Required Guidance With B20 Vtec Build
 

Hi guys well my to-do plans with my b18c1 have once again changed. I have decided to go All-motor B20 Vtec build for the daily drivability of my car and the smoother power/ torque curves over boost.
Currently I have a GSR engine and am looking to get the B20B JDM bottom end built. This is what I have planned:

B18c1 Head - port/polish, skunk2 cams, cam gears, retainers, ITR valves, headers, exhaust, rc 340cc injectors, OBX R ITB or skunk2 pro im, blox 70mm tb, cold air intake.

Another question is wether it is more worth my time to buy a set of OBX R ITB over doing custom intake mainfold, tb and intake.

B20B block- sleeved, bored to 84.5 mm or 2.2l, longer eagle rods, pistons, 92mm crankshaft, lightened pulley kit, toda timing belt, type r oil pump,

For the ECU it will be a p73 type r with the hondata S300 and obd2 to obd1 harness.

Eventually i will also equip the setup with the b18c5 LSD tranny and linkages.

My question remains to all the experienced engine builders and those with experience on b20vtecs. AM i missing anything important in my spec sheet and if so what is it? WHat is your expereicnes with such a build and is it worth it in the end when my goal = Street drivable yet race lethal car.


THANKS T.I for your support

itbs if its only a track car.. tuning is gonna be off for a daily if it has itbs..
you forgot the catch can setup. you will also need a better fuel pump.
for misc. i suggest everything else Gsr for bottom.. oil pump, water pump, pick up, etc etc.
if your boring it alot i suggest block guard as the walls are gonna be really thin and you might crack it due to heat. you have to make sure that the bottom is all balanced as you are changing the weight ratios.

from what ive been told and experienced.. the simpler the better.

if you want to run a sleeved block pick up a b18b and have that re-sleeved unless you can send your b20 to golden eagle in california. if you have anyone else re-sleeve your b20 you may run into problems.

like sikkk said forget the itb's. those are deffinatly not daily driver freindly and are more of a pain in the ass to tune. i havent seen enough gains (only a slight bit in the midrange and throttle response) from itb's over a good IM/TB setup to be worth the extra cash.

you can't use a p73 for hondata, thats an obd2 ecu.

You need an obd1 ecu (p28, p30, p72) to use hondata, but even then i would use Neptune, its much cheaper since you don't have to spend $600 on the unit, then pay someone to tune it. If you go to an authorized Neptune dealer all you pay is a 1-time neptune license fee of $100 and the tuners tuning fee and you're set. Or if you're more of a DIY guy, grab their Neptune RTP board and do it yourself. The Neptune RTP board is only $399 now, so its still cheaper than Hondata and just as good (if not better) IMO.

thanks for the input T.I very helpful and ill be sure to check into neptune!