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J's Intake
I already decided to get the J's cf intake for my integra.
my friend. (who've never driven honda before) says CAI is way to go im making BIG mistake and i will lose hp in the high end and gain only a bit in the midrange. which kinda makes sense but i disagree it is a big mistake what do you guys think? I think it would be more balanced out mid power range and save more time on corners and wouldnt be able to tell power loss on high end rpm. |
well your wrong. The AEM intake CAI is the best intake for the Type R.
The J's Racing gives you throttle response. In the end it doesn't matter it's just a intake. |
i'd stick with the J's because you get better throttle response and the slight power gain is in the midrange.... where honda motors need it
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Originally Posted by ednyboo
(Post 142358)
I think it would be more balanced out mid power range and save more time on corners and wouldnt be able to tell power loss on high end rpm.
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^ lol me ESL la. relax
yeah i thot similar to buff4prez yo~ by having better throttle response in mid range mite be better for a honda car |
do it up!!
but i'm probably going to go with the CAI |
The red line is the J's and the green line is the AEM
http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/7969/f4aff61dzf9.jpghttp://img155.imageshack.us/img155/628/f4aff61d2xt2.jpg found it on honda-tech..according to this graph. i think CAI is better overall and better for tracks.. J's bit better for street driving.. |
Originally Posted by WildoutWhiteGSR
(Post 142365)
well your wrong. The AEM intake CAI is the best intake for the Type R.
The J's Racing gives you throttle response. In the end it doesn't matter it's just a intake. The AEM CAI isn't the best intake for ITR. Mugen is! I would rather have the J's over the AEM. Better throttle response with the J's, looks better too! The AEM gives you a top end gain and noise at the expense of your low end and mid range. Not a good compromise. After switching to the Mugen from the AEM, I noticed a huge increase in my bottom end and mid range, and still retained my top end. much smoother power band, and just a little louder than the stock box. An expensive piece, but will definitely put your intake worries to rest. |
Thank you for searching for once.
This graph is also posted in the preimere section. Now think about this, when your actually racing/spirited street driving. How often are you at 3000rpm? How about when you shift at redline? Does the needle drop all the way back down to 3000rpm? No. The only good thing about this intake is for those the shift around 5000rpm naturally on the street. But when your talking about actually racing, straight line/auto-x/road race, your rpm's are never that low after you've initial moved off. So it's point less to try and gain "midrange" if for the times you actually need to get going your never at that rpm range. |
Originally Posted by DirtyDiper
(Post 142465)
The AEM CAI isn't the best intake for ITR.
Mugen is! I would rather have the J's over the AEM. Better throttle response with the J's, looks better too! The AEM gives you a top end gain and noise at the expense of your low end and mid range. Not a good compromise. After switching to the Mugen from the AEM, I noticed a huge increase in my bottom end and mid range, and still retained my top end. much smoother power band, and just a little louder than the stock box. An expensive piece, but will definitely put your intake worries to rest. The Mugen is a great intake, but only because of the velocity stack on it. Add a velocity stack to the AEM intake and it works just as well as the mugen without the cost. You don't loose any low end with the aem. It just doesn't make a noticable difference down low. Besides the powerband width of the j's racing is only from 2500rpm to 3500rpm. Let me know what type of racing you do since you seem to race at that low of a rpm. |
I'm getting the J's Racing Cold air chamber from the AP1 and mod it to fit my engine bay. It basically does the same thing as the Moogen by enclosing the filter and grabbing air from behind the passenger turn signal. Then add on a velocity stack and you're set. Better throttle response than the moogen and colder air now. Don't quote me on the chamber from the AP1 but it's on the wall at Speedstar but it'll fit the DC2 regardless.
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^that is a good idea Erick, but I don't think i wanna spend that much money on an intake. I really wanted to go for J's, but if a J's intake owner is not satisfied with it and add a chamber to it, i should just go for a CAI in the first place-0-
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Having tried both the J's and AEM (3 Inch) on my car I prefer the J's because of the throttle response. My butt dyno says that they dont "feel" any different than each other, the results you will see on the dyno.
Its been well documented on HT that the AEM outperforms the J's, if you search in the ITR forum you'll find your answers there. With that said, Im still waiting for speedstar to call me back so I can pick up my J's... |
^^ JDM parts -----! :D
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Originally Posted by Blue Dragon
(Post 142511)
^^ JDM parts -----! :D
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Originally Posted by ednyboo
(Post 142503)
^that is a good idea Erick, but I don't think i wanna spend that much money on an intake. I really wanted to go for J's, but if a J's intake owner is not satisfied with it and add a chamber to it, i should just go for a CAI in the first place-0-
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AEM or SRI with BPi stack > J's
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Originally Posted by WildoutWhiteGSR
(Post 142466)
Thank you for searching for once.
This graph is also posted in the preimere section. Now think about this, when your actually racing/spirited street driving. How often are you at 3000rpm? How about when you shift at redline? Does the needle drop all the way back down to 3000rpm? No. The only good thing about this intake is for those the shift around 5000rpm naturally on the street. But when your talking about actually racing, straight line/auto-x/road race, your rpm's are never that low after you've initial moved off. So it's point less to try and gain "midrange" if for the times you actually need to get going your never at that rpm range. Most people buy an intake for increased power and driveability on the street. Not only for when your redlining ure car every second...lol |
Originally Posted by Torqueless_In_Toronto
(Post 142519)
How many people here actually race? And of those who does it on a regular basis?
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Originally Posted by Torqueless_In_Toronto
(Post 142519)
How many people here actually race? And of those who does it on a regular basis?
Most people buy an intake for increased power and driveability on the street. Not only for when your redlining ure car every second...lol |
Originally Posted by Stealth1
(Post 142517)
AEM or SRI with BPi stack > J's
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The J's is a nice piece, Great throttle response.
I like the AEM only thing i hated about it was always having to clean the filter. Dyno numbers are nice but really with the car not moving and the hood open how can you really measure the gains? Just get whichever one makes you happy. |
i had a j's and sold it, then bought another one. the throttle response is noice.
also makes your engine bay look pretty! if you have 400 bucks to burn, i say do it up. |
In the end it's still a intake. No matter which one you buy.
Stop focusing so much on it, you won't notice much difference especially if your don't tune after. If your after real power look elsewhere. |
lol. i had this conversation with my buddy who has an itr.
me: do you have cai or short? friend: short me: why dont u use cai? friend: why would I? me: than what do u have now friend: AEM CAI friend: but i only use half. me: than why don't u use J's instead of half of aem? friend: because i sold the J's i thought i'd share cuz i thought it was little funny but yeah he uses half of aem with velocity stack |
Originally Posted by WildoutWhiteGSR
(Post 142582)
In the end it's still a intake. No matter which one you buy.
Stop focusing so much on it, you won't notice much difference especially if your don't tune after. If your after real power look elsewhere. +1. if you want your car to breathe better, look into a set of cams, port work, good header. you'll gain alot more from a quality header than an intake. :wtf: |
^ yeah that is true tho.. its only an intake.
but still little things add up and mite end up the best ! lol........ |
whether you search for power elsewhere or not, a fine tuned aftermarket intake system will net good power over most, if not all, conventional intakes. a good intake system is just as important a factor in power production as a quality header, I/M, cam, tuning device etc. not trying to sound like a dick, but, every part of the equation has its merit. Merry Xmas
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLS BRO
(Post 142648)
you'll gain alot more from a quality header than an intake. :wtf:
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rage header ftw!!
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Originally Posted by nightstick
(Post 144739)
whether you search for power elsewhere or not, a fine tuned aftermarket intake system will net good power over most, if not all, conventional intakes. a good intake system is just as important a factor in power production as a quality header, I/M, cam, tuning device etc. not trying to sound like a dick, but, every part of the equation has its merit. Merry Xmas
i'm not saying that an intake is useless, i'm just saying that there are other things more important when it comes to your motor breathing. people just look at the intake as the easiest thing to do and think that the stock intake is the drawback holding the honda motor back when actually the most restrictive compontent is the stock exhaust. merry x-mas :yeah: |
1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 21598
This header was tested on a eg with a stock b16a motor with typeR cams/intake manifold/chipped ecu. It was tested against a KAMAKAZE header because that is all we had on hand at the time.(kamakaze makes 4+hp over stock) <--- so basically a type R motor or a "poor man's type R motor" consisting of a stock B16, R cams, R IM, and a chipped ecu for proper A/F ratio. the kamakaze tuned made 153hp with 109 torque and the new header made 167.7hp with 112.2 torque. both tests were done with a 13.0:1 AFR and no other tuning. at 7500 rpm the new stainless header made 21.05 hp over the kamakaze here is an 98ITR, stock vs. the J's racing intake, mods are: JDM DC 4-1, Type One b pipe, and a Spoon N1 axle back, 96k on the motor. No tuning, stock ECU, stock timing. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v192/Flexin5/222.jpg as you can see, it made a 9hp difference compared to a 21hp difference; 25hp over stock. as for the two motors tested, even tho one's a B16 and one is a C5, the heads are both ported from factory, running correct A/F ratio's, same cams, same IM however the type R is even running slighty more compression. merry xmas :yeah: |
Originally Posted by FuzzyLS BRO
(Post 144757)
i'm just saying that there are other things more important when it comes to your motor breathing.
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Originally Posted by nightstick
(Post 144766)
honestly, you are mislead. a kamakaze is designed for nos of superchargers. you can believe what you want, and, one day you will get it. i speak from experience, not other peoples posts. i just find it beyond hilarious when i read that quote above....i guess ingesting air through a tuned intake length is of little to no importance? people have plenty to learn. no trying to argue. but, some of your comments either don't make sense or are false. lastly, no 2 dyno sheets can be compared for the simple fact that there are an infinite amount of variables from dyno testing. ie. temp, dyno calibration, alignment, tire pressure or diameter, altitude etc. i've seen 2L motors make almost 15whp for a tuned intake pipe. anyway, enjoy the holidays, playaz.
what's your point? that header still made 25hp over stock. ever see an intake make 25whp over stock? you say you speak from experience, so let's see the dyno of your car in stock trim, dyno'd with an intake, then put back to stock and dyno'd again with a header. sure you may have "seen" 2L motors make almost 15whp, but i bet none of those were stock because a stock B20 won't make 15whp from an intake. <---- awaits dyno charts. |
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...a/f4aff618.jpg
another ht dyno 3" AEM over the J's intake was on an itr with other bolt ons |
Originally Posted by FuzzyLS BRO
(Post 144820)
what's your point? that header still made 25hp over stock. ever see an intake make 25whp over stock? you say you speak from experience, so let's see the dyno of your car in stock trim, dyno'd with an intake, then put back to stock and dyno'd again with a header. sure you may have "seen" 2L motors make almost 15whp, but i bet none of those were stock because a stock B20 won't make 15whp from an intake.
<---- awaits dyno charts. and as for your earlier comment about restrictive exhausts, an oem usdm ITR cat back can support 200whp with 2" piping and 2.25" at the bends. FYI |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by nightstick
(Post 145069)
nuff people think they know it all because they saw a chart on HT. HT sucks cock. its full of propoganda, politics and bullshit.
Attachment 21592 You've offended all the H-T fanbOis on this site. They're probably stirring in their panties right about now. I mean, H-T is gospel to them. How dare you make a statement like that. :D |
what is H-T?
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Go boost. $400 is almost half way there. I've learned it cost too much money for such little gain for NA
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Originally Posted by nightstick
(Post 145069)
my point is your lost, buddy. don't talk like one part of the equation can go overlooked. every aspect of the set up is important. cams, header, intake system (length especially), i/m, c.r. etc. you are mislead, don't get angry. the fact is comparing dyno's is an exercise is futility, and you just don't overstand. dyno numbers mean nothing. i've seen people with quality headers only net a few whp & wtq more than an off shelf header, for the simple fact that every set up varies. what might improve one motor, can't be said for all. dyno's do not simulate real world environments 100%, besides the fact that all dyno's are calibrated differently. i don't need to post a dyno to prove what's real. i'm not trying to argue, its just nuff people think they know it all because they saw a chart on HT. HT sucks cock. its full of propoganda, politics and bullshit. str8 up. its just most people don't recognize this. all i'm saying is this, a well tuned intake pipe can make huge numbers on the dyno. its a fact. in the end, the point i'm trying to make is a chain can't stay togethter with a broken link.....every aspect of a set up is important, and should not be overlooked. everything plays an important role, whether it be a cai, or 14" tires. it all makes a difference. i mean, allot of people don't even know that a car with 205/50/15 will net lower numbers than a car with 195/50/15. once again, there are too many variables to compare dynos. i'm sure you heard of Shawn's magic intake?????? if not, its nothing more than a tuned intake pipe length. and more often then not, it nets very large gains across the board. why??? how about you tell me.....
and as for your earlier comment about restrictive exhausts, an oem usdm ITR cat back can support 200whp with 2" piping and 2.25" at the bends. FYI 200whp on a stock ITR exhaust? daymn, i guess companies like hytech, SMSP must be doing something wrong. not only that, but how restrictive would that exhaust be? i'm not mad, but all your doing is ranting and raving. you have no proof to support your argument. if you ask me, your the one who's lost; expecially if you think that an intake can make HUGE numbers on a stock motor. |
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