Rear LCAs??
 

Do rear LCAs change handling at all? some people say they do, some people say they dont do ---- and are a waste of money, they only look cool, what do you guys think?:S

Theyre good when you replace bushings. Can come out cheaper than buying the 3 bushings for each arm or even cheaper than buying the arm from Honda. Plus the better aftermarket brands come with Polyurathane bushings . Also some have holes for adjusting the sway bar to your liking....check the Skunk 2 LCAs...you have 3 holes for the sway bar, Polyurathane bushings and they look nooooooice
If you're contemplating on it......just dont get Blox..lool, my 2 cents

agreed!! blox makes horrible lca. my buddy had so many problems with ones he bought

The rear LCA's don't really help you but they do make it better when you get suspension. They are stronger then OEM one's and will let you adjust a rear sway bar like Vida said. They are pretty much the first stepping stone when getting suspension.

Like stated in the last two post do not get blox LCA's

haha alright thanks guys, ya i heard blox likes to chew the bushings, what do you guys know about sway bars? is bigger better?

The stock rear sway bar does close to nothing in terms of performance. You can run without it and not notice a difference. A nice upgrade would be the Type R sway bar, thats pretty much the most you would need, anything bigger like the ASR or Progress bar is pretty much over kill for daily street driving and its meant for track.

Then again...a stiff suspension can compensate for the use of a sway bar in general

save your money and just buy energy suspension bushings. i've had mine for years and never had a problem.

as far as sway bars go, direct fit ones are getting tougher to find. you can get an ASR setup (sway bar and sub frame brace). sway bars DO work, just make sure you have a good suspension to go with it.

i got a 100 gift card for a shop here in kitchener, so i figured id throw in the difference for some LCAs concidering S2 comes with the energy bushings too.
thanks for the replys guys

There's a lot more to suspension than just throwing bigger sway bars in.

Though, in short, basically for the typical street setup, a larger bar is a cheap and easy way to improve handling... to a point. There is such a thing as too big.

For an optimal race setup, I don't believe in using sway bars at all and I have the experience to back that up.

As for LCA's... The LCA's them selves all do the same job. The difference is in the rigidity and the bushings. The stock stamped steel plate LCA's are more prone to flexing than an aftermarket machined aluminum piece. The bushings make the bigest difference though. Just changing the bushing in the LCA's alone will make a bit of a difference. Changing ALL the bushings will make a HUGE difference.

With aftermarket LCAs it almost looks like they hang down more in pics then the stock ones, i duno maybe its just the color of them ------- with my head lol

Is yonaka lca good

haven't heard anything about them.

It looks that way because people have their cars lowered with them,and so the lcas look lower. If you're worried that youre gonna hit your lca..dont worry you wont.

Yonaka is just a bootleg brand. They tend to copy most manufacturers. Quality isnt as great.

Oh ok coz i spoke to the guy from a site he said yonaka is better than skunk2

Yonaka has been around for a short period of time... skunk 2 has been around for 15 years. I would trust skunk 2's stuff better.


Plus...Yonaka lcas look pretty cheap in my opinion. Also, the Skunk 2 lca's at least have the extra holes for the Sway bar.


Yonaka

http://stores.mengmotorsports.com/im...naka%20LCA.jpg


Skunk 2

http://www.weaksauceparts.com/pictur...lca_colors.jpg

Rather go with a brand thats been out longer...and I havent heard anyone having issues with the Skunk 2 bushings.

Skunk2 FTW.

Unless your into racing or tracking your car hard-core, the multiple sway bar holes on the skunk2 LCA's are a useless feature and I wouldn't make that a reason to buy them over another brand.

I wouldn't always judge by the brand alone. I've seen cheap-brand components out-perform many big-name components many times in various circumstances. Though I would trust skunk2 over yonaka, only because I know the skunk 2 units are very good. Try to find part or product reviews if you can. If you can't find any, chances are it's not a popular or very high quality part.

Of course the guy will tell you yonaka is better than skunk2...lol. From just looking at them, I'd advise otherwise. The skunk 2's are probably the best for the money.

Also, lowering your car is for general conformists...lol ;)

really nb question...but when purchasing lca's they come in pair correct?

^^^ yes sir.

I agree with almost everything you say, but your last statement :naughty:, a lower center of gravity is always better in almost all cases where speed and handling are concerned. MOST people just don't do it properly, and just buy lowering springs and put them on, without considering spring rate, or what type of struts to use with them, and then forget to address the chamber that comes with lowering a car.

Lowering is always a benifit if done right. :yeah:

MPR will school you in a sec^^^ wait for an informative post!

The reason I said what I said was because most people just slam their car for the looks and think it handles better because there is less body roll and the springs are stiffer. What they don't take into consideration is spring rates, dampening, tow, camber and overall suspension geometry.

Lowering the center of gravily alone, will not necessarily increase the handling. What I am saying is that the other factors like spring rates, dampening, suspension geometry, camber etc, are MORE important and have more of an effect on handling than center of gravity, alone.

There's also something called practicality. Hitting the bump-stops and scraping while driving over pebbles I find anoying and totally unnecessary. Your car does NOT NEED to be SLAMMED to have optimal handling. What it NEEDS is proper spring rates, dampening, camber, geormetry etc. Yes, lowering the center of gravity helps. I'm not arguing that. I agree with that. It's a fact. What I am saying is that there is a reasonable limit where a vehicle becomes too low, and that's what I'm saying is unnecessary and not practical and CAN HARM or DEGRADE the handling to the point where if you took it on a track, it would be outperformed by a car with a higher stance and proper setup.

I'm not arguing with you, I agree with you, but just wanted to explain in further detail. :yeah:

You know me too well... :lol:

^^^^lol, I agree with everything you said, just not the whole conformist line, and wanted the whole explaination but didn't want to type it.

Ahh ok. lol The conformist line was my little joke. How many people lower their car for the looks? And how many for handling? And how many of those who want better handling actually setup the camber and spring rates etc properly? Not too many. Only the hard-core people who use their cars for autocross/tracking etc and are competitive.

That was my point. Most people lower for the looks...Conformists. :P

The whole idea behind my setup was to improve handling AND make it more practical for where I live and drive on a daily basis. As a result, compared to how my car handled before when it was lowered; I raised the center of gravity and actually improved the handling at the same time (not because of the higher center of gravity, but because of the more ideal suspension geometry and spring rates). Proof that proper geometry and setup is more effective than just lowering the center of gravity with the incorrect geometry and setup. That's all I'm saying.

I had a big response but my browser crashed will repost when I get home.