension poly motor mount inserts...after reading some reviews ppl have mentioned the increased vibrations after using these inserts

some ppl even turn up their idle to get rid of the vibration

i hope the vibration is from the inserts and isnt anything mechanical

^was my next thought...

I have the stiff poly motor mounts as well and at idle the whole car shakes pretty good.

I had polyurethane mounts in my EF with a b16 and it vibrated more than a girls toy lol. I raised my idle from 650-700rpms to 950 or so. Higher, but worth the much less vibration.

Ya it's the mounts for sure been in cara that have them and it does shake like crazy.