Bleeding bolt on b18b1
03-17-2010, 12:09 AM
#1
There's plenty to do outside my room but I choose not to!
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Bleeding bolt on b18b1
Please dont post unless your 110% sure.
Where is the bleeding bolt on a OBD2 b18b1. for coolant.
Is is this one
Also what size is it
Where is the bleeding bolt on a OBD2 b18b1. for coolant.
Is is this one
Also what size is it
03-17-2010, 01:11 AM
#6
There's plenty to do outside my room but I choose not to!
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yea, i wanna bleed the coolant from the block and put new coolant in from my rad.
There is a bubble in my coolant sumwere. and what I was told is to bleed the whole thing.
But ill try what you said 1st. its cheaper newais:P
There is a bubble in my coolant sumwere. and what I was told is to bleed the whole thing.
But ill try what you said 1st. its cheaper newais:P
03-17-2010, 01:25 AM
#13
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okay straight from the helms manual
9. Pour coolant into the radiator up to the base of the
tiller neck.
10. Start the engine and let
it run until it warms up (the radiator fan comes on at least twice).
11 . Turn off the engine. Check the level in the radiator
add coolant if needed.
12.
Put the radiator cap on tightly, then run the engine
again and check for leaks.
when you run the engine with the cap off it will circulate the coolant the air will rise and escape through the highest point which is the rad cap.. you can quicken the process by squishing the hoses a bunch of times
9. Pour coolant into the radiator up to the base of the
tiller neck.
10. Start the engine and let
it run until it warms up (the radiator fan comes on at least twice).
11 . Turn off the engine. Check the level in the radiator
add coolant if needed.
12.
Put the radiator cap on tightly, then run the engine
again and check for leaks.
when you run the engine with the cap off it will circulate the coolant the air will rise and escape through the highest point which is the rad cap.. you can quicken the process by squishing the hoses a bunch of times
03-17-2010, 01:40 AM
#16
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Join Date: May 2007
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Posts: 622
both... mostly lower its not that huge of a deal once you actually drive the car and get it to operating temp the thermostat will open and all the air will move up youll just need to top up with coolant after it cools down again...
basicly
add coolant
run it for a few mins with the cap off squish the hosese a bunch of times till you dont really see the coolant going down anymore then put the cap on after youve driven it and let it cool down check the lvl and top up
basicly
add coolant
run it for a few mins with the cap off squish the hosese a bunch of times till you dont really see the coolant going down anymore then put the cap on after youve driven it and let it cool down check the lvl and top up
03-17-2010, 05:20 AM
#17
Now wait, Anthony how about just try driving and see if the car even overheats? This all seems pointless if it doesn't. As I said, it will go up half way up the gauge quick if you start booting it. Your DC as you explained may have this or other problems as thermostat stuck.
But it just seems pointless doing unnecessary work... Idle the car and watch the temp gauge if it even goes past half mark. Because I'm sure if you were driving with some spirit and it was at half already, it would have shot up to H very quick. So first see if there is a problem, then trouble shoot it. I called an air bubble but I was half asleep and you didn't give me enough details.
But it just seems pointless doing unnecessary work... Idle the car and watch the temp gauge if it even goes past half mark. Because I'm sure if you were driving with some spirit and it was at half already, it would have shot up to H very quick. So first see if there is a problem, then trouble shoot it. I called an air bubble but I was half asleep and you didn't give me enough details.
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