thinking of some mods for spring.
 

hey guy's whats up I just need some help with what parts to choose. I would love to keep my car reliable yet more power.

So heres what i need to know a setup for my b17 a1 motor

this is what I need.

cams- I want more agressive then jdm itr since i have them in my motor now and i wanna upgrade. Yet I still want my car to start up and idle ok not run like a bag of ass and cause me problems

retainers and valve springs- itr or aftermarket skunk 2 or buddy club. crower etc. Im not gonna rev past 9000.

intake- i have a cold air generic. should i switch to a password jdm cf whale dick intake.

skunk 2 intake manifold. can i keep my gsr throttle body- if i dont upgrade it will my car run like ----.

what kind of cam gears can i run? skunk 2 5 bolt design. I heard aem ones slip on the teeth and then can cuase your motor/head to be toast. Heard storys on honda tech. I need to know which ones are safe to buy.

pully. aftermarket crank pully? or a ctr.

and if i got the money port and polish depending on how much that cost im gonna use my stock valves for now.

then eventually in years to come build my block.

any info guys is greatly appreciated. Thanks

i know i know tuning.. im gonna get my car tuned at -------- .. can i tune my car about 2 months after i install everything or does it have to be rite away.. and how much dyno time would you say is required.

honestly man, do you ever research? or just go on boards asking what parts are good to put on your car without knowing what the hell they do? you make one of these posts every month :willy:

haha fuzzy i research man im on the forums all the time when im off work researching my gf has to kick my ass off lol. I know alot from reading different posts,info etc. I just dont know alot about building a strong reliable motor. If im gonna spend the money then i wanna know a safe and proper way of doing it.. With what parts i need, tuning. ok thanks.

for valvetrain i vote omni or Rocket Motorsport Gen 2 b/c they've got nicer lower spring rates (which equals less valvetrain wear and will last a long time) but can handle some pretty big cams (almost anything you can throw at it...almost).
Cams....depends on where you want your power. You said stock idle, so something stage2 ish that has stock(like) primary/secondary lobes (skunk2 stage2 or Blox B's come to mind).
Intake....IMO a cheapie SRI (or CAI) with a good k&n filter is all thats necessary.
Intake manifold....i'd grab an AEBS manifold with a hondata/fakedata intake manifold gasket. The AEBS is cheap and makes wicked power.
I'd run any cam gears with 4+ bolts.
I'd run a stock crank pulley (or CTR if you don't have power steering or a/c). Or if you have the money a fluidampner, thats the only aftermarket crank pulley i'd ever put on a honda.
I would also HIGHLY recommend milling the head (like .020" or .030") to get the compression up a little bit, to get the most out of whatever cam you choose.
Tuning, i'd get it done as soon as you get the engine going. With different cams/higher compression its really important to get it tuned, you're changing the amount of air going into the engine, now its important to deliver the right amount of fuel and spark at the right time (ignition timing). This is important for many reasons....first of all being safety and reliability, then to get the most power possible and the best gas mileage.

thansk so much z man.. is there any reputable shops that dyno tune in niagara hamilton, halton region?

found a set of crower stage 3 cams valve spring and retainers and crower cam gears a pakcage... will this be too agressive for a stock block..?? if i throw it in my head.. the head will be built besides the machine work, for ex port and polish, 3 angle valve job. I need a SICKO setup to be a daily driver and allow me to start my car up and have no problems. My only concern is with aftermarket retainers and valve springs such as skunk 2 or crower they dont last long. I hear like 5000 to 10 000 km then they wear and tear and a valve could drop at anytime. = my motor blowing up. lol.. any info plz share.

also how much to do a port and polish on my gsr head.

a good port and polish is like $700-1000.
Crower stage3 would be way way way too much cam for a stock block.
With stock compression i wouldn't really run anything other than some CTR/ITRs or other stage 1. With a stage 2 cam you'll need more compression (this is why i said mill the head). Too big of a cam will actually hurt performance. Crower stage2 is a pretty big cam and likes high revs (last car i tuned with crower stage2s was a 13:1 2L gsr, made wicked power all the way up to 8700rpms).
I'm in hamilton and i do tuning. I use DL motorsport in burlington for the dyno.

ok well ill pm u this spring time. or add me on msn at droppedgsr@hotmail.com