H22a???
 

hey guys, got some questions. i am dropping an h22a jdm motor into my 94 rs integra, EVERYTHING motor wise is there, shift linkages, transmission, clutch too, but I have been hearing that the front suspension must be modified too, as in cv shafts, control arms and all. Now the good thing is my h22 is already running in a 95 teg thats just a shell, but complete suspension, so i can swap everything how it sits into my shell. right? Some guy told me the two control arms/cv shafts are two diff types on either side to accomadate this motor. is this true? doesnt matter to me, because i have both sets at my disposal..insight please!!

took me 43 seconds to find these on google:

http://hondaswap.com/swap-articles/h...integra-29122/

http://www.preludepower.com/forums/s...d.php?t=308903

http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/en...-to-guide.html

EW h22. Which one?
Hope it was compression tested before you are gonna go through all the hassle to get it in there and safe for the road.

yeah..got it tested at honda..they are saying the engine is running mint..what is wrong with an h22a? safe for the road as in?

Oh Ya, thanks XN for the info..seems to me that this swap is very costly when you factor in the motor mounts, suspension etc. I got the whole Teg witht he h22 for $400 not running, an ignition switch later is was fine. Bought another teg to put the motor in for $400, so Im only in for $800, plus $300 for my jdm front end..i think im ahead of this!

well im not a big fan of h series engines to begin with. They use the FRM sleeves which tend to wear off and rings cannot seal properly causing compression loss and insane amount of engine oil being burned. To top it all off even when i did a swap with f20b in a 5th gen prelude there was no way of taking harmonic balancer off while the engine is in the car. Therefore timing belt swap is impossible even in a car that is supposed to have that engine. Just too big for the engine bay and doing anything is a pain.
BTW the f20b is just a destroked h22 which uses the same cast for block/head, so from exterior there is no difference between the 2.
The reason i brought up compression testing is because of the sleeve issue. From my understanding, the FRM sleeves are not serviceable and you cannot bore them to correct the sealing issue. Therefore it must be resleeved which is very costly. Replacing with the same sleeves would run you around 500 or so, to get cast iron sleeves like darton I believe Gord Bush charges around 1000-1200$ and then you still need new gaskets/seals and all the labour to get everything assembled.
just my 0.02

thanks, no im looking for anyone to give me insight whether positive/negative because I am new to this, but im not being charged for labour either, my uncle has a shop. he is taking the stock rs motor for free, and dropping my h22 in there. so its pretty easy for me. worst case its a $1200-$1500 build for me including my shell, so i think its pretty legit and something to try because I hear the h22's pull hard in a teg, and im pretty excited to see how it runs..only after that i am moving towards paint, suspension, wheels and some mild performance upgrades..

Well in that case, drop that slut in there and put her to work! If you don't have to deal with any of the install then all you gotta worry about is ripping it too much and waking the oil eating demon that is inside that engine.

HAHAHA couldnt have said it any better

Haha, aww man, so what should i do? be changing oil every xxkm??

Has little to do with the oil, it has to do with the bottom end of the engine as far as I know. As Martin said, the sleeves are weak and wear out eventually.

see the problem is the sleeves are made of "fibre reinforced metal" versus iron cylinder walls. the FRM wear down a little faster than iron ones, but its more the fact that they can't be bored out at all.... so thats really wear the problem lies. in other words, the walls "pull away" from the rings letting oil pass through, were as in other motors, the rings would wear down causing oil to burn, not the walls.

Just realize that it will happen... not much you can do other than regular maintainance. Its like boosting your car and saying "what can i do to make sure nothing ever breaks?" It'll happen after time. The more ripping you do, the faster it will...

they should complete the swap today..im also hearing that the next thing to do after a fluid flush, oil change etc is concentrate on suspension due to the extra power? any suggestions on a suspension setup..ive seen itr shocks/springs set with rear control arms, and front forks for $150. some questions:
Is the itr set up sit lower than a stock teg? if so, by how much? b/c i want the car to sit a low, but not dumped..
should i still look at aftermarket control arms due to them "supposedly" being lighter?

If you will be using a prelude transmission, dont worry about going anywhere too fast. The gears are quite long and weird. My choice would be to get the h2b kit and run a GSR/ITR transmission on the engine.

For lower control arms, i would say only get rears since the bushings in yours will be toast and its just cheaper to buy s2 lcas than replace all the bushings. For the front you dont need to do anything, just check the endlinks on the sway bar.

Suspension wise, koni yellow with eibach sportline springs would be my choice but it will put you quite low. how much of a drop are you looking for? what rims will you be running? If you got some cash to burn get full coilovers and you'll be able to set whatever height you want.

it has a brand new gsr trans, dont know about rims yet, they will be 15s for sure tho..yeah i saw some eibach setups for about $500 on the net..thats not bad..i would like the wheels and fenders to have about 1inch between? ive had super low accords nd stuff before..dont want to get into that again..but this is not my daily driver..its going to be in the garage 5-6 days a week so i dont know yet..

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$490 for this kit...